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Discussion Starter #343
It's been way too long since I worked on my car, which is very sad. But last weekend I had the time to pull things apart and have a look. Examining the exhaust manifold I didn't find any cracks, and checking with a level didn't show any warpage. I sanded it flat just to be sure, and there were no obvious spots where it wasn't level already.
The search continues...
 

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Discussion Starter #344
Well.... I found the source of the exhaust leak. The turbo to downpipe gasket gave out on me, so that's now been fixed. However, that didn't have anything to do with my idling issues. I'll keep working on that.

Also, I took advantage of Black Friday sales to upgrade my stereo head unit. The one in there was a nice model but from 2012, and I wanted something with android auto. And so, here is the new model:

 

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Did you reset the ECU after fixing the leak? Your trims could've been outta whack.
Agreed......whenever fixing major issues that affect the ECU, get and write down codes as well as LTFT's, fix Issue, reset ECU (clear codes with scanner, kill ECU power).....let ECU relearn. Recheck, see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #347
I did reset the ECU, but it didn't make a difference. Feels like the struggle to maintain vacuum is mechanical, not electronics related. But unfortunately I haven't had much time to look at it.

In the meantime, it's still my daily driver, so I spent some time washing and detailing her. Fell in love with my car all over again. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone and here are some car pictures!!!



 

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Discussion Starter #349
  1. Get a standalone and be done with it! I have some great basemaps for thr Haltech Elite series. :D
That's actually the plan for this summer. To go standalone. Haven't done the research yet to see which one makes the most sense, but it's definitely going to happen.
 

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Haltech Elite 1500! Can do gear dependent boost control and also has damn near close to stock knock sensing. It can retard timing and place it back in once it stops detecting knock. Oh and Flex Fuel capability built right in. AND it has the ability to spit out basic OBD codes. It cannot do emissions readiness checks so if your state requires that your outta luck as no standalone supports that.
 

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Discussion Starter #351
Haltech Elite 1500! Can do gear dependent boost control and also has damn near close to stock knock sensing. It can retard timing and place it back in once it stops detecting knock. Oh and Flex Fuel capability built right in. AND it has the ability to spit out basic OBD codes. It cannot do emissions readiness checks so if your state requires that your outta luck as no standalone supports that.
All of that sounds amazing! It's unfortunate that the 1500 are on the expensive side. But at least I'm in Florida and we don't do any emissions checks or inspections at all. When it gets closer I'll do some research and see if there's something simpler in the Haltech line that will do what I need. This car is a daily and it'll never run E85, so the Flex Fuel option is not something I'll ever need.
 

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Keep in mind you get what you pay for. Haltechs support is awesome and they are constantly adding new features via firmware updates. Oh and have damn near perfect base maps that would require little to no tuning. Good luck finding that with anything else lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #353 (Edited)
Keep in mind you get what you pay for. Haltechs support is awesome and they are constantly adding new features via firmware updates. Oh and have damn near perfect base maps that would require little to no tuning. Good luck finding that with anything else lol.
You make some very good points lol. And if I remember correctly there's no plug and play harnesses for any standalone out there, so it will be a custom wiring job either way. Plus having to figure out what to do with the FIC wires that were tapped or intercepted already.

Oh and I need to do a bunch more research like how to make the check engine light in the dash hook up to the standalone, and if I can get rid of the MAF. Plenty of learning to do before anything else happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #355
Update: first time in a while. I found the source of my leak. Turns out one of the plastic Ts in the vacuum lines was cracked pretty badly. That's where I was losing 4 lbs of boost. Now that's fixed, the car is responsive and fun again. However, it didn't do anything to my idle. Talking to a mechanic friend, he mentioned that it's completely possible that this is a result of replacing the clutch last year. It makes sense if the rotating mass changed my a large amount.

I didn't think about it because my first performance clutch was an ACT unit and that one didn't have any effect on idle. This one is Centerforce.

