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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok heres the story I took my car in to get a new clutch (clutchmaster stage 4) and a new flywheel (Fidanza HY5) so I go to pick it up today and they broke the dam clutch I don’t know how to describe where the break is so here are some pictures






The little rod that sticks out and connects to the clutch is bent/broken also I cant move it in and out (shouldn’t I be able to do that?). Does anyone know what is wrong and what needs to be done to fix it obviously the rod needs replaced but does anyone have any information on this at all?

I can drive it if I put it in 1st then start it and let it burn out I have no control of the clutch at all.

edit:: Ok I just went and fiddled with it some more and discovered I can move the slave cylinder in and out easily and after doing that I can push the bent rod in and pull it out once then it jams up again and I cant move it. Could it be the master cylinder?
 

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I have no idea what I'm seeing in the pics...
 

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Did it work properly when you picked up the car? If not, why did you accept it. Take it back and have them fix whatever the problem is since it wasn't there when you took the car to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
05GT said:
Did it work properly when you picked up the car? If not, why did you accept it. Take it back and have them fix whatever the problem is since it wasn't there when you took the car to them.
Basically I took it because:
A. They are closed until next wed and i need the car to get to work even if i can only drive 20MPH
B. and the main reason they are refusing to pay for the damages because in some magical way they were caused by the “heavy clutch” i brought them not the dumb *** who must have stomped the hell out of the clutch to cause this. The only thing they will do is bleed the clutch for me after I get it fixed.

Zaion said:
I have no idea what I'm seeing in the pics...
Yeah its hard to see heres a video of it that might help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXcXQ6LzBU8

the thing i rotate is supposed to be straight and connect to the cup thing on the peddle
 

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They bent the push rod to the master cylinder - the clutch in our cars is hydraulic - the pressure in the master cylinder is transfered to a slave cylinder that actually pushes the clutch in.. In order for them to have bent the push rod that is on the pedal, they would have had to installed something wrong that would have caused a binding that bent the push rod.. The actual work to push the clutch in is done by the slave cylinder.. not the pedal. And, the stage 4 clutch is actually easier to push in than the stocker... I would be standing on someones neck down at that shop if they tried to put that crap in my ears...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok ive taken apart everything hydrolic master and slave cylinders and discovered had they not been broken they were working fine. The slave cylinder moved in and out fine but the clutch was stuck in (engaged) weather it was pushed all the way forward or back anyone know what they could have done wrong on the install to cause this?
 

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That's bullsh't. Take it back and raise hell. The dealer broke my shaft installing a new clutch under warranty, and had the car tied up 9 days to redo it. At least they were ethical enough to say we fck'd up and we're fixing it. I can't see sh't from your pics (they're too close). Sounds like they btroke during the install and just went ahead and shoved it together anyway, or they installed it wrong.
 

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most shops don't know the system is a pull type clutch.. not a push.. so they don't know how to install it - I will bet a dime to donuts they did not put the throwout bearing on properly - and its just a mess in there - that would cause a bind and bend stuff if you stomped on the pedal

take off the slave cylinder, and turn the push fork over and push on it backwards of how it normally moves and see if you hear a load POP - maybe they never snapped it in...
 

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UnHolyTib said:
most shops don't know the system is a pull type clutch.. not a push.. so they don't know how to install it - I will bet a dime to donuts they did not put the throwout bearing on properly - and its just a mess in there - that would cause a bind and bend stuff if you stomped on the pedal

take off the slave cylinder, and turn the push fork over and push on it backwards of how it normally moves and see if you hear a load POP - maybe they never snapped it in...

what is the difference between a push type and pull type clutch system? how would that affect installation?

thanks

jon
 

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Our cars pull the fingers on the pressure plate, the average clutch gets pushed - so, most tranny shops ( and beleive me lots of them have not worked on a hyundai) ASSUME that the throw out bearing pushes on the clutch splines, so they assemble it as such... and don't snap it in, and put the throwout on the wrong, so its just sitting in there - not on the fork, and not snapped in to the pressure plate... so you push the clutch, and nothing happens, it pulls the throwout away from the clutch...
 

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UnHolyTib said:
Our cars pull the fingers on the pressure plate, the average clutch gets pushed - so, most tranny shops ( and beleive me lots of them have not worked on a hyundai) ASSUME that the throw out bearing pushes on the clutch splines, so they assemble it as such... and don't snap it in, and put the throwout on the wrong, so its just sitting in there - not on the fork, and not snapped in to the pressure plate... so you push the clutch, and nothing happens, it pulls the throwout away from the clutch...

thanks for the info. i only ask because im about to get my stage 2 clutchmasters and fidanza fw put in and i want it to be put in correctly. so, i should tell them it's a pull type system so they install it correctly?
 

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Yes its definitely the pull type. I learned the hard way when i installed my Stge 3 Clucthmaster and fidanza flywheel. I had everything put back togather, later to find out the push fork was not inserted in the pilot bearing. I had to rip the transmission back out 3 times before i got it. At the end it was all worth it.
 
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