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Discussion Starter #1
I know there's plenty of threads about crower cams but I'm wondering if anyone has recently had cams reground from crower or has any insight. I've done a bunch of mods to my Tib so far but I feel like I need to do more to it until I am satisfied with modding it. I'd like to get a nice aggressive lopey cam profile. I've seen the .349 lift .210 duration profile which I really love the lope of those, but I'm looking for something a little more. It's not my daily driver it's the weekend warrior so it doesn't exactly need to be practical. I'm guessing if I had a pretty aggressive cam profile I'd want to do fuel tuning which I can probably do with a little SAFC

Any thoughts?
 

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You'll need more than an SAFC to get the most out of the cams. Plus I'd recommend porting out the stock upper and lower manifolds. What sort of mods have you done so far? I wouldn't recommend even considering cams unless you've already done the basics like Cold Air Intake and Header back exhaust. Your engine will breathe only as good as the smallest restriction. In your case the upper intake manifold is a MAJOR restriction. The stock cats are pretty restrictive as well, but those can be ported quite a bit. :)
 

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While we're on the subject of cams and sorry to butt in on a thread of someone else's, but I have a question regarding putting cams in my Tiburon as well. It's a 03 GT v6 6 speed. The mods I have done are as follows. Intake header exhaust stage 2 clutch lightweight flywheel, my question regarding cams has to do with the mileage on the vehicle and it is my daily driver. I have 146000 miles and my concerns are maybe that's too many miles for cams to be put in. with that many miles the engines pretty worn out, maybe not as much as an engine with 200,000 but would cams hurt that is my main question? can I run cams without hurting the engine or will it be too much considering the miles? I've been wanting to pull the trigger on cams since I pulled them out an 04 junker that I had bought and that's the only thing that's been stopping me, I don't want to put them in and blow my engine up due to it being too much for an old engine.
 

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To answer the second poster, a 146k engine is just too tired for performance mods. You'll need to get something built, and put your aggressive cams in the new engine.

The cam is the 'heart' of the engine. With the aggressive cams, what you're doing is programming the engine to breathe better by holding the valves open wider and for longer periods. The engine cannot utilize them in stock form. You'll need a lot of supporting work before you get aggressive cams, or all you'll end up with is a ****** idling car that stalls, sucks gas, and has a permanent CEL.

TC at NGM built a few of them. He told me they need fully ported heads with the stiffer valve springs and 1mm oversized valves, minimum. You'd also need fully ported intakes, BBTB, and a tune that allows you to shut down your misfire monitor as well as run it up to 7500 rpm, and in addition to all the bolt ons. It's not a cheap or easy build to do. NGM got $2200 for just the heads alone, plus a grand for cams, 2-3k for a standalone and tune, and then whatever else you'd need. It adds up fast.

This is why so many of us got blowers instead, easier and bigger bang for the buck, plus they sound awesome, and actually make low RPM torque (small displacement cammed NA engines do not).
 

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Thank you for the reply, my reason for asking us because I've read that some say it won't hurt the engine and some say it will hurt the engine with the miles being a factor. But also I'm not going with an aggressive cam either just one that's going to give me a little more power. I love my tib but with any engine the more you push out performance wise the life of the engine also doesn't last as long either, Kinda like a cup of water, when you start poking multiple holes in the bottom for a faster drain the faster it's going to drain out.
 

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It all depends on the health of the engine as a starting point. A poorly maintained engine with low cylinder compression is NOT a prime candidate for any performance mods especially cams. On the other hand a well taken care of engine with close to new compression will respond really well to modification. Which one you got? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I've done quite a bit, in terms of breathing I've got a cold air intake, fleabay headers, I had SSA headers but I ruined them trying to make my own y pipe so I just bought cheap headers, and a full custom 3" exhaust from the y pipe back, it's a bit big for N/A.. my turbo setup fell through lol. but I love the 3" it sounds nice. There's no cats with a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and a vibrant streetpower muffler and an electric cutout if I really want to open her up. I've been toying with the thought of making my own sheet metal upper intake with me new welder, that would allow me to run bigger intake runners and I could use a different throttle body like a big 70mm from a mustang. These are probably just dreams but maybe I'll do it. if I were to follow through with the intake then I would just P&P the lower intake since that's easy, and probably P&P the heads.
 

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Thank you for the reply, my reason for asking us because I've read that some say it won't hurt the engine and some say it will hurt the engine with the miles being a factor. But also I'm not going with an aggressive cam either just one that's going to give me a little more power. I love my tib but with any engine the more you push out performance wise the life of the engine also doesn't last as long either, Kinda like a cup of water, when you start poking multiple holes in the bottom for a faster drain the faster it's going to drain out.
To put it bluntly, dropping cams in that engine will be like trying to pee into the wind.

They were not well built to begin with, and the pistons and rings in particular were pretty cheap. At 150k, it's not anywhere near peak efficiency anymore, and probably isn't long for the world either.

You could maybe find a junkyard low-mile long block to start with, if you wanted to save money. But I would forget about doing anything to the one you have.
 

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Well I've done quite a bit, in terms of breathing I've got a cold air intake, fleabay headers, I had SSA headers but I ruined them trying to make my own y pipe so I just bought cheap headers, and a full custom 3" exhaust from the y pipe back, it's a bit big for N/A.. my turbo setup fell through lol. but I love the 3" it sounds nice. There's no cats with a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and a vibrant streetpower muffler and an electric cutout if I really want to open her up. I've been toying with the thought of making my own sheet metal upper intake with me new welder, that would allow me to run bigger intake runners and I could use a different throttle body like a big 70mm from a mustang. These are probably just dreams but maybe I'll do it. if I were to follow through with the intake then I would just P&P the lower intake since that's easy, and probably P&P the heads.
Sounds like you have a good start with some bolt ons, but that engine isn't really breathing until the intakes are ported/port matched, and you have a big TB, minimum.

