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Discussion Starter #1
Well, a month ago the left rear brake line on my 03 popped so it was time for new fuel and brake lines (I was hoping to wait until spring but this was just the beginning of my bad luck this year... let's just say I haven't had a car to drive in over a month now). In the process of dropping the tank to get the fuel lines and that right rear brake line out, I discovered that my fuel tank had several holes in it too. Ugh. Got new line coils, 10 feet of hose, clamps, new universal retainers for the fuel line retainer blocks (because the factory ones are made of unobtainium like the filler neck), new tank valves (last one will be here Tuesday since they took 4 days before shipping my order), and new tank straps. I have no idea when the filler neck is going to get here from North Carolina... I only ordered it almost 3 weeks ago. Fuel tank came in painted, and I went over that with 2 coats of undercoating. Tank also came with a new passenger's side heat shield (good luck getting one of those from Hyundai as well...).

As I said to a friend of mine, I don't know what idiot engineer at Hyundai designed this fuel vapor vent system, but they should be hung... This car's vapor vent system is so overly complicated it's not funny. As I said in my intro post, this is my first non-domestic car... and I'm used to maybe 4 hoses coming off of the tank. Not to mention that the hoses are 4 different sizes... And that stupid metal line that merely goes from the back to the front of the tank just to connect the vapor canister to the hard line mounted to the body is just pointless... just something else to rot due to rust and set off the Engine light with a P0455.. yeah, that broke on both ends along with the end of the body line with the tank removal. Oh, and I just love the genius that decided to run the fuel lines around the power steering rack. Pulling those out (AFTER cutting the rest of the lines off under the car because of said genius) was almost an hour of my life I'm not going to get back... needless to say the new lines won't be doing that crap.

Couple questions arose over the last couple days...
1. There was some sort of valve in one of the vapor vent connections of the old tank by the filler neck (the one on the right when you're looking at it). I have it, but do I need it in the new tank? It's a nylon one-way valve with like some sort of orange rubbery stopper in it...
2. Old tank has some sort of green tube that extends into the tank in the filler neck hose connection. I can't get it out without cutting something (and there's still at least 5 gallons of gas in the tank so... yeah). How much do I need that?
3. Gas tank strap nuts... I have one. The other one is on the other 2/3 of the bolt that snapped off (plenty left behind to put a new nut on with the strap... good thing they're so long). They're both chewed to crap... they needed a Bolt-Out to bite into them to loosen. Anyone know the thread size? Looks like M10x1.5 but couldn't get that to thread at NAPA the other day. Can't find the blasted things in any online Hyundai parts diagram either.... they're not in fuel tank mounting nor rear frame rails. If someone maybe has a part number, I'd appreciate it.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon SE
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Get over the fact that it's not a GM or pre-OBD1/2 days. You want to talk bad engineering? Let's talk about mid 2000s Cadillacs. How about the mid 2000s Grand Am or the Alero. Talk about garbage engineering lol. I am also a long time GM guy. I've got a pair of 350s on engine stands in my garage as I write this now. They are a completely different breed of engineering and a minimum of 20+ years apart. There's a lot more going on in emissions controls even in the mid 2000s that you just can't cut out of the loop. I've worked on a lot of GM cars from the mid 2000s that are just as much of a PIA as the Tiburon.

So to your questions:

1. There a valve in one of the vapor vent connections of the old tank by the filler neck. Do I need it in the new tank?
Yes. You won't pass emissions if your EVAP system isn't functional. There is an EVAP emissions readiness monitor that needs a fully functional EVAP to complete. The EVAP leak isn't the only way to fail this.

2. Old tank has some sort of green tube that extends into the tank in the filler neck hose connection. How much do I need that?
Yes. You won't pass emissions if your EVAP system isn't functional. There is an EVAP emissions readiness monitor that needs a fully functional EVAP to complete. The EVAP leak isn't the only way to fail this.

3. Gas tank strap nuts... Anyone know the thread size? Looks like M10x1.5 but couldn't get that to thread at NAPA the other day.
Sorry I can't give you an exact part number or thread type because I've never had my tank out... You could try some of those SAE threads and see if they thread on. OEM parts are exclusively metric but I've come across a lot of aftermarket components from parts stores that are SAE. If those straps aren't OEM from 2003 then they're likely SAE rather than metric. If you're in the salt belt I would assume those components have already been replaced once.
 

