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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Welcome to my boost thread! Feel free to leave feedback, questions, concerns, etc!


the car is up and running!! Here is a parts list.


TURBO: Evo 8 turbo (15K on it)

02 Housing: Muse Motorsports Open Dump

Wastegate: evo 8 Turbo smart wastegate actuator - 11psi spring with MBC

MANIFOLD: Ceramic Coated DNP Tubular from Evo 8

DOWNPIPE: modified evo 8

EXHAUST: Hyundai performance 2.5" cat back

FUEL MANAGEMENT: AEM FIC

FUEL DELIVERY - 07 WRX 560CC Injectors (blue) with tiburon OEM o rings

FUEL PUMP: Bosch 190LPH

INTERCOOLER: CX racing same-side intercooler

Extreme PSI Vacuum Line

Extreme PSI IC Couplers

Extreme PSI IC Piping

Ebay vacuum manifold

BOV: Blitz SS

AFR WIDEBAND - AEM UEGO

BOOST/VAC GUAGE - AEM Analogue

autometer cobalt EGT gauge

OIL FEED: 4AN steel braided line fed from the head with straight swivel fittings - evo turbo has a built in restrictor

TURBO COOLANT - 5/16 fuel hose to/from throttle body to 5/16 barbed banjo fittings

OIL DRAIN- 10AN steel braided line

UPGRADED CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL - XTD Stage 3 clutch and flywheel

ENGINE MOUNTS - NGM Solid rear mount

SPARK PLUGS - NGK BKR7es-11
 

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24x12x3 Will be too big and your intercooler piping will need to be run all oc
very the place. Find a 24x7x2.5 and use it, with 2 90deg couplers you will be able to run piping beside the radiator on either side.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Go on www.evolutionm.net to find the Evo kit. Thats what I did and it was WAY cheaper than Ebay. Evo owners are going crazy to the rid of the stock or used parts. Find the ones you need and buy it.
Thanks for the info! Which parts other than the turbo, manifold, and downpipe are "compatable"? Any coolant, oil, of vacuum lines?

24x12x3 Will be too big and your intercooler piping will need to be run all oc
very the place. Find a 24x7x2.5 and use it, with 2 90deg couplers you will be able to run piping beside the radiator on either side.
Thanks, that's exactly how I wanted to fit the FMIC.
 

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for fuel management id go with the aem fic or if you know a tuner you could go with a stand alone ecu. and for the plugs go with cold iridium plugs. colder the better. if you stay with stock you might be able to get away with it for a while but not for long becaue under boost the plugs tend to foul up because of the unburned fuel spraying and laying on them.
Hey everyone! I've been reading non-stop about boosting my tib for quite a while now, it seems as though its an addiction! I've been thinking about doing a 'big' sort of project for not this winter, but next winter on my tiburon. My three options were bags, full paint job, or boosting it. Im heavily leaning towards boosting, so here we go! I know its a ways away, but it will give me ample time to collect sufficient funds for the project as well as collect parts as they come up on local classifieds. I have much more reading to do, as well as have many questions from boosted veterans around here.

Goal: My tiburon is my daily driver during the summer months (april - october). I want a reasonably priced build that will be reliable, and will give my daily driving a little bit of oomph. In the vascinity of 250 horsepower would make me happy. Id like to keep the build around 3500$, which from reading around here, seems very doable. My brother is a welder and works in my uncles machine shop which will be a good asset with fabbing up a down pipe and maybe some other stuff that requires welding, drilling, CNC, etc.

I will go through every part that are on the 'required' list from the stick and will present my ideas and questions. Guidance would be greatly appreciated!

TURBO: It seems that the mitsubishi evolution turbo builds are getting popular. On ebay there are evo 3 TDO5 16G turbo's available for around 200$ brand new. They have internal waste gates which makes me think that they are compatable with more manifolds such as the ramhorn style and obx manifolds, is this true? or do i need to use the oem evo manifold with this turbo?
I have also seen a few godspeed turbos, as well as mixed reviews on them. Should these be avoided?

MANIFOLD: obx, ramhorn, evo 3, and a few others seem to be available on ebay. Which turbos can be used on these manifolds? Im kind of confused with the internal wastegate and external waste gate compatability with these different manifolds.

DOWNPIPE: Brother can make one.

EXHAUST: Already have a 2.5" cat back

FUEL MANAGEMENT: As far as i know, there are 2 popular options. The AEM FIC and the SMT-6. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each of them? Which one is more user friendly?

FUEL INJECTORS: Looking at some other low-boost builds, i have seen 290cc sonata injectors used, but to my understanding, the size of the injector depends on my power goals. Pretty sure there are online calculators that can tell me the size of injectors that i need.

FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM: Im pretty sure my options are an added fuel rail or a 5th larger injector. This is where i cant fund much info and am very confused. Isn't Jattus the only company that makes a dual fuel rail kit? Whats my best option here?

EXTERNAL MAP: The GM 3 bar map sensor seems to be the way to go. Where does this MAP go? And how is it wired into the system?

INTERCOOLER: 24x7x2.5

BOV: HKS SSQ

AFR WIDEBAND - AEM UEGO

BOOST/VAC GUAGE - Find one locally

OIL PRESSURE GUAGE - Find one locally

OIL FEED HOSE AND RESTRICTOR - Where do i find these? Links would be great

OIL DRAIN HOSE - Where do i find these? Again, links would be great!

COOLANT FEED KIT - Only need this if required by the turbo, not sure which turbos need them or not.