As someone who adapted a 4.6L throttle body long ago, don't do it. I don't remember if I posted about it or not, but the ECU will not read the TPS probably (even though it has the same range as our stock one). The throttle wheel is way too small, which makes the car really jerky and hard to control. You're better off waiting for a NGM or other BBTB to show up.

There is probably a LOT of information on NA builds in the archives. I think Supertib was the first one with lumpy cams, and he used to post a lot about his setup. I think he may have gotten a REAL ecu toward the end.

I had a buddy who worked at MAPerformance, building turbos and porting manifolds. You could send them your parts, and they would do the work for you (you need to cut the UIM open to probably port it out. They'd probably do your heads, too.

There's a shop local to me called Cylinder Head Express, that's built several sets of 2.7 heads (including mine). I can't recall what they charge for port work, but it isn't cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sounds like you have a good start with some bolt ons, but that engine isn't really breathing until the intakes are ported/port matched, and you have a big TB, minimum.

As someone who adapted a 4.6L throttle body long ago, don't do it. I don't remember if I posted about it or not, but the ECU will not read the TPS probably (even though it has the same range as our stock one). The throttle wheel is way too small, which makes the car really jerky and hard to control. You're better off waiting for a NGM or other BBTB to show up.

There is probably a LOT of information on NA builds in the archives. I think Supertib was the first one with lumpy cams, and he used to post a lot about his setup. I think he may have gotten a REAL ecu toward the end.

I had a buddy who worked at MAPerformance, building turbos and porting manifolds. You could send them your parts, and they would do the work for you (you need to cut the UIM open to probably port it out. They'd probably do your heads, too.

There's a shop local to me called Cylinder Head Express, that's built several sets of 2.7 heads (including mine). I can't recall what they charge for port work, but it isn't cheap.
It would be expensive to get the UIM ported for sure hence why I am considering fabbing my own UIM. It would be a huge advantage having equal length intake runners and I can create a flange for the OEM hyundai TPS and IAC sensors while using the Ford throttle body. My Tib project is lower on the list of priorities so I can try to work out the intake manifold over time.

Here's a thread I got the idea from: https://thefabricatorseries.com/build-blogs//sheet-metal-intake-manifold-entirely-by-hand-p2
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/667394933729221/

You should see if you can make this dude a deal on his NGM Stage IV intake manifold. I don't think that car's too far from me.
Could really use me a high preference manifold /forums/images/NewTiburon_2014/smilies/tango_face_smile_big.png/forums/images/NewTiburon_2014/smilies/tango_face_grin.png
With some high performances on it?

That car belonged to someone here at one point in it's life. I wonder who it was?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's actually not all that far from me if I was really in the market right now maybe I'd buy the whole car, I need a good rust free body for parts
 

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146 k miles is not automatically junk. In prime conditions that engine could be less than half-way old. The inverse is it could blow any day. More info (research) is needed.

Cams help, but a chain is only as strong as it weakest link.
 

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146 k miles is not automatically junk. In prime conditions that engine could be less than half-way old. The inverse is it could blow any day. More info (research) is needed.

Cams help, but a chain is only as strong as it weakest link.
I agree.
People are always saying "don't do mods because 140k miles is too many." MEH, if the engine isn't making noises, and the compression checks out, send it.

I fail to see how modding an NA motor at 140k-ish miles is bad. I'm just thinking of my 165k miles Mazdaspeed 6; If anything, THAT should have given up A LONG time ago based on this logic. (knocks on wood)

But maybe its just me..
 

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146 k miles is not automatically junk. In prime conditions that engine could be less than half-way old. The inverse is it could blow any day. More info (research) is needed.

Cams help, but a chain is only as strong as it weakest link.

I agree.
People are always saying "don't do mods because 140k miles is too many." MEH, if the engine isn't making noises, and the compression checks out, send it.

I fail to see how modding an NA motor at 140k-ish miles is bad. I'm just thinking of my 165k miles Mazdaspeed 6; If anything, THAT should have given up A LONG time ago based on this logic. (knocks on wood)

But maybe its just me..
You can't compare the build quality between Mazda and Hyundai.

High mile engines are much less efficent, are more prone to fail, and have shorter fuses. There are still so many low mileage junkyard engines out there to be had. Throwing the time and $$ into a NA build on a high mile base engine seems like a waste.
 

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I think since around the time the first Beta engine was made Hyundai has made leaps and bounds in the quality of its engines. The Delta V6 is a very sturdy motor and has a lot of advanced features that auto makers are just now starting to include. Yes the early 2.5 and 2.7 models had issues with sleeves dropping out of the block but I attribute that to poor quality control not poor design. ;)

My last motor was a junkyard special that had perfect compression and over 100k on the clock. It was supercharged from the day I dropped it in and never failed me. It had over 150k when I finally pulled it to drop in the built motor. Compression was still damn near perfect. Its all in how you take care of things that makes them last.. ;)
 

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I had one that I bought from a yard with about 1k miles on it. I was really careful, put oil in the cylinders before I rolled it over without plugs in it, did everything right. It didn't make it down the driveway, lost compression in a cylinder and had oil everywhere.

I had those heads built, and they're on my current engine, actually. But the lower end was junk.

I'm not impressed with the stock Delta pistons. I'd boost a 140k engine for sure, because when it goes, you just take off your parts and get a different long block. I wouldn't use a 140k engine as a basis for a NA build though, unless it was completely gone through. The only people who had good results from them found ways to rev the hell out of them, and the ones that made significant gains had built heads and cams. I wouldn't waste all that on a used up lower end that could potentially let go, and ruin all the new parts in the process.
 
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