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Being that I have graduated from an automotive technical college back in 2008, I am well aware of the I/M 240 baloney. Which is why I am still trying to also find an ECU that is programmed for a 6-speed as mine crapped out in the TPS circuit (sense wire shorted to 5V and no, it wasn't the wiring) and I have only been able to find a pair of them that are for automatics and therefore are throwing a P1602 (because, you know, the ECM is requesting a data link from a TCU that my 6-speed doesn't have). And, this being NY, can't be throwing a CEL and pass inspection. That being said, I don't see where that stupid dinky little one way valve next to the filler neck connection on the fuel tank has any sort of relevance. From what I can tell, that connection only goes back up the filler neck (I'd have to look as it's been almost a month since I pulled the hose off of it) and it vents INTO the tank, NOT the neck. Plus, one would think that there would be 2 of them but there's only the one. I mean, I'll put it in the new tank but I don't see the point in it. And as for the tube inside the filler neck connection, I can't get it out of the old tank without either cutting or a ton of force that will either distort or destroy it. It only comes out maybe a quarter of an inch. With a lot of force, I might add (probably fuel varnish or some sort of possible rust ridge). Looked the thing up in a diagram and found a pic on eBay... It's a friggin liquid fuel check valve. Has zero to do with EVAP. I'll try to get it out of the old tank again tomorrow (maybe it will help to dump the remaining gas out of the tank with it out) but worse comes to worse I'll get one off of eBay if I REALLY need it.

And yes, from everything I can see, with the car having only 107K on the clock, those were factory fuel tank parts... Looks like the gas tank was undercoated from the factory (looks the same as the rest of the undercoating on the underbelly) but somewhere along the line it went bad and allowed the tank to rust just above the seam on both sides. Only thing that looks like it was screwed with in the past is the sending unit as the access plate was all bent up the first time I saw it. Pretty much the only clamps that survived were the ones on the lines going directly into the sending unit and that weird vent tube right next to it (cheap spring clamps suck... as many as possible are getting replaced with fuel injection hose clamps including the ones for the filler neck hose as I literally had to cut that clamp off).

This is not my first rodeo doing this... this is the third car I've had in a row needing new fuel and brake lines (but not a tank as luckily those were plastic). Last car before this one was an 05 Cavalier (rear frame rails rotted out but other than that would have gone on forever) and the one before that was an 01 Sunfire (I got lucky that rust bucket lasted a full year). And everybody knows Cadillac sucks... I refused to complete my training course 2 years ago because I had to sit through a 20 minute video and then test on those POS's, which was completely irrelevant to my job training for the parts counter (somehow my genius service director and whomever else it was that set up the training program decided it would be a good idea for me to suffer through all of the training BS that was directed towards Parts Managers and Warranty Claims Adjusters). Yeah, yeah, yeah... I went and paid $35K to go to school to end up working behind a parts counter 5 years after I graduated because of broken promises and more BS than I could take... plus I had to get out of the part time grocery store job... my father literally died 6 days after I quit the store and I needed something full time.
 

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Being that I have graduated from an automotive technical college back in 2008, I am well aware of the I/M 240 baloney. Which is why I am still trying to also find an ECU that is programmed for a 6-speed as mine crapped out in the TPS circuit (sense wire shorted to 5V and no, it wasn't the wiring) and I have only been able to find a pair of them that are for automatics and therefore are throwing a P1602 (because, you know, the ECM is requesting a data link from a TCU that my 6-speed doesn't have). And, this being NY, can't be throwing a CEL and pass inspection. That being said, I don't see where that stupid dinky little one way valve next to the filler neck connection on the fuel tank has any sort of relevance. From what I can tell, that connection only goes back up the filler neck (I'd have to look as it's been almost a month since I pulled the hose off of it) and it vents INTO the tank, NOT the neck. Plus, one would think that there would be 2 of them but there's only the one. I mean, I'll put it in the new tank but I don't see the point in it. And as for the tube inside the filler neck connection, I can't get it out of the old tank without either cutting or a ton of force that will either distort or destroy it. It only comes out maybe a quarter of an inch. With a lot of force, I might add (probably fuel varnish or some sort of possible rust ridge). Looked the thing up in a diagram and found a pic on eBay... It's a friggin liquid fuel check valve. Has zero to do with EVAP. I'll try to get it out of the old tank again tomorrow (maybe it will help to dump the remaining gas out of the tank with it out) but worse comes to worse I'll get one off of eBay if I REALLY need it.

