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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve had problems with my a/c on speed 4 and recently replaced the fan switch. It worked for one day and has become glitchy again. I came across this thread: AC Fan switch again - new fix
This seems to be permanent fix but I know nothing of electrical work. Can someone explain in simple terms how this guy fixed the problem?
 

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"I was ready to cut off the factory terminal ends and replace them with some better quality ones except the terminals I had on hand wouldn't fit in the factory connector block. I decided to try soldering the factory crimp connections. Got it done and plugged everything up and the fan works good now on all speeds, no hot wires and no blinking switch lights at all when going to high speed. "
A crimp connector is a metal ferrule (like a little barrel) mashed with a specialized crimping tool onto the end of a wire. The writer above flowed lead solder into the crimps, improving their conductance of current to the switch. The solder has less resistance because it makes contact with all strands of the wire, where a crimp contacts fewer strands of wire.
This is what I think he meant. Hope this helps.
 

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"I was ready to cut off the factory terminal ends and replace them with some better quality ones except the terminals I had on hand wouldn't fit in the factory connector block. I decided to try soldering the factory crimp connections. Got it done and plugged everything up and the fan works good now on all speeds, no hot wires and no blinking switch lights at all when going to high speed. "
A crimp connector is a metal ferrule (like a little barrel) mashed with a specialized crimping tool onto the end of a wire. The writer above flowed lead solder into the crimps, improving their conductance of current to the switch. The solder has less resistance because it makes contact with all strands of the wire, where a crimp contacts fewer strands of wire.
This is what I think he meant. Hope this helps.
Agreed.
Basically 3 fixes in linked thread.
-squeeze down female connector where it slides on switch flat pins.
-solder female connector to wire in car harness.
-replace female connector with gold plated connectors (I believe linked in one post).

Issue can be, fan is old, amp load goes up, overheat harness connection. Same for lighting upgrades, you overload a so-so wire sizing/connection which then overheats. Part of why adding lights or bigger lights it's suggested to use factory wiring to run a relay that uses more direct battery power with heavier wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Charlie-III When you say the fan is old are you talking about the fans connected to the radiator? When you are talking about about the female connector you are talking about the piece at the end of each wire that is connected to the connector correct? I’m assuming I need a special tool to remove the wire from the connector.
 

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I actually just did a full relay system in mine with 12Ga wire like last week. The fan switch now does nothing more than control the relays on or off for the different fan speeds. No more high amperage flowing through the switch. I starting having problems with intermittent fan function and found pictures of peoples fan switch and harness getting melted. Discovered my own switch showing signs of high heat and decided to cut the head off the snake early.

This is an overkill solution, but also a permanent solution and solves all related problems. Cost me around $80 in parts, plus new fan switch. Took me around 3 days of isolating wires, making a relay bracket, playing with wire diagrams, etc etc. mainly in free time.

I would not advise attempting this without decent wiring experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I actually just did a full relay system in mine with 12Ga wire like last week. The fan switch now does nothing more than control the relays on or off for the different fan speeds. No more high amperage flowing through the switch. I starting having problems with intermittent fan function and found pictures of peoples fan switch and harness getting melted. Discovered my own switch showing signs of high heat and decided to cut the head off the snake early.

This is an overkill solution, but also a permanent solution and solves all related problems. Cost me around $80 in parts, plus new fan switch. Took me around 3 days of isolating wires, making a relay bracket, playing with wire diagrams, etc etc. mainly in free time.

I would not advise attempting this without decent wiring experience.
Lol if I was to compare my electrical knowledge into general maintenance terms then I wouldn’t know how to change an oil filter. So this definitely wouldn’t be for me. Awesome work though.
 

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@Charlie-III When you say the fan is old are you talking about the fans connected to the radiator? When you are talking about about the female connector you are talking about the piece at the end of each wire that is connected to the connector correct? I’m assuming I need a special tool to remove the wire from the connector.
No, the fan under the dash.
The connector that plugs into the back of the HVAC control.
 
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