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Discussion Starter · #361 ·
Well... a little sooner of an update than I was expecting. I was on my way to the grocery store (who am I kidding, it was the liquor store) excitedly waiting for my Haltech to come in, like I do most days. Left the store, started the car, and saw a good amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. No smoke in the engine bay, just the exhaust. After about 2 minutes it cleared up and drove home just fine. I let it sit in the garage for about 10 minutes and started it up and the smoke came back again. No leaks of any kind on the ground. Considering that the engine was just confirmed as in excellent health, my first guess was the turbo. This turbo has an unknown history before I got it, and it's been on the car for 6 good years already.
Yesterday I finally got some time to investigate. Took the intake piping off and found this.





There was actually more oil in there that the picture shows, but you can tell it's not good.

Sooo yeah.... that's one dead turbo....
 

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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
Happy Friday everyone!! Today is a big day that has been in the making for 6 years (13 if you count how long I've owned the car).

First and foremost, I had the turbo rebuilt and put all the hardware back together. The shop that did the work was nice enough to paint it for me and everything.


It's sooo much fun having 2 project cars that start acting up on you and both have to be fixed/put back together.



But eventually all of that was back together. And Haltech goodies came in, so things were going well.



I found a person to do the actual wiring, and he got it all done in 2 days. Here's all the extra stuff we removed that will no longer be needed:



A week after the Haltech was wired in, it was finally dyno time.




Dyno Run Video

And the final number is:



In the end, the car is running 14 lbs or boost and the injectors are at 82% duty cycle. Considering the power figure, I didn't want to push it any more than that. I'm happy with how it feels and drives, and there's no need to get crazy with a daily driver.

It almost feels surreal to be at this point, where your project car is finally finished. Time to drive it around and enjoy my shark. After a very thorough wash/detail/wax.

Thank you guys for reading all this and following along. Hopefully it's been entertaining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #363 ·
After a few months of the car running perfectly, she's starting to want attention again. And by attention I mean the clutch is not holding under boost. Anytime I go higher than 5psi it starts slipping. This is frustrating because it's the second "performance" clutch that's gone out on me. The first one was ACT and this one is a Centerforce unit. Both were supposed to be fine up to 300 ft/lb of torque, which I'm clearly under.

I think this time I'm going to get something seriously heavy duty, so I won't have to worry about this again. For all of you guys putting down similar or higher numbers than me, I'd love some advice on what clutch you're using.

Side note: last time I didn't get a new flywheel, but I did get a new surface plate ( think it's called) for the Fidanza flywheel that I already have. Will probably do the same thing again.
 

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After a few months of the car running perfectly, she's starting to want attention again. And by attention I mean the clutch is not holding under boost. Anytime I go higher than 5psi it starts slipping. This is frustrating because it's the second "performance" clutch that's gone out on me. The first one was ACT and this one is a Centerforce unit. Both were supposed to be fine up to 300 ft/lb of torque, which I'm clearly under.

I think this time I'm going to get something seriously heavy duty, so I won't have to worry about this again. For all of you guys putting down similar or higher numbers than me, I'd love some advice on what clutch you're using.

Side note: last time I didn't get a new flywheel, but I did get a new surface plate ( think it's called) for the Fidanza flywheel that I already have. Will probably do the same thing again.
A clutch is (from the engine...), flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate....regardless of "push/pull" pressure plate.
Order is the same for single mass (rather common) or dual mass (some cars, stock in a V6 Tib).
I run a ACT SS and light flywheel (12lbs vs 22lbs) in a modded NA 2.5 Subaru (in my profile). My mods have me in low 225HP/TQ (stock was about 165)......so, similar to you.
Biggest thing I find (assuming correct parts for application) is the friction plate does not slide on the trans the input shaft. I "dry fit" the friction plate to the belt neutral shaft. Slide back & forth twisting a bit....once it slides free, light lube the input shaft and assemble.
I am NOT writing a "how to" here, but you can PM me for a cell # and we chat.
 

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All depends on your power goals really... I would say for less that 350fb/lb torque then a 4-6 puck (ceramic) paddle clutch with a high-clamp pressure plate should do the trick.

Alternatively you could do the "pull to push" clutch conversion and use a DSM clutch (400-450lb) with the right combo.

For anything more (including drag racing) then a twin disc is probably the way to go :)

Yeah having been through a number of stock gearboxes myself i would say they are reasonably reliable providing you keep the torque below 350ft/lb and don't go to the drag strip too often.

Clutch wise, i've been running a SMT / XTD 5 puck (sprung) race clutch / lightweight flywheel for years. I had the whole assembly cryogenically treated before installing and that was over 5 years ago now.

