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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, sorry if this i sa repost, checked the search and maybe i searched the wrong words.

Anyways, a few questions. what are the benifets of the Duel battery system. I curently need a Cap to keep my Headlights from dimming, but plan on running video (and a mini bar with dispenser) in the trunk area so i know i'm gonna need more power. Has anyone got a duel system hooked up? Or does anyone know how to go about doing this?

Any thought's opinions and information would be awesome. Thanks:3_winkthu
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

First off, your cap is there for large momentary draw's created by the sub's. a cap is VERY similar to a battery but it charges and discharges much faster. with that being said the main concern here becomes draw vs output of your alternator. if the draw from the system is greater than the output of the alternator you will start to drain the battery. The 2nd battery will allow you to opperate with more draw than output for a longer period of time (roughly 2x) you system will eventually kill both batteries though.. the ideal solution would be a high output alternator. i belive the V6 has a higher output alternator than the I4. i'd check with your nearest dealership to see if they are interchangable and if the v6 alternator is in fact higher output. that'll save you the weight of an extra battery and should help stop you from killing battery's by cycling them too much.
When's the mini bar gonna be done? that'll be a chick magnet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Duel Battery Set up?

Starting work on the mini bar, as soon as the lambo doors go on. Gonna have a fridge and the works LOL (including tap)

So there would be no advantage to a second battery. Can the alternator "over charge" the battery?
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

a second battery will only help you play your system for a longer period of time with the engine off. it will do absolutely nothing while you are driving. in fact, if you take a stock car, keep the radio off, and just run the basic electronics you can start the car and disconnect the battery completely and just the alt do all the work.

a cap in your situation is just a bandaid to a bullet wound. upgrade your big 3 and lose the crap, er uh i mean cap.
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

I dissagree with the above.
A cap helps the voltage system deal with sudden surges of power required by audio equipment.. and its good at what it does.
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

you are both right in some ways...caps are a jike as far as power demands...they do help in largepower draws for very very short periods...a second batteryis better because it will help for large power demands of high amperage and stabilize for longer periods...even with the car running....power will find the shortest route to draw from so if the battery is in theback near the equipment and you have a large relay or isolater to keep it charged and isolatedfrom the front battery the alternator will charge it...you will need a better alternator Tiburons only come with 80or 90 amp units cant remember...try tofind a Wrangler or Ohio Generator or even Powermaster alternators....if you get a bigger alternator and use the proper guage wiring for the power demands you wont need a cap ever....and the second battery is recommended for the mini bar....I hope this helps
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

Does anyone have a link to where you can buy a H/O alternator for the V-6? I have called a few places and they don't show one for our car, and also say that rewind is not an option, our bearing is too small and can't really be upgraded! They all recommend having brackets made and putting a GM one in its place with an external voltage stablizer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Duel Battery Set up?

so if i upgrade the alternator AND install a second battery in the rear. can you run the batteries in parrelell or does it need to be a independent circut? can the upgraded alternator charge both batteries?
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

you dont need an isolator if the batteries were both brand new and installed at the same time AND are the same kind of battery.

Before you start thinking about asecond battery, why is it that you think you need one? list your current auido setup and that will help us determine if you really need one or not.

And yes, JDOG, a cap will help sudden surges ONLY IF the charging system can keep up. IF the big 3 has not been upgraded, the cap is just serving as a bandaid to a bullet wound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Duel Battery Set up?

well i'm running 2 12 JL's off a 500/1 my speakers off the 300/4, have the kenwood exelon 785 (think thats the right number) but am also running two phantom 2 gauges and a mini bar in the trunk. Also have 4 6" white neons in the amp rack.

The mini bar consists of a cooler (12v) 3-4 (hav't decided yet on final set up) pumps similar to the ones used to spray windsheild fluid.

Video - will be installing 2- 5" screens in the visors (havn't decided what brand) and a 7" in dash screen (again havn't decided what brand). I want to make sure i have the power to do this before i order anything so that if i need to watch the draws or change plans i don't screw myself.

right now, when i hit a low not (car not running) its enough to kill the engine.
(when running) - dims head light to almost nothing <---- cap is not installed yet

any construstive advice?
 

