Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi to all,

Please see the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0v-KdClYxU

This sound happens within first acceleration past 3k rpm within first 15 minutes of driving. It dies out by breaking and once the car is stoped it stops.
Sometimes however, it doesn't and it sounds cut, like it might stop but doesn't really "prr -- pr -- prr -- prrrrrrrrr - pr - p" etc. Twice, including this recorded video it started with this magic sound (thus I was able to record it). Starting the car again solves the problem.

Also I got P0011 error code I had year ago but after cleaning CVVT filter everything was fine for a long time. It comes back even after clearing the error with Android Torque app.

Background info:
- 60k miles
- 2.0 CVVT (Actuator is working and filter is clean)
- regular oil changes
- new oil shell 5w40 + original Hyundai line 2 filter
- timebelt was changed 5k miles ago as well as valve cover gasket etc.

HALP PLIZZ :surprise:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,088 Posts
When did the sound start happening? After the timing belt change? To me that sounds like valve tappet noise. That could come from incorrect cam lobe to tappet clearance, non-functional VVT solenoid, and or clogged fitler as well as could be non-oem oil filter and/or incorrect oil viscosity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
When did the sound start happening? After the timing belt change? To me that sounds like valve tappet noise. That could come from incorrect cam lobe to tappet clearance, non-functional VVT solenoid, and or clogged fitler as well as could be non-oem oil filter and/or incorrect oil viscosity.
Agreed with the valve clicking noise. There's a procedure for checking the clearance in the service manual. feeler gauges are relatively cheap too. I think I picked up my set for about $10 at autozone. Harbor Freight probably has them even cheaper. Hyundai recommends you check it every 60K or 4 years too so if you didnt do that recently, its due.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hi dmdicks & Smitty.631

CVVT solenoid is not the issue!
- checked the resistance, on off operation and even put a new one in to be sure!

Not 100% sure but it started definitely sometime-ish about the timingbelt change!
I know about cam lobe to tappet clearence and will check it!

What is woriying me is that it not present more than 15 minutes or first 2-3 pulls of drive and I'm woried it is the lack of oil presure for the Cams/CVVT.
Also, I can "shake it off" sometimes by pressing the gas pedal to hi revs in neutral (again, oil pressure?).


Luv you guys! (second time helping me out :) )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,210 Posts
Sounds like an oil starvation issue. It's common to get that "diesel" sound when the CVVT solenoid is starved or not functioning properly.

Check the solenoid filter again. I would also get rid of the 5w-40 and put in a synthetic 5w-20 to see if the thinner viscosity makes a difference. Use a Hyundai or Fram XG9688 filter. The Fram costs a few bucks more but you can pop into any Wal-Mart or auto parts store and buy one.

BTW, if that's Rotella T6 5w-40 then you really shouldn't use it. It has high amounts of ZDDP and will absolutely destroy the catalytic converter if the engine burns excessive amounts of it. It's technically a diesel oil but it's also popular with the turbo'd gasoline crowd because it extends turbo life. If you insist on a 5w-40 oil, go with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-40 Euro (NOT Euro L). Only problem is that most places don't carry it and 6qts will run you around $60 from Amazon. I would stick to a 5w or 10w-30 unless you live in death valley or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
@dmdicks
Awesom advice for the gauge, I'll look for one!

I use Hyundai product line 2 filter:


@h8isgr8
- Hi mate, thanks for taking time to reply :)

Oil is this one:
http://motormech.com.sg/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/SHELL-HELIX-ULTRA-5W40-4L.jpeg

I thought of putting in a "Mobil 1 5w30 Formula" asap:
https://images.imagetin.com/micksgarage-ie/f79750a0-7/153598_2a0595.jpg

I'm afraid that some passage to head is clogged so I thought to clean the smudge with this:


I'm from mid Europe (Croatia - so approx. NY like climate) and money is not a problem, I just want to make the car running great!

Thanks again to all!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,088 Posts
Give it a try and see if it helps. Maybe the oil passage to the vvt solenoid got clogged somehow preventing it from working correctly? Or there could be a short or break in the control wires.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,696 Posts
Give it a try and see if it helps. Maybe the oil passage to the vvt solenoid got clogged somehow preventing it from working correctly? Or there could be a short or break in the control wires.
When I get a VVT/VVL vehicle in with cam codes........

Is the oil level correct?
Is the oil old or crap?

Some "short change intervals" may flush crap out.
Waste of oil and filters, way cheaper in the long run.
To me, after 40+ years working on cars. Perfect world, maybe you CAN get 8K miles on an oil change.
Maybe.
What is the cost of 3-5K oil changes vs. repairs?
Same goes for "running water" for fractions of MPG?

Your car, your decision.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,696 Posts
She's in Croatia. Extended oil change intervals are the norm in European countries. Most cars see 20,000Km (12K mile) intervals. Seems a little extreme IMO.
OK, wish the OP at least put in a region for a location.......:frown2:
Had to read the whole thread to find that tidbit......

From a machine standpoint, depending on use (many highway miles vs. lots of short trips.....covered in owners manuals..,,.), 3-5K miles is about max.

Sorta like lots of peeps wanting to get JDM engines for swaps because.....low miles.
Then again, their vehicle rules tend to make owners not give a crap on maintenance since the car is a "throw away"..

So, 50K mile JDM or 150K on a USDM?


Many brands with VVL or VVT have issues with......
Low oil
Crap oil
Light oil
Long oil changes since a sales guy stated you could
That I have dealt with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
@JMaur
Sorry for late reply, it is OCV filter on the picture below:



@Charlie-III, @h8isgr8
Thanks a lot for all great advice guys!
I change oil every 8k km at most (that is 5k miles) and the vehicle is in my possetion for nearly 2 years but I don't know about previous owner. I'm secnd owner btw and the problem started half a year ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
PS

What oil should I put for daily driving in the city (about 15 miles daily), central Europe climate (20F winter - 95F hottest part of the summer), 2.0 CVVT Engine with 70k miles on the clock?

Currently, I'm using Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 (obviously not good??):
http://motormech.com.sg/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/SHELL-HELIX-ULTRA-5W40-4L.jpeg

I thought to put in Mobile 1 5w30 on the next oil change?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,696 Posts
I run 10w-30 most of the year, may do 10w-40 in summer when doing long highway runs or pulling a 2000lb+ trailer.
My weather is similar to yours (NE NJ, USA).

Really light oil is good for very cold or when you want that last 0.5MPG.

The VVT "filter" is likely not much more than a screen. Pull it out, back flush with carb cleaner, or similar, and reinstall.
Subaru has similar on their valve actuators and pre turbo.

BTW, short trips usually fall under "severe duty" and have shorter fluid change intervals. Partly because you may never get condensation boiled off the oil, thus killing the lubrication.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hi to all, I have some bad news:

1. Run the engine flush (BG PN109E) trough the engine

2. Removed oil pan and cleaned oil pan

3.Put new 5W30 Mobil 1 oil with Hyundai product line 2 filter


ALL IS THE SAME: Diesel sound + P0011 and I'm sad as f...k :|

Anyone has something to suggest to do further?
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top