Besides all that, I'm starting to look heavily into getting a standalone. Most likely going to go with a Haltech Elite 1500. Trying to find someone who will do the wiring locally. The important thing for me is to maintain drivability and also all the normal functionality. Besides the check engine light, I don't know if the tach and speedometer are getting their signal from ECU or directly from sensors, and what other things I don't even know about. I just don't want to find out afterwards that half the dash doesn't work anymore.
 

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I call "BS" on changing the clutch.....

General OBDII rule....you change/fix something, clear codes/CELS, let ECU relearn, go from there....ECU may have learned bad info/parts, thus clear codes and go back to baseline...

Frankly, even changing mass on a flywheel should have minor affect on other engine stuff related to CEL's...clear codes, let the ECU relearn....
 

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Discussion Starter #357
The problem started at the same time the clutch was changed, but if it's not that, what could it be. I'm running out of possible problems...

I've cleared codes and fuel trims multiple times since then, and I did it right after fixing the boost leak.

This feels like a mechanical reason that prevents the car from settling down into a proper idle, not something being done by the ECU.
 

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I can only suggest checking the IAC again... Maybe you have a vac leak from the IAC gaskets or the intake manifold or something?

With regards to standalone ECU's i've had great success with the Link G4+ Thunder...

To be honest i've probably gone one step further than most as i wanted to maintain stock-like functionality whilst having full control over the ECU calibration.

I have the Link ECU integrated with the factory dash (working tach, speedo, ECU lights etc), i even have the stock obd-ii port wired up.

With my setup i've integrated the factory A/C controls and oe pressure sensor etc, i'm even using the oe purge valve and fuel tank pressure sensor.

For traction control / launch control i've switched from the the oe cable throttle to a bosch e-throttle.

I've then integrated the oe steering wheel cruise stalk, 4x wheel speed sensors, oe traction switch, brake switch, clutch switch and also the dash traction lights.

I've even got the flat foot shift working as i'm using the oe clutch switch as a trigger... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #359
I can only suggest checking the IAC again... Maybe you have a vac leak from the IAC gaskets or the intake manifold or something?

With regards to standalone ECU's i've had great success with the Link G4+ Thunder...

To be honest i've probably gone one step further than most as i wanted to maintain stock-like functionality whilst having full control over the ECU calibration.

I have the Link ECU integrated with the factory dash (working tach, speedo, ECU lights etc), i even have the stock obd-ii port wired up.

With my setup i've integrated the factory A/C controls and oe pressure sensor etc, i'm even using the oe purge valve and fuel tank pressure sensor.

For traction control / launch control i've switched from the the oe cable throttle to a bosch e-throttle.

I've then integrated the oe steering wheel cruise stalk, 4x wheel speed sensors, oe traction switch, brake switch, clutch switch and also the dash traction lights.

I've even got the flat foot shift working as i'm using the oe clutch switch as a trigger... :)
Over the course of this whole mess I've replaced the IAC with the gasket several times, replaced the intake manifold gasket, and checked for leaks multiple times.

Very impressive!! That's exactly what I want to do! The OEM like functionality is exactly what I'm looking for. It's a little easier for me because I don't have traction control or cruise control, but everything else needs to work.

I'd love some guidance on what you did to make your setup work. Which systems and gauges need to run through the ECU to work, and what gets their information directly from the sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #360
Can't believe it's been 3 months since the last update. Not much has happened since then, until very recently. I took it to a mechanic to look over everything to make sure the car is ready for major upgrades. He didn't find any problems, all cylinders had 190 compression and 0% leakdown. Mechanically she's fine with a very healthy motor.

That means we're ready for a standalone! About 30 minutes ago I placed an order from a local supplier for a Haltech Elite 1000, a boost control soleniod, intake air temp sensor, and a Haltech o2 sensor. Once it's all in, I have someone lined up to do the wiring, using dmdick's map as an excellent starting point. The guy I went to understands that this car is my daily, so I want to keep the interior as OEM as possible, with a functioning gauge cluster, AC, and everything else.

I'm getting really excited about this guys. When this project first started 6 years ago, I knew the FIC was a temporary solution. This has been in the making for a very long time. Let's go!
 
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