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So I bought this 2008 Hyundai Tiburon 6 months ago and for the last 1 or 2 months I've been having problems to turn on the car and an ABS light has been on.
When I insert the key and try to start the car, it won't do anything and you can see in the dashboard board how light intermittently fade. What I would do is to take the key out and put it back in a couple of times until suddenly light up the dashboard as it would normally. And then the car starts. Yesterday this process was taking longer than usual and I decided to open the hood and check the battery connector and as soon as I touched and applied very little force on the positive, the dashboard lighted up again. Also the battery positive pin was somewhat hot.
I have also noticed that when I turn the steering wheel more than 90° there is this weird sound that I don't know where it comes from. It is not loud, you can barely hear it but is like a squeaky hard to describe noise. At the same time my radio would turn off as I turn the wheel or sometimes braking too. As soon as I stop moving the wheel or braking, it turns back on. Similar thing with the lights, as I do those, the lights fade a bit. And when I'm not moving is even worse because when I push the steering wheel to the max turn angle, the car sometimes have literally shot down. And when it doesn't shut down still all the previous lights and radio problems are worsen.

Today I used AutoZone's scanner and got a couple of possible ABS error codes to check.
The error codes are:
C1209: WHEEL SPEED SENSOR REAR - RH OPEN/SHORT​
C1211: SIGNAL PASSENGER BUCKLED INPUT STATE NOT VALID​
C1210: WHEEL SPEED SENSOR REAR - RH RANGE/PERFORMANCE/INTERMITTENT​
C2402: ABS PUMP MOTOR VOLTAGE FAULT​
C2112: HECU SOLENOID RELAY VOLTAGE OUTPUT FAULT​
C1101: TCS5 MESSAGE TIME - OUT​
Do you guys have any idea what should I do, or what it is going on and how to fix this? (I don't want to spend hundreds at a mechanic shop before finding out if I can fix it myself)
 

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I would replace that right rear wheel speed sensor. They're not expensive or hard to replace.

A lot of your other problems it sounds like may be related to a failing or binding power steering pump. If it's binding it can cause the belt to slip, which would then not drive the alternator properly and create low voltage situations in various places. That may be the squealing you're hearing too if the belt is slipping on one or more pulleys. Turning the wheel to max one way or the other is hard on power steering systems anyway, and if it's having problems before that it will be worse at full lock.
 

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First: is it an i4 or V6?

Sounds like you have a loose / cracked battery terminal. Fix that first, poor battery connections can cause all kinds of problems.

IF YOU HAVE THE 4 CYLINDER / i4
I believe the first belt drive on the i4 drives the water pump and alternator, then another belt jumps off the water pump to the power steering. If that's right, your water pump / alternator belt can be loose and cause the alternator, water pump, and power steering to stop turning, which can be made worse with a load (such as the power steering pump). I would first check that the belts are all in good shape and tight. You can visually confirm by having someone turn the wheel while you look at the power steering pump's pulley.

The ABS can trip rear wheel speed sensor codes when the codes are checked before driving the car, Make sure you drive the car for a little before checking ABS codes or else you might be getting codes for perfectly good sensors.
 

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'04 Tiburon GT V6
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Absolutely fix your battery connections. If you are using the original positive side battery connector, REPLACE IT. It won't break your bank, and fixing the positive side should realistically take you around 15 minutes or so. Even if it is working "perfectly fine", the original style connector is a crime against good engineering practices - it is failure-prone due to its design.

You will need to spend about $8 on new terminal connectors and about $5 on a battery terminal brush; I also recommend spending an additional $5 on a tube of battery terminal grease. Throw in an extra couple of bucks on some 120 grit sandpaper to get rid of rust.
For the type of replacement connector, I suggest these: Household hardware Auto part Metal Fashion accessory Art


I wrote my battery terminal fixing story as help below and then spoilered it because it's not exactly rocket surgery.

Spoiler!
 
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