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Re: Duel Battery Set up?

thats a lot of electronics! lol. 2 batteries is a good idea for your setup. you want a good starting battery (such as an optima redtop) and you definitely want to isolate a good deep cycle battery (IE. an optima yellow top or a kinetic battery) for all of your additional electronics. upgrading the BIG 3 is a MUST. you will definitely want to use 1/0ga wire for your big 3 and your power and ground for the batteries. I highly doubt you will benefit from a cap. if you already have it, sell it and get a nice H/O alternator. Make sure it puts out a decent amount of amperage at idle. Most H/O alts actually supply less amperage at idle than your stock alt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Duel Battery Set up?

so a aftermarket alternator can charge both? how would i wire these in? series parellel? what about venting the rear battery? (heard it might need to be) could run the vent plug out under the car with the sink drain? sorrry about all the questions, trying to get working knoledge of this.
 

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If you get the optima's, you won't really have to worry about venting it. I am still waiting to see a link to a H/O alternator for our V-6 cars!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
bump to top.

cummon someone has to have a diagram or some more info on this?
 

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as far as I know, there arent any straight bolt on upgrades for alternators for either the V6 or the I4. You WILL need to vent your second battery, even if it is an optima. All batteries emit gas fumes. optimas are just very slow at doing it. as far as running the batteries series or parallel - it would be neither. you will need to get an isolator for 2 batteries. It comes with instructions.
 

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you DO NOT need to vent an OPTIMA,KINETIK,STINGER etc..if it is a sealed deep cycle battery...the are ventless and do not emit vapors...hence you can mount them in any position including upside down.....optima yellowtops redtops or bluetop(marine)can be mounted anywhere....anyone that tells you any different is wrong ....as far as your setup...get a good large amperage battery for up front...i recommend Kinetik or Stinger or Optima..in that order...4 gauge is fine for your audio portion i would prolly run 2 gauge for good measure that you can run everything you plan on running off of that...i have a 500/1 and 300/4 in my car with 4 gauge going to distribution blocks 4 gauge running to each amp and an Optima yellow top up front ground kit in the engine bay and a really nice ground in the rear...and ihave no issues..this is in my work demo car which is a 2005 Stratus sedan...i had a similar setup in my Tiburon with the same yellow top no issues..ground kit will help and having proper gauge wire..in mydbDrag car I never had a cap ever one battery and a little over 2500 watts running to two tens and just 2 short runs of 0 gauge in my Dodge Magnum(battery is in rear) no issues there....if you have any questions that require a professional answer just let me know ive been doing car audio for a long long time
 

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well rally, i hate to be the one to burst your "professional" bubble, but you are most definitely wrong here. There are plenty of reasons why you should vent your battery even if it is "sealed". For 1, optimas are not completely sealed. My pic below shows the vent on my red top optima. guess why its all dirty and junked up? you guessed it, because i had it mounted on its side and it started to leak. If you need more proof, I will take a pic of my trunk which is covered in battery acid from the last red top I had to warranty. reason #2 - Straight from the IASCA rule book "Batteries installed in the vehicle, regardless of type, must have adequate external ventilation to prevent possible hydrogen gas build up during recharge conditions." Obviously this is for safety. Notice how it didnt say "all batteries except closed cell batteries".

and lastly, if you havent believed a single word I have said so far, the following is copied directly off of optimas web site and explains it all.

2. Does OPTIMA® ever gas?

When used with a properly regulated constant voltage charging system (such as an alternator) the OPTIMA will usually not emit hydrogen gas. However, gassing can occur when charging at higher voltage levels or in extreme high temperature conditions. In automotive applications this typically will not happen if the alternator/regulator stays below 15 volts.



and rally, im not trying to pick on you or make you feel stupid in any way. Im just trying to keep the facts straight here. wouldnt be good for someone to get bad advice and be the one exception to the general rule of it usually working.
 
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