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Discussion Starter #21
I PASSED!!!! EMISSIONS TEST IS OVER!

Oh dear god I'm happy. Thank you so much for your help!

So over the weekend I took it out on the highway and after 15-20 minutes of going about 60mph the last two emissions codes passed.

But to wrap up this post and give the solution to my lean troubles; the final fix was to modify the SRI I had. I found another Tib driver who had the exact same model, mods and problem as me and his solution turn out to be that the K&N air filter in their SRI system is fitted directly to the MAF. Not sure, but it makes sense that the air might not have enough time to equally dissipate before it's read by the MAF. He was able to reattach the stock air filter but since mine is long gone (a newbie mistake I made years ago NEVER THROW OUT WORKING PARTS) I had to improvise. I got a 3" flexible air intake hose from Autozone and turned it into a cheap cold air intake. Immediately both banks evened out, before the install the LTFT was at 15.63% for bank 1 and 12.5% for bank 2. After installing the hose they were both at 13.25%.

The engine is running much smoother during idling even though it's still running lean. I would like to get it in the single digits and to have a better quality CAI, but for now I'm going to enjoy this victory.
 

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Congrats on passing inspection.

Yes, some aftermarket intakes mess with the ECU. Subaru is a major issue, others are sorta OK.
MAP based cars are a lot more tolerant.
It is not increased airflow that is the issue, it is how the MAF sees the airflow through it. A different flow through the MAF can make it run lean or rich. One never knows.

In a pinch, I have sometimes cut up a bunch of plastic straws, then glue them together side by side (like, 1" long pieces) using Goop, then fit I them into the intake before the MAF.
This can help straighten the airflow a bit and if a piece breaks off and gets sucked in, it won't hurt expensive bits.
This is not a long term solution though.
 

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i think i was getting this code at one point and i was burning thru fuel when the code went off... i just needed o2 sensor updates on the on the car computer. the guy i know over at the dealership did the updates free for me... mostly will not be same for you getting free update
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So enough time has passed where I can now call this problem 100% fixed. While all of the things I've done were necessary, there was one last repair that made all the difference; timing belt. After the exhaust fix I could hear that ticking being a big problem and all signs were pointing to the hydraulic lash adjusters. Since that's a crazy repair I thankfully found that a bad timing belt can cause that knocking too (it was a loud knock that hit every rotation and would speed up when reving the engine, it sounded like it was coming from the intake manifold).

I did the repair myself and while it was a pain to do it in the cold, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Now the engine has a growl to it that it never had before and the knock is gone, but most importantly my fuel trim is at 0% on both banks and has been for 2 weeks now. REPLACE YOUR TIMING BELT EVERY 60K! I got my Tib at 64k so I didn't know, but now at 74k that belt had cracks all over it. I was so scared because if that broke...

So hopefully this helps in the future for someone else because timing belts are not to be taken lightly and even though my back hurt really really bad after doing this, it was worth it.
 

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So enough time has passed where I can now call this problem 100% fixed. While all of the things I've done were necessary, there was one last repair that made all the difference; timing belt. After the exhaust fix I could hear that ticking being a big problem and all signs were pointing to the hydraulic lash adjusters. Since that's a crazy repair I thankfully found that a bad timing belt can cause that knocking too (it was a loud knock that hit every rotation and would speed up when reving the engine, it sounded like it was coming from the intake manifold).

I did the repair myself and while it was a pain to do it in the cold, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Now the engine has a growl to it that it never had before and the knock is gone, but most importantly my fuel trim is at 0% on both banks and has been for 2 weeks now. REPLACE YOUR TIMING BELT EVERY 60K! I got my Tib at 64k so I didn't know, but now at 74k that belt had cracks all over it. I was so scared because if that broke...

So hopefully this helps in the future for someone else because timing belts are not to be taken lightly and even though my back hurt really really bad after doing this, it was worth it.
Mostly due to age, you likely had a timing belt tensioner starting to fail, thus the noise. Belts don't normally do this unless shredded.
Either way, some parts have miles limits, some (like belts and hoses) have miles AND time limits.
Example, a 2004 Tib with 10K miles and no major service done is fine on miles and waaaaayyyyyyy overdue on time. This is belts, hoses, most fluids, etc.

Glad yours is resolved.
 

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Got the same issue, and yes, SRI. Will fix that over the weekend.

The knocking/timing belt noise is caused by a seized time belt tensioner. Been there, done that, got the shirt. Hope you got the water pump replaced at the same time as the belt!
 
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