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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Difficulty : Easy
Time : 90 mins
People: 2 at best, 1 is do-able
Parts : umm a new actuator for the corresponding door
Tools:

-Screw driver, Flat head and Philips( you'll need a 0 and a 2 for the Philips)
-10 mm socket

Things that help but not necessary :

-Some latex gloves(lots of grease and lube on the actuator)
-A good flash light
-Screw Grabber (not sure what its actually called; ill show you a pic tho)

Remember it may seem complicated at times but its really not, i just try to over explain to avoid problems.

Step 1 : Remove the interior door panel by by removing these 8 screws (yellow) to get to the ones under the handle use a flat head screw driver to gently pry the handle away, there's a small slot on the top left part of it that you can squeeze the screw driver into. Once all 8 screws are out, pull the inside handle and remove the well it will slide right out then gently pull on the bottom left corner and pull the panel away from the door then lift to remove the top. Unhook all the wires seen in pic 2.



http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/01.jpg

Step 2: You should be looking at this now. peel away the vapor barrier(if you do it carefully you can re-attach it, if your like me and don't care throw it away i have no idea what its for anyway) make sure you've disconnected the wires from their components in order to remove the barrier .



http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/02.jpg
This is where the actuator is.
The two holes can be used to see and or access the two golden bolts holding the handle on


http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/04.jpg

Step 3:

Remove these 3 bolts, it helps if you have a ratchet that you can connect the Philips head to, it make this easy but if not its all muscle baby.



http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/03.jpg

Step 4 : Disconnect the wire cable that lead from the inside door handle and lock to the actuator. Its fairly straight forward the blue piece is L shaped (yellow boxes in pic) just pull on it towards you (like a door) then lift the metal part of the cable up. you can just yank the cable off the door after that.



http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/09.jpg

Step 5 : The tricky part, look inside the door at the actuator and you should see two golden brassy bars leading up to the outside door and handle, you have to disconnect those two bars. now I've found the easiest way to do this is to take the door handle off, so take your 10mm ratchet and reach up into the space where you actuator is all the way up to where the handle is and remove the two golden bolts( one is on the left and can be easily seen through on of the two holes on top of the big opening and the other is to the right of it close to the locking mechanism) these two bolts can suck the big one and i wish i had a pic for you but i cant get my camera inside. once the two golden bolts are off the handle should come free and you can now easily access where the two bars are attached. disconnect them just like the cables before (unsnap, pull) except this time you have to pull a lot harder to get them off, don't worry they wont break. here's what the connections look like separated.

back side of out side lock and handle


http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/06.jpg

two bastard bars


http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/07.jpg

Step 6: revel in your glory as you should now have a disconnected actuator, oh yeah unplug it too.... duh. you should now have a door like this.



http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/08.jpg

Step 7: Reassemble. everything basically just bolts back on in place, the trickiest part is reattaching those damned bars but the easiest way is to put the actuator in the door compartment in the general orientation it should be (don't bolt it in, you'll need the freedom of movement ) now go to the outside of the door and reattach the lock part of the outside handle next fit the lock in place on the handle( make sure the bolt holes line up) and now re-attach the handle bar and voila slide handle into place and bolt actuator in. here's a check list of things to reconnect.

-golden brassy bars to out side handle
-bolt in actuator
-actuator wires
-bolt in door handle
-cable to inside lock and handle
-reattach your vapor barrier(optional)
-wires to door inside door panel
-door panel(duh)
-screw in all 8 screws ( it really really helps if you use a screw grabber thing for the two under the handle, see pic below)
- close and test the door.



http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/aphilio/10.jpg

This DIY brought to you by the freewheeling playboy video game master Killen Villain.
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

Very nice man! I will leave this here for a week or so so you can edit it if need be and answer any questions that might pop up regarding this, and then I'll move it to it's proper place.

+ rep to you sir! :)
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

great write up!

I have on question thou. How can I be 100% sure that my actuator is the problem and not my... car alarm or some other electrical poltergeist?

I'm 85% sure the actuator might be driver side actuator since the door locks and unlocks by itself... and sometimes when it locks, the internet lock doesn't go all the way to locked position.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

great write up!

I have on question thou. How can I be 100% sure that my actuator is the problem and not my... car alarm or some other electrical poltergeist?

I'm 85% sure the actuator might be driver side actuator since the door locks and unlocks by itself... and sometimes when it locks, the internet lock doesn't go all the way to locked position.

Thanks!
yeah thats the acctuator alright, same thing was happening to me, replace it and your problems should disapear
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

boooooooya! didnt really use the DIY except for a quick refernece before we started but we got it changed in about 30mins, THX alot! i love NewTiburon, tomorrow window motor replace.... woot woot
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

will be doing this install today. great DIY. And, like the above, window motor too. Gotta love those faulty tib electronics.
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

Thanks for the DIY, was unsure how to remove actuator, you made it look simple.

