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Won't these make the toe change as the arms move up and down? To me it seems that as the control arm moves up or down, the bar would pull the control arm back causing toe out. Maybe it's not enough to really be concerned about though.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I worry that it would limit normal movement of control arm
Not really it prevents the control arms from flexing not limiting their movement. (if installed correctly) Normal driving, and hard driving has not been effected in any manner.

Won't these make the toe change as the arms move up and down? To me it seems that as the control arm moves up or down, the bar would pull the control arm back causing toe out. Maybe it's not enough to really be concerned about though.
Yes it does, that being said, just dont crank on the thing and pull your control arm a signifcant length. They only need to be tight with very little play, the angle and ridigity is how they perfom, not the amount of tension they put on the control arm causing toe in/out. I tightened mine just enough to have them flush and even no more, won't really add to the effect of them anyways. When i got my alignment done after it did not effect my toe in/out. If you tightened it alot yeah it definitely could.
 
Well, I didn't mean any tension caused by the manual adjustments changing toe.

When the bar is horizontal to both mounting points it will be at it's longest effective length. When the suspension compresses or lengthens the bar swings in an arc making its effective length shorter. And I had it backward visualizing it with the subframe mounting point behind the wheel, so it would actually cause toe-in not out.
 
^ regardless if these will make your car toe in or out when your suspension compresses there is always going to be a little to in or out. shouldnt affect driveability i dont believe. if any i think it would help. brand new bushings are very firm when they are new, over time they where out and become more brittle and loose. this kinda helps that . correct me if im wrong, i just wanted throw my .10.
 
Curious as to what the potential change in length numbers might be, I sketched this up quick with a 12"radius. I think the bars ended being pretty close to 12" eye-to-eye, let me know if that is not correct and I can change it. Longer would be better. The measurements are taken and 1,2, and 3 inch marks vertical. I think for most normal driving any change would be hard to notice.
 

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Update here:

Drove the majority of the summer with these badboys on. I used them mainly with a stage 2 sniper.

I did scrape them a couple of times, this was solely on me being careless and forgetting i have now a lower clearance. Since then i have had zero issues.

For the price they worked exaclty how i wanted too and are quite happy with the end result. The mounts were very very durable and a good choice for this application.

And for anyone who has questions feel free to contact me with a PM!
 
Soo after the long time with these on... would you say they are worth the money and do you still feel the difference after all this driving
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
would the listed items work for an elantra?
I'm sure it could be applied in a similar manner yes

Soo after the long time with these on... would you say they are worth the money and do you still feel the difference after all this driving
Hmm, for someone n/a, no

Someone with f/I and a large amount of torque steer? Yes. It is only like 110 or something like that for anyone in the states so it is quite cheap.

Could you get away without it? Yeah I'm sure you could, but i noticed a good deal of stability and a nice feel with these on my car. If I had to choose wether to do them again or not, I would do them exactly the same.
 
Any thoughts on a different install point for lowered cars? Not wanting to replace stuff all the time hehe
Just from picturing it in my head I feel like you could install them at the top of the subframe and control arm since the CA points up from da low.
Lol
You'd just have to do it strategically enough so that your suspension can travel without getting stuck on the bar, and tightening the bar doesn't lift the tire seemingly lowering your car more.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Any thoughts on a different install point for lowered cars? Not wanting to replace stuff all the time hehe
Just from picturing it in my head I feel like you could install them at the top of the subframe and control arm since the CA points up from da low.
Lol
You'd just have to do it strategically enough so that your suspension can travel without getting stuck on the bar, and tightening the bar doesn't lift the tire seemingly lowering your car more.
You could def plan it out like that I'm sure. I don't take offense at all to changing up the DIY :) sometimes it takes more then one brains to get it right haha :)

Although as of right now my car is stored so I can't do any more work to it this year unfortunately
 
Man, I would die before I stored my tib. Unless it wasn't running..
Even if I had a second car to drive haha
I'm thinking trial and error is gonna be the only option here. :)
Don't get me wrong, I think the way you installed them is great in all aspects EXCEPT for the ground clearance. I'll just have to buy the parts an test, test, test. Maybe someone will beat me to it though, cause I'm broke. Hahaha
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Man, I would die before I stored my tib. Unless it wasn't running..
Even if I had a second car to drive haha
I'm thinking trial and error is gonna be the only option here. :)
Don't get me wrong, I think the way you installed them is great in all aspects EXCEPT for the ground clearance. I'll just have to buy the parts an test, test, test. Maybe someone will beat me to it though, cause I'm broke. Hahaha
Haha I get insane and brutal winter driving conditions here, super harsh on a car, so in a way it's saving the car much weathering.

And yeah I think it would be a bit more for the extended bars, but in the end not too much more monies. I mean the clearance thing isn't too bad lol, my exhaust hangs lower at one point., it was more driver error then anything.

It would be interesting to see a different method of mounting them, could always remount mine if they work better :)
 
Oh oh I see. I thought Utah was bad sometimes, but I understand how that could go. Winter really sucks sometimes. Last winter I travelled about 20 miles on the freeway to work at only 25mph. Even then it was pretty slippery if you weren't careful. Winter driving can really sharpen your skills up hahaha
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Can't wait to do mine.
Anything you'd suggest changing? Or still happy with it as is
Nope, i mean you could try different angles of placement but really they worked very well. Helped to stiffen up the suspension up front wheel hop wise.

Just make sure you mount them in a position where you can full lock your wheel and the tires doesnt hit the traction bar. Otherwise your good to go.

Also i didn't note the assembly in the DIY but its a no brainer when you get the pieces haha, but if you need help PM me :)
 
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