For the new setup i've opted for the Clutchmasters twin disc.
 

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After a few months of the car running perfectly, she's starting to want attention again. And by attention I mean the clutch is not holding under boost. Anytime I go higher than 5psi it starts slipping. This is frustrating because it's the second "performance" clutch that's gone out on me. The first one was ACT and this one is a Centerforce unit. Both were supposed to be fine up to 300 ft/lb of torque, which I'm clearly under.

I think this time I'm going to get something seriously heavy duty, so I won't have to worry about this again. For all of you guys putting down similar or higher numbers than me, I'd love some advice on what clutch you're using.

Side note: last time I didn't get a new flywheel, but I did get a new surface plate ( think it's called) for the Fidanza flywheel that I already have. Will probably do the same thing again.
You have a 6 puck? And also what you could do is go to a push clutch conversion
 

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Discussion Starter · #367 ·
A clutch is (from the engine...), flywheel, friction plate, pressure plate....regardless of "push/pull" pressure plate.
Order is the same for single mass (rather common) or dual mass (some cars, stock in a V6 Tib).
I run a ACT SS and light flywheel (12lbs vs 22lbs) in a modded NA 2.5 Subaru (in my profile). My mods have me in low 225HP/TQ (stock was about 165)......so, similar to you.
Biggest thing I find (assuming correct parts for application) is the friction plate does not slide on the trans the input shaft. I "dry fit" the friction plate to the belt neutral shaft. Slide back & forth twisting a bit....once it slides free, light lube the input shaft and assemble.
I am NOT writing a "how to" here, but you can PM me for a cell # and we chat.
Thank you for the offer, but I'm going to have a shop do this.

This is the clutch that's currently in there.


My goals aren't much higher than what the car is at now, and mostly street use with an occasional quarter mile at the track, but not heavy racing.
For the pull to push conversion, I would have to do a little more research and talk to the shop who's going to do the work.

Also was thinking while I'm in there, it might be worth it to get an LSD. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #369 ·
I haven't done anything with it yet. Been driving around only hitting a little bit of boost, and it holds just fine. It only starts slipping at WOT and max boost. But the plan will be to convert to a push style clutch and got something that holds 300+ tq.
 

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What car can I search for to get a clutch that fits post conversion? I'm assuming it won't be the same tib clutches, but one for another car?
As I remember you sure the Mitsubishi eclise non turbo push style pressure plate and clutch with the beta flywheel and then get this modified clutch fork kit from this company atelier hp Atelier HP
 

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Discussion Starter · #374 ·
Long time no talk everyone!! I've actually been in contact with the guys at Atelier HP, and currently waiting on a quote for their clutch conversion kit.

No updates on the tib since my last post, but I do have something cool to share. I finally decided to pull the trigger and redo my garage. Painted the ceiling and walls, and had a new epoxy floor put in. I'm very happy with the results.







Now starts the super fun part of organizing all of my stuff and putting it back in the garage. 3 project car's worth of stuff, with some random house related things thrown in.
 

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Looks great nice job. It’ll feel so much cleaner having done the floor.
I used garage paint on my floor about 5 years ago and it still looks good, not as good as this though. I have to mop it every month or two.
 

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When you do get a conversion kit I say get a spec stage 3+ clutch disk, or stage 5 clutch disk with q act pressure plate and tbh that will be the best set up I think you can go with mostly with the stage 5 because it will hold , but probably be less street drive able
 

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Discussion Starter · #377 ·
When you do get a conversion kit I say get a spec stage 3+ clutch disk, or stage 5 clutch disk with q act pressure plate and tbh that will be the best set up I think you can go with mostly with the stage 5 because it will hold , but probably be less street drive able
Sorry it took forever to answer but thanks for the info! I got the conversion kit, but the clutch hasn't been slipping lately so I decided to leave it alone until it gives out.

In other news, I got rear ended yesterday. Nothing horrible, it was at a stop sign, but it was one of those big FedEx trucks not paying attention. The rear bumper cover is scratched up, but my worry is that there are things bent underneath. Taking it to different body shops today to get estimates.
But while I'm at it, I'm considering getting an aftermarket rear bumper. Does anyone make or sell them anymore? I know there was never a big market, but it's worth a try asking around.
 

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That’s sucks about getting rear ended. Try bodykits dot com. It looks like they have some stuff for Tibs.

Im interested in what was included with the clutch conversion kit ? And cost if u don’t mind me asking.
I was looking at running a clutch masters FX300 for about 10-12psi as it states 110% over stock
 
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