And yes, from everything I can see, with the car having only 107K on the clock, those were factory fuel tank parts... Looks like the gas tank was undercoated from the factory (looks the same as the rest of the undercoating on the underbelly) but somewhere along the line it went bad and allowed the tank to rust just above the seam on both sides. Only thing that looks like it was screwed with in the past is the sending unit as the access plate was all bent up the first time I saw it. Pretty much the only clamps that survived were the ones on the lines going directly into the sending unit and that weird vent tube right next to it (cheap spring clamps suck... as many as possible are getting replaced with fuel injection hose clamps including the ones for the filler neck hose as I literally had to cut that clamp off).

This is not my first rodeo doing this... this is the third car I've had in a row needing new fuel and brake lines (but not a tank as luckily those were plastic). Last car before this one was an 05 Cavalier (rear frame rails rotted out but other than that would have gone on forever) and the one before that was an 01 Sunfire (I got lucky that rust bucket lasted a full year). And everybody knows Cadillac sucks... I refused to complete my training course 2 years ago because I had to sit through a 20 minute video and then test on those POS's, which was completely irrelevant to my job training for the parts counter (somehow my genius service director and whomever else it was that set up the training program decided it would be a good idea for me to suffer through all of the training BS that was directed towards Parts Managers and Warranty Claims Adjusters). Yeah, yeah, yeah... I went and paid $35K to go to school to end up working behind a parts counter 5 years after I graduated because of broken promises and more BS than I could take... plus I had to get out of the part time grocery store job... my father literally died 6 days after I quit the store and I needed something full time.
Lucky for you I'm reverse engineering our ECMs and I'm a good resource for that. Unfortunately there aren't any identifiers on the outside of the ECM that indicate whether it's a manual/automatic ECM that I'm aware of. Which ECM are you looking for specifically? The 2Mbit with G4/G8 on the ECM socket or the 4Mbit with Z4/Z8/ZC on the socket? I have an extra 2Mbit G8 manual ECM I'd be willing to trade you for your auto ECM if you bought one by mistake. I'm looking to find the flag/switch in the ECMs code that determines whether it's a manual or automatic but haven't pulled the trigger on the auto ECMs yet. If you have an auto ECM on hand would you mind taking a pic of all the labels/stickers for me?

When I say it's a "part of EVAP" that is loosely defined. The tube that goes to the filler neck is just to equalize pressure while filling up your tank. However, we have many complaints come up where people can't even fill their tank and it's somehow linked to the EVAP cannister being clogged with fuel or the EVAP valve being faulty. Seems unrelated I know, but it's a common problem. If the two aren't linked they still seem to affect each other anyway. The OEM EVAP and venting system works as is so why try to re-invent the wheel? Remove those lines and vents if you want but you'll probably have trouble filling your tank as a result. My fuel system is not a return style like yours so I can't say with certainty if it's going to affect you the same way. You've got two fuel lines AND an EVAP line to the engine bay where-as I only have one fuel line and one EVAP line to the engine bay.

107k seems low for so much rust. Doesn't seem like fixing up older vehicles from the NorthEast coast is worth it. I've got 120k on the clock and still very little rust. We don't salt our roads out here in Seattle unless the conditions require it. That only happens maybe once every 10 years.

I feel your frustration with the automotive industry though. I was training in high school between '99 and '03 through AYES/VICA and had shitloads of credit towards ASE certification at my local college. The program was still kind of new at the time and seemed to be lacking a lot so I bailed on it and went with another career path. All of my friends that went through the program eventually landed a parts gig at NAPA/Oreillys, joined the Military.... or committed suicide. So fsck those cookie cutter vocational training programs.
 

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Engineers that design cars any production cars of any brand, they do not consider repairs. They're designing and building a brand new car to be made in a mass production facility...... I understand that the evap system on our cars is incredibly sensitive and will cripple the car if not properly maintained. It is a bunch of hoses and bull crap and it really sucks. I would have done things very different if I were you but you're this far already...... Good luck
 
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