Thanks, Pop-Pop
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

OK time to revive so dead threads because MAKO tib's post helped me out alot but was rather hard to understand . To Unlock a LOCKED door with a stuck actuator you will first need to remove the trim panel insert in the middle of the door . All you do if pull on it and it should come off . This will expose three holes in the door panel . The hole on the side closet to the actuator needs to be enlarged to fit your hand in there . Make it bigger with a razor knife and move on . Inside the door the actuator has a black cover on it . You will need to remove the phillips head screw closest to you to remove the cover . You will need a 1/4 ince driver with a phillips screw or something very small to get in there with to remove the cover . Once you rip the cover off follow the cable for the interior door handle to the actuator's lever on the inside on the cover . Move the lever with your hand manually and it will open the door . You will now scream for joy that you have opened the door . Replace parts as needed and stop making your girlfriend climb over the seat when you drive her car .
 

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Re: DIY: Door Actuator Replacement by Killen

ok i know i just posted this in a couple different threads but it needed to be done so that the people of the world with this problem can fix it. It was extremely frustrating trying tofind a way fix this. I hope one person at least uses this.
 

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Although I broke the plastic bracket holding the thicker bar of the actuator :( , your post was so helpful. Thank you so much!
 

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So my interior door handle was no longer activating the latch properly. I thought the problem might be something in the handle.. but it wasn't. The problem appears to be a disconnection of the control cable from the latch. I didn't know that until I got stuff apart.

I was using another guide on here to get into the door, and then found yours when I realized where the problem was located. This listing gave me the confidence to get into the latch system door to try and repair it, but I got stuck. I went to remove one of the "bastard bars". I pushed, pulled, lifted, swung, and couldn't get the thing out of there.

I spent 1/2 hour overall and 27 minutes of that was trying to get the latch mechanism out of the door to look at the connection where the interior door latch connects to it.

Somehow I missed the part where you said it'd be easiest to remove the outside handle to get the bars out. I kept coming inside the house and re-looking at the step before it, and for some reason thought the "lift, and pull towards you like a door" instruction was referring to the visible bastard bar. I was trying to continue without removing the exterior handle because I didn't have the right tool for that. I gotta apologize.. I was definitely cursing you at that point, "towards you"..? How does he know where I'm standing, or if I'm left or right handed? :)

So while trying to work that free. I had to give up and put the door back together again because something plastic was starting to "let go" in the exterior door handle. It began raining little tiny pieces, and upon testing it, I've introduced a bit of play into the system. I can see I'll need to buy a new exterior door handle the next time I go in there.

For the record, I'm apparently not the first person in that door, and whomever did it ahead of me, was a bull in a China shop.. There's all kinds of things they messed up, vapor barrier was messed up, and they apparently lost track of which screw went where, and overtightened an oversized screw into the interior door handle until the handle trim broke.. so the pieces were artfully arranged around the hole, etc. very disheartening to see. (Because even a replacement handle will now require that size screw in-order to engage the threads behind it, so it'll break the same way.)

Anyway.. thanks for the instructions, and I'll be back on this thread after I get an exterior handle. :)
 

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Wsup fellas. I'm not replacing my actuator but the exterior handle (driver side). I have every thing off n ready to go but the damn handle just won't come out. The hole for the bolt by the key mechanism just won't get over the metal tab that's part of the door body work. Is this the brute force bit that I read about? Lol. I think using brute force putting it in (after it was sprayed) is what damaged the plastic bits holding the brass rods in. The plastic has just crumbled away now I can't open my door from the outside. Wonderful huh? It would happen on a Friday
 

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Just an FYI.. a good way I found to disconnect the bastard bar from the lock is to insert the key into the door and jiggle it. turn the key to unlock after pushing the clip off the bar with your fingers. the turning of the key seems to pop the bar out from the lock mechanism.
 

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These instructions were SO helpful. I found that I did NOT have to take out the exterior door handle. I have smallish hands and good eyes. I also did it during the middle of a sunny day. Thanks a lot!
 

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thanks. helpful. I see you threw out the plastic vapor barrier. I wanna do the same --- any long term effects of that? did you inside door panel or floor ever get wet from rain or car wash?
 

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thanks. helpful. I see you threw out the plastic vapor barrier. I wanna do the same --- any long term effects of that? did you inside door panel or floor ever get wet from rain or car wash?
No there's no long term effects. Mine's been off for over a year and I haven't noticed a difference.
 

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thanks. helpful. I see you threw out the plastic vapor barrier. I wanna do the same --- any long term effects of that? did you inside door panel or floor ever get wet from rain or car wash?
No there's no long term effects. Mine's been off for over a year and I haven't noticed a difference.
In a wet or humid environment, the barrier helps limit water vapor getting to the back side of the doorcard and the electrical connections in the door. If you can save the barrier, I would do so. You can warm up the adhesive with a hair dryer to make it easier to peel it all apart, then warm it up again when re-installing. A bit of tape "here & there" can help hold it in place until the adhesive sets.
 

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Just did this and it was way easier than I thought.

One tip for reassembly: When bolting the exterior handle back in, DO reinstall the actuator. It keeps everything in place and prevents the lock from constantly falling down. Tried 30 minutes to get that bolt back in with the actuator off. Took 5 minutes after I bolted the actuator in place.
 

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Thanks for this!!! Replaced the interiors and getting ready to do the exteriors, excellent DIY.
 
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