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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, for starters, I have an 03 GTv6, alpine sc. I use a Mafterburner stage 1. 440cc injectors

I can start the car, but she dies immediately

I recently installed the Bosch 190lph, after I thought the Walbro I had installed was broken because I couldnt get the fuel pressure below 50psi. Well, same problem. I have a ngm fpr but that wasnt changing anything so I put the OEM back on.

My voltage is at 3.511.

I did not drill/port the "Y piece" like it says in R100's DIY for the walbro install. Again, I now have the Bosch installed, and it seems like everyone else didnt have to do that.

I am pulling 60% fuel up to 1200rpms and tapering from there. I dont the the AFR because I cant get it to idle.

Any help is much appreciated.
 

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have you looked at your fuel trims? You can also try installing a variable resistor to lower your fuel pump voltage but from what I understand 50psi idle pressure is stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On hhop.com they were saying 38psi is stock.

im not sure i know what you mean by fuel trims?
 

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you do have your fpr hooked into a line that sees vacuum and boost right?

I would see what your fuel pressure is without vacuum and with vacuum... with vacuum for 03's should be around 38-40 psi. without it should go up, but I am curious to see how much it changes for you if you remove the vacuum line.

you don't know what fuel trims are? with a stage 3 apline you should definitely read up on fuel trims and how they can affect your tune!
 

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ah yes, forgot about the return system in the 03's. So basically your 50psi combined with your 440cc injectors is WAY too much fuel. You won't be able to subtract enough MAF voltage to get that to idle right.
 

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yea, make sure the FPR is seeing about 18-20hg of vacuum... that should bring you down hopefully. But about 38-40 psi is the normal stock idle fuel pressure on the return systems (depending on gauge it could read slightly different).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the fpr hooked up to the hose from the boost actuator and the rod/nipple that comes out of the side of the manifold.

As far as fuel trims, I will research asap. I do have a lot to learn. But my damn girlfriend sideswiped someone today so Im trying to make her Accord drive-able tonight.

Thanks for your guys help.

One thing though. Ive gone through 3 boost actuators prior to the NEW one i have installed.. I kept smashing the nipples off them before I had KJB motor mounts. But on this new one which I bought straight from Magnussen, the very tip of the nipple has a metal piece and the hole is like a pinpoint. All the previous actuators had at least a 1/4" end and no metal piece. Maybe its not reading the vaccuum?
 

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well, are you sure you got the right actuator?

and if you have any questions as to what vac. it is seeing, replumb your boost/vac. gauge to the line that the fpr is on, and see what vacuum the line has.

if you can, try to plumb the fpr to the manifold by itself. if not, do like i mentioned and test the vacuum on that line itself. If you are not having proper vacuum on that line, it will not hold the lower fuel pressure because of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
im pretty sure its the right one. Its just like the ngm actuator(shorter than the alpine) the only difference was that metal tip.

How can I test the vac without getting the car to idle.?

I am feeling like this could be the problem because I have all this crap ziptied, it is tight but I will check/tighten everything tomorrow night
 

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well, if you have stock injectors, zero out your tune and install those and see if it runs... it should even with the high fuel pressure (make sure to zero out the ecu too). It sucks to re-install those, but honestly it would rule out a lot of things, but would allow you to monitor vacuum at that point.

if you have a mafterburner and mafextender, you could flip another dipswitch or two to cut the voltage accross the board to try and cut more voltage to get it at least to idle... let it warm up and check vacuum then. edit: I see you have at least the mafterburner, so try cutting a little more fuel, and see what happens there. Go to -70% at 400, 800, 1200 and taper from there. You are cutting fuel at closed loop right? and implementing the changes (load and save) each time right?

another thing, I don't know how many boost/vac. ports you have on the alpine, but again home run the fpr if you can...or even cap the line to the boost actuator... it will be fine for startup/idle. it would just go into boost faster, but would rule out that section of hose etc... make sense? just try to eliminate things, but always reset the ecu when you try something else just in case.

oh, and how do you know what the fuel pressure is if you can't get it to idle? just what it is reading when you start it?
 

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hey guys i have a question.... im about to start my turbo build, and im going to be running 290cc injectors and a FPR on my 03.... some one told me that i should set the idle psi on the FPR to 50psi will this work?? thanks and sorry for hijacking this thread lol
 

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hey guys i have a question.... im about to start my turbo build, and im going to be running 290cc injectors and a FPR on my 03.... some one told me that i should set the idle psi on the FPR to 50psi will this work?? thanks and sorry for hijacking this thread lol
right, you should definitely start another thread for stuff like this, so go ahead and do it.

oh, and if you set the fpr to 50 psi, you will have driveability issues etc from it, so no, don't set it that high... stock is 38-40... set it to 40, make some pulls with the wideband hooked up and if you can't add enough fuel via tuner, then get bigger injectors, or up the pressure a tad, but too much and it will suck......
 