UPGRADED CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL - Anyone have experience with a good combo that is good for up to 300hp? I dont race much, maybe the once a summer track day.

ENGINE MOUNTS - polyurethane

SPARK PLUGS - one step colder?

One important thing is that i do not want to go to forged internals. Maybe in the future but not on my first build. After the build is done i'll probably add little things such as an oil catch can, oil pressure gauge, etc.

I know this is lengthy and im not too turbo-savy yet, but I'm researching a lot! Ive read through almost every boost thread here and im half way through slow2k's boost thread. He seems to be extremely knowledgeable here and im hoping he chimes in some time!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys, the main thing that I'm confused about is where exactly I have to tap in oil/vacuum lines as well as the injector issue. Ill probably go with an aftermarket evo manifold that looks a bit nicer than stock, another member here has one.

Ill probably go with the aem FIC and get a shop to dyno tune my car for me. Ill definitely be getting colder plugs even though I only replaced mine 20k ago.

As far as the injector issue goes, do I have to add an extra fuel injector or fuel rail? I'm pretty sure I've seen setups where only the primary injectors were upgrades to around 550cc. If this isn't the case, I think I'd rather go with the 5th large injector. Anyone know how to go about adding the 5th injector?

I appreciate the input guys, the concept and understandig is slowly coming together.
 

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Don't mess around with expensive iridium plugs, I'm running basic NGK BKR7es-11 and not having any issues. I carry a spare set in the car at all times and one extra in the garage. A full set of them is worth about what 2 iridium plugs are worth. The iridium is supposed to burn hotter and cleaner but tend to foul easily, save your money.
 

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Get the oil feed from the hex bolt in either the right front or left rear side of the cylinder head, there is ample oil pressure, while hoy 20psi at idle and 50-60psi while cruising.

Here is where I found is best for oil return because under hard braking a tapped pan will allow oil to push into the drain hose, a tapped block will prevent it. Use 10an hardware for lots of flow

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Get the oil feed from the hex bolt in either the right front or left rear side of the cylinder head, there is ample oil pressure, while hoy 20psi at idle and 50-60psi while cruising.

Here is where I found is best for oil return because under hard braking a tapped pan will allow oil to push into the drain hose, a tapped block will prevent it. Use 10an hardware for lots of flow

Yeah i read about the plugs on your build thread. Does tapping into the block require pulling the engine out or how do I go about doing this? And do I just tap into the intake manifold for the boost/vacuum readings?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have to update the list because I've learnt a lot in the last little while of reading.

I found this turbo for sale locally, If you read the ad it only has 20k miles. The pictures don't show any hard-lines for oil feed/drain but I could use steel braided lines. I also believe these turbos have internal wastegates. Is this a good deal? Could probably get it for 200-250$

http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=515403947
 

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The block does not have to be removed but due to the size of drill bit and tap required the radiator and ac condenser have to be removed...costly to drain and fill your ac as well so block out would be suggested. This is the reason most tap the pan, just be sure to do it as high as possible.

If you are going to tap the intake manifold you have to take it off or metal shavings will make their way into the engine regardless of how careful you are. Having it off will give you the best work area of course, I highly suggest getting a vacuum manifold and only making one large tap into the manifold or use the breather port on the front of it since you cannot have it connected to the engine once boost is applied.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The block does not have to be removed but due to the size of drill bit and tap required the radiator and ac condenser have to be removed...costly to drain and fill your ac as well so block out would be suggested. This is the reason most tap the pan, just be sure to do it as high as possible.

If you are going to tap the intake manifold you have to take it off or metal shavings will make their way into the engine regardless of how careful you are. Having it off will give you the best work area of course, I highly suggest getting a vacuum manifold and only making one large tap into the manifold or use the breather port on the front of it since you cannot have it connected to the engine once boost is applied.
Ill probably end up doing the oil pan then, i have no interest in pulling the engine quite yet.

So one large tap in the rear of the vacuum manifold which goes to a vacuum block and then all of the accessories attach to that would work? What cant be connected while boost is applied?

well looks like a lot of useful information here. geez dave looks like we have the same car and same idea? lol
Haha pretty much! Kman Tib's build is basically the build that im trying to replicate with a few small changes here and there.
 

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I think a 1/2 tap will be enough to supply the vacuum manifold and yes, everything connects to there... External MAP, BOV, wastegate (if external), boost gauge, fuel pressure regulator if running a return fuel line.
 

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He's saying you cant use the breather port normally once there is boost as that would pressurize something that shouldnt be.
I suppose depending on its size you can use that as the vacuum blocks main source. And yes, the manifold will have several ports for you to connect various things like your boost/vac gauge.
I'd agree 1/2" should be great
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for clarifying guys!

I just ordered the books "maximum boost" and "Street Turbocharging HP1488" by Corky Bell and Mark Warner. They should be good reads and help me understand mostly everything that i need to know! A few parts should be here early next week :)
 

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Idk. If it is the same as the v6 but for injectorsyou can use wrx injectors. Not still ones cause they are lay doe. Injectors but the regular wrx ones. If it is the same thn you van get up to 1200cc ones for around 500.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Idk. If it is the same as the v6 but for injectorsyou can use wrx injectors. Not still ones cause they are lay doe. Injectors but the regular wrx ones. If it is the same thn you van get up to 1200cc ones for around 500.
Yeah i was considering the wrx injectors with adapters to fit or the ford green top 440cc injectors. Kman tib used the 440's and they seemed to be adequate for this build.
 
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