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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, this is long overdue as I've barely put 4000 miles on it in the last two years. This was my second car, first "project car" and was my favorite money pit for the last 7+ years. I've moved on to other projects (lifted '99 Subaru Impreza, '90 Suzuki DR350, '18 Yamaha MT-07) and I'm just no longer enjoying driving it or interested in continuing the build. I purchased this car at just under 110,000 miles in August of 2013. It was bone stock, pristine and fully un-molested when I bought it. Feel free to ask any quick questions here, but email is preferred to initiate contact. If you're serious we can swap numbers and chat more. Email at: [email protected]

2003 2.7 6 Spd GT - I/H/E, Mishimoto cooling, Megan coilovers, Enkei RPF1s, A/C and P/S deleted, LED lighting, etc..
Located in Reno, NV
152,942 miles
Asking $4500 (or $3000, see below)
Willing to drive a reasonable distance to deliver or meet halfway with partial payment up front. Also willing to make a deal for a bundle with any/all parts for sale here: Parts for Sale: NGM BBTB, Crower Cams, B&M Short...

There's a few more pictures below, but I can provide additional shots of anything you want to see, just let me know.
Album: Tiburon

Original engine and transmission, body has some damage but almost no rust (lived in AZ briefly, then CA most of its life, garaged almost every night since I bought it, and all of the last 3 winters). Interior is 70% stripped, the back seat, power steering, and A/C were removed (because racecar). All of the work listed here was done by my own two hands between November 2014 at 120,000 miles and April 2018 at 145,000 miles. For the record, I am now an ASE Master Technician and while I was definitely NOT when I started working on this car, I can assure you that proper maintenance and repair practices have always been observed. It was also on the alignment rack at the shop I worked at at least a dozen times over the course of all the steering and suspension work. Perks of being a mechanic (and an alignment specialist for a while). Like I said above, nobody else has put a wrench to this car since I bought it.

To clarify pricing: The wheel and tire package currently on the car is a set of Enkei RPF1s in 17x9 +35, powdercoated black with Continental ExtremeContact Sport summer tires in 245/40/17. I do also have a set of stock 17" aluminum wheels (also powdercoated black) with my old summer tires on them, and a full size spare. Due to the value of the Enkeis, I'm going to ask $4500 for the car as it is, with both sets of wheels and tires. I would also be willing to sell it for $3000 without the Enkeis, and I would just keep them for another car. Most of the value is in the parts and honestly if it doesn't sell, I would probably make more parting it out. But I'd rather sell it as a complete car, so here goes.

Oil changed every 3000 miles or 12 months - OEM filters and Royal Purple HMX 10W30
Redline 75W90 gear oil changed every 10,000 or so miles (last done at 145,000)
NGK Iridium spark plugs & NGK blue wires at 120,000
Gates timing belt and water pump at 120,000
Bosch 190 LPH fuel pump (and new fuel filters) at ~125,000
DC Sports ceramic coated headers, Random Technology high-flow catalytic converter welded in
DC Sports stainless 2.5" exhaust
Mishimoto aluminum radiator, silicone hoses, aluminum overflow reservoir and 2 x 12" fans
Power steering and A/C deleted (steering rack rebuilt/manual converted, short belt with "custom" tensioner for alternator)
Delrin shift cable & shifter base bushings
HEL braided stainless steel clutch line
Single mass flywheel & new clutch at 109,000
Both CV axles replaced around 140,000 with Import Direct (Oreillys brand)
Shark Racing short throw shifter (B&M shifter with custom stainless steel shift knob for sale separately)
Neztec billet aluminum oil fill cap

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels & Tires:
Megan Racing Street Series coilovers
DC Sports front and rear strut bars
Ultra Racing 23mm rear sway bar
Energy Suspension polyurethane sway bar bushings front and rear
Ingalls Smart Arms fully adjustable rear control arms
Moog sway bar end links, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods
Manual-converted steering rack (center seal cut off, rebuilt, greased and sealed)
Nolathane polyurethane front control arm bushings
Centric remanufactured calipers (replaced all four at 130,000, came loaded with Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads)
Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors
Stoptech braided stainless steel brake lines
All four hubs and wheel bearings were also replaced at 130,000
Enkei RPF1 wheels 17x9 +35 (powdercoated black, RPF1 center caps painted black)
Continental ExtremeContact Sport 245/40/17
McGard black chrome finish lug nuts w/ wheel locks

Sparco L777 leather steering wheel w/ Sparco fixed hub
Redline leather shift boot
Optima Yellowtop Group 51 AGM battery (mounted behind passenger seat)
Kenwood KDC X597 head unit (USB, Aux and Bluetooth Audio, 6 channel 4V pre-amp outputs)
FL 05-06 headlights and taillights (headlights plug and play using cleaned-up Shark Racing harness adapter set)
Profile Peak LED bulbs throughout (high beams, low beams, fog lights, turnback corners, rear turn signals and reverse lights)
Rear spoiler and rear wiper removed (holes were filled poorly, filler and paint starting to crack)
Custom painted black and blue Tuscani badges


Here you can see just how wide these tires are (even compared to slightly wider than stock size BFGoodrich Sport Comp-2 in 225/45/17 on the stock 17s mentioned above). Fenders are slightly rolled just to be safe, and they have absolutely no rubbing anywhere at the current ride height. These 245/40/17s with the +35 offset combination is just about as much meat as you can fit on these cars while keeping a perfectly square setup.

Yeah, the seat's splitting on the shoulder. And the floor doesn't look great with the sound deadening left on there. I had planned to get some Kirkeys, build a cage, finish shaving and bedline the whole floor pan, but obviously I never got to it. However, I kind of like the raw, analog feel it has that compliments the nature of this car: stiff and grippy with a ton of feedback and direct response (especially without power steering). I even drove it for the last few years without the center console in because I loved looking at the B&M shifter.

As stated above, there is some minor body damage to the left rear quarter panel and right front corner: fender slightly tweaked, bumper cracked and hood bent (headlights were replaced after front end damage). The quarter panel isn't really worth fixing but the front is just waiting for a carbon hood and FL bumper to complete the facelift. What's left of the interior is in decent shape.

Any questions or photo requests, let me know. Thanks for looking!

22 Posts
damn man what an amazing build! This is inspiring and very informative too, I can say I am interested if you do choose to part out the vehicle. just cause I have my own tib. I am Looking for tires/some body parts (headlights/door handles etc), but most importantly some catalytic converters. Good luck on selling your build bro! I live in LA and travel ALOT to Vegas, if luck comes my way we can figure something out. Until then good luck selling the car bro!
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