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LOL, good luck with you motor. Stage 3 in stock internals is too much. It will go soon after some good wot and good runs. :3_nosthum That's if its stock.
just watch the long term fuel trims...and the tune. if the tune starts to wander, it is most likely because of the ltft's, and the rest of the tune is off. that has taken down many a motor. but, if you are watching it all like a hawk, it should last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I do still have the stock injectors.
Also, I have a 7" crank pulley and an alky kit but neither are installed.
So Im not stage 2.5 yet, until I get this thing running right
.I have basically the setup that photoman had when he was at 11lbs
The car isnt a daily driver either.

You guys think I should zero the tune and put to stock injectors in.
How will that run with the blower on? lean?
 

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nah, you will run fine... you just don't want to boost! it would just be to see if you can get it to idle and drive (out of boost!) fine. You would just have to be careful, and if you can get it to run fine on the stockers, then put the bigger ones back in and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay. I had the car running almost perfectly in a stage 2 form and dynod at 263whp at one point. Then I kept pegging the maf so i bought the mafextender along with the upgraded crank pulley, alky, motor mounts, 440cc, etc.

I guess what my question is, what will putting the stock injectors back in rule out? I believe you but Im just not quite understanding.

Also, on the boost actuator, when I installed it, I was told to tighten the "allen screw" just enough until the "butterfly throttle" (located in the blower) was just slightly lifted. Im not sure this could effect much but maybe I did that wrong?

Ill take the blower off and see if I can get pics up.

Thanks
 

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Okay. I had the car running almost perfectly in a stage 2 form and dynod at 263whp at one point. Then I kept pegging the maf so i bought the mafextender along with the upgraded crank pulley, alky, motor mounts, 440cc, etc.

I guess what my question is, what will putting the stock injectors back in rule out? I believe you but Im just not quite understanding.
Thanks
It's always a matter of getting all of the info. :3_bier: So it was running at 50psi fuel pressure with which injectors? 290s? and you are replacing the actuator and added 440 injectors and and a pulley upgrade? and with the key on the fuel pressure gauge reads 50psi? and with the key off the fuel pressure reads something less and eventually falls all the way to zero? (hours or days later) and for step one, it's just a matter of getting it to start and idle, right?

It cranks normally? Not really fast or really slow?
Does it fire at all? pop? fart? sputter?
Are you holding the T.B. open while cranking or just normal starting procedure?
If it won't run and won't give you A/F readings, how do you know it's too rich?
When was the last time you reset the ECU?
what were your closed loop Mafter settings roughly when it was running with the 290s?
how do you know the 440s are good and not stuck open pissing fuel?

Just trying to help!
 

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good questions!

putting the stock fuel injectors in will rule out faulty 440's, and will also allow you to at least get the car running even on higher fuel pressure, so you can see if indeed the pressure is higher than stock, and also will allow you to check your idle vacuum when the car is warmed up, which will rule out a vac. leak and plumbing issues, but honestly reroute the boost/vac. gauge to join the line w/ the fpr to monitor that particular vac. so we aren't getting irregular vacuum to the fpr and therefore higher than normal idle fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It's always a matter of getting all of the info. :3_bier: So it was running at 50psi fuel pressure with which injectors? 290s? and you are replacing the actuator and added 440 injectors and and a pulley upgrade? and with the key on the fuel pressure gauge reads 50psi? and with the key off the fuel pressure reads something less and eventually falls all the way to zero? (hours or days later) and for step one, it's just a matter of getting it to start and idle, right?

It cranks normally? Not really fast or really slow?
Does it fire at all? pop? fart? sputter?
Are you holding the T.B. open while cranking or just normal starting procedure?
If it won't run and won't give you A/F readings, how do you know it's too rich?
When was the last time you reset the ECU?
what were your closed loop Mafter settings roughly when it was running with the 290s?
how do you know the 440s are good and not stuck open pissing fuel?

Just trying to help!

-yes, it was running with 290s and the local tuner had set the fuel pressure and i think it was between 45-50psi.(cant really remember but I didnt tinker with it until the car wouldnt keep idle)
-yes, changed actuator, injectors and pulley upgrade, but pulley isnt installed,
-yes, with key on, fuel pressure is at 48-50psi
-yes, the fuel pressure will fall to zero days later
-yes, i cant get it to keep running, it dies out
-ya, it cranks fairly normal
-no, just normal throttle procedure
-i think its rich because of the upgrades and it puffs a lil black smoke
-the ecu resets whenever the battery is out for days at a time, right? If thats the case, I reset the ecu twice a month
-Im not 100% sure it was you but I think I got the 440cc injectors from you, Duffer, and traded for my 290s? right? lol , i hope they work right

hope this helps.

Thanks again
 
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