Hey guys! So this will be my DIY for custom traction bars. They are very similar to the APE traction bars. These are for increasing traction when drag racing. They will REDUCE if not eliminate wheel hop and drastically reduce torque steer.
You will order parts from 2 different sites:
http://www.summitracing.com/
http://www.aluminumspacers.com/
Parts to order from Summit Racing:
Part Name on Site:
2x Swaged Tube, Steel, Zinc Plated, 7/8 in. Diameter, 9 in. Length, 5/8 in.-18 RH/LH Threads
2x QA1 PCM Series Rod End (HAL-PCML8-10Z)
2x QA1 PCM Series Rod End (HAL-PCMR8-10Z)
1x QA1 Jam Nuts (HAL-JNL10S-1-5PK)
1x QA1 Jam Nuts (HAL-JNR10S-1-5PK)
2x Keyser Manufacturing Shock Mounts (KYS-100-200-17)
2x Keyser Manufacturing Brake Strut Rod Brackets (KYS-100-27-070-A)
Parts from Aluminum Spacers:
5x Aluminum Spacers--AS75-22-12
I choose the Brake Strut Rod Brackets because of the angle of them. It makes sense to have something can deflect off the ground if you were to hit something. I choose to get the 5 pack of the nuts because it can never hurt to have a few extra and they are cheap.I personally went with the Zinc Plated tubes. You can use any type of tube as long as you follow the length and thread sizes; i like the look and rust resistance the ones noted above have.
The assembly of the bars is super easy, it really only goes together one way and takes you 3 min at the most lol. If your curious about the spacers they are for the front mount to fit on each side of the Rod End inside the mount to create a flush fit. The rear mount is pre-assembled.
Next is to bring them to a shop where you will have someone weld them onto your car. The shop i choose is a local friend and he measured, cleaned and sealed mine.
Things to pay attention to when measuring and installing!
1. When mocking them up check full rotation of your tires, you DO NOT want these rubbing against them. In the pictures below i have 1 inch of clearance between the tire and bar at full turn.
2. Have the angle at which they are welded on, so they wont bind and cause unneeded friction and wear. See Pictures below for example angle.
3. Make sure the grease nipples are turned away from the car so you can access them. You will need to fill these as well. I had the same shop weld and fill them for me.
4. There should be rotational play with the bars. Just Firm, you should be able to turn them afterwords with your hand. This is to again prevent binding and unneeded wear.
Alright on to pictures:
This is a good picture of the angle i have them welded at. This has complete clearance and performs very well
Side view. The front Rod Strut mounts weld perfectly onto the contours of the subframe it worked very very well. I suggest following this mounting position.
This shows the sloped angle of the mount. I give credit to HoRodV6 for suggesting this
The rear Shock Mount is at a slight angle when the car is lifted. This shows about the position you want to have it welded at.
And there you have it! Custom Traction Bars! Total shipped to me for the parts was around 135. Note that I am in Canada so the cost for Domestic in the US will be way lower. Shop fees are subject to where you get them welded. I spent around 100. My total installed, greased, and sealed was 235. Very much worth it cost wise for such an improvement in performance.
My testing so far?
Quite pleased. The car seems to ride smoother, turning felt tighter as well. The biggest differences was the drastic reduction in Torque Steer and ELIMINATION of the dreaded wheel hop. I am boosted at stage 2. Any wheres from 260-280whp. My test launches and WOT pulls felt very different. I have zero wheel hop. The wheel spin is smooth and uniform. And my torque steer was greatly reduced (i can floor it without worrying I'll torque off the road ) On a side note, they have zero noise as well.
I would recommend doing this to anyone who is pushing high horsepower or loves the 1/4 mile. They make a great difference and help to put that power to the ground .
You will order parts from 2 different sites:
http://www.summitracing.com/
http://www.aluminumspacers.com/
Parts to order from Summit Racing:
Part Name on Site:
2x Swaged Tube, Steel, Zinc Plated, 7/8 in. Diameter, 9 in. Length, 5/8 in.-18 RH/LH Threads
2x QA1 PCM Series Rod End (HAL-PCML8-10Z)
2x QA1 PCM Series Rod End (HAL-PCMR8-10Z)
1x QA1 Jam Nuts (HAL-JNL10S-1-5PK)
1x QA1 Jam Nuts (HAL-JNR10S-1-5PK)
2x Keyser Manufacturing Shock Mounts (KYS-100-200-17)
2x Keyser Manufacturing Brake Strut Rod Brackets (KYS-100-27-070-A)
Parts from Aluminum Spacers:
5x Aluminum Spacers--AS75-22-12
I choose the Brake Strut Rod Brackets because of the angle of them. It makes sense to have something can deflect off the ground if you were to hit something. I choose to get the 5 pack of the nuts because it can never hurt to have a few extra and they are cheap.I personally went with the Zinc Plated tubes. You can use any type of tube as long as you follow the length and thread sizes; i like the look and rust resistance the ones noted above have.
The assembly of the bars is super easy, it really only goes together one way and takes you 3 min at the most lol. If your curious about the spacers they are for the front mount to fit on each side of the Rod End inside the mount to create a flush fit. The rear mount is pre-assembled.
Next is to bring them to a shop where you will have someone weld them onto your car. The shop i choose is a local friend and he measured, cleaned and sealed mine.
Things to pay attention to when measuring and installing!
1. When mocking them up check full rotation of your tires, you DO NOT want these rubbing against them. In the pictures below i have 1 inch of clearance between the tire and bar at full turn.
2. Have the angle at which they are welded on, so they wont bind and cause unneeded friction and wear. See Pictures below for example angle.
3. Make sure the grease nipples are turned away from the car so you can access them. You will need to fill these as well. I had the same shop weld and fill them for me.
4. There should be rotational play with the bars. Just Firm, you should be able to turn them afterwords with your hand. This is to again prevent binding and unneeded wear.
Alright on to pictures:
This is a good picture of the angle i have them welded at. This has complete clearance and performs very well
Side view. The front Rod Strut mounts weld perfectly onto the contours of the subframe it worked very very well. I suggest following this mounting position.
This shows the sloped angle of the mount. I give credit to HoRodV6 for suggesting this
The rear Shock Mount is at a slight angle when the car is lifted. This shows about the position you want to have it welded at.
And there you have it! Custom Traction Bars! Total shipped to me for the parts was around 135. Note that I am in Canada so the cost for Domestic in the US will be way lower. Shop fees are subject to where you get them welded. I spent around 100. My total installed, greased, and sealed was 235. Very much worth it cost wise for such an improvement in performance.
My testing so far?
Quite pleased. The car seems to ride smoother, turning felt tighter as well. The biggest differences was the drastic reduction in Torque Steer and ELIMINATION of the dreaded wheel hop. I am boosted at stage 2. Any wheres from 260-280whp. My test launches and WOT pulls felt very different. I have zero wheel hop. The wheel spin is smooth and uniform. And my torque steer was greatly reduced (i can floor it without worrying I'll torque off the road ) On a side note, they have zero noise as well.
I would recommend doing this to anyone who is pushing high horsepower or loves the 1/4 mile. They make a great difference and help to put that power to the ground .