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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I love this car(06 v6), its so me in many ways. And I'm sentimental by nature, and its my first car, my 1st gf, and my 1st love they're different gals btw lasted very very long, and like any gal I'm gentle and rough with it okay anyways,

My intention was to replace parts before they fail, my konig ampliforms are waiting, and a paint job is coming still undecided on body mods though nothing crazy, i dont like widebodies, i love the car for its size so i want to keep it that way, just replaced the headlights, basically its going to look new/clean soon, my goals are efficiency and I don't intend to turbo/supercharge and its also my daily.

I initially bought cheap coilovers $280 for the set XD and loved it so I have had it swapped to arks and just got the ark exhaust, a cheapo exhaust is on now.

it started with me @ 95k miles, timing belt never changed, sparks done only once, I added a AEM CAI, budget coils and budget catback it improved mpg, i was getting around 25-35mpg highway, as my mpg dropped as months went on my savings grew XD and I collected parts to have one big job done by a mechanic which was a mistake because it didnt make me learn more about it hands on, but research wise Ive read and read and still have a lot to learn, anyone by norcal teach/show/repair for me, me money/beers for you.

new wires(NTK) to go with plugs(bosch) with new ignition coil(delphi),
new timing belt, belt drive, water pump and applicable components
New MAFs, TPS(both was done a diff time when old MAF malfunction the day I had CAI and exhuast installed)
didnt have to clutch slave cylinder mod but replaced it
new crank and camshaft sensors
Has Ark Coilovers now to replace the budget coilovers which is so much better paired with front oem hyundai strut link(will need to tinker with this, and get an alignment, should I get alignment before or after the rims?) just got the rims, new issue.
I got some cheap($90, but that does not mean without quality right?) american made headers via ebay which came from Rocklin, CA an hour north of me, we cut off ebay and I gots discount.
Trans fluid and engine fluid changed.

With all that in hopes to preserve and improve the mpg I've been getting with old parts that are about to give out and over a decade old. My mpg dropped I got it from the shop "today" I drove it hard. I of course cruise around before I do, when I got home the UIM oozed darkbrown sticky sludge(yes seems like a gasket issue, but I told them to replace every gasket of a part they had to open that had a gasket, just confirmed ) if not I"ll start doing it myself because I want to get to know this baby some more if I wanna ride it for a long time. if they did what else could be wrong? other than that and based on my research seemed like a clogged PCV so I checked and it wasnt super clogged but definitely some flow restriction w/ a lil sludge so I replaced it.

MPG definitely dropped I can tell! and power is not there, cause I'm telling you it had more power and snap to it with them old plugs, and oil was 5k mi.+ old, with eww coilovers, and just Intake and budget catback,

Now it has less power, less mpg, with new headers, new oil, new plugs, the rear o2 sensors have not been attached though, cant reach and not enough space on header does that cause lower mpg? and yes CEL. The headers have also been bolted on not welded with the budget catback, . Exhaust leak? I forgot to tell them to use the old gaskets, and maybe they used the ones provided which by popular knowledge is a bad idea, with intake leak?(i've seafoamed it twice 1k+miles before the big job which I heard destroys gaskets and frees up or moves sludge around) what else could possibly be wrong? I wanted to know what it felt like having a header and got bummed, I couldnt bring it back to shop because I got it 20min before they closed but tomorrow they'll get a call. Though I'd like to brainstorm with the REAL experts.

Help/advise? fellow tibby lovers out there and any tibby enthusiast from norcall close to me? help a brother out. the Ark exhaust is waiting, new rims and paint job..

To those who help I deeply appreciate it. I wish you the serenity to accept the things you cant change, the courage to change the things you can and the wisdom to know the difference.

to answer first reply to dmdicks
dang i forgot even though i reviewed my post, i added it in edit, and its 06 v6, shouldnt that model be easier to avoid header CEL?

other than the word of the shop supervisor I have no way of verfying if timing has been set to specs, thanks for that I will look into this thru research and/or advises as to how to determine this

I somewhat agree because I've recently read about the issues but I myself have not experience any yet, but I have just ordered OEM MAF cause when I spoke to the mech he said he forgot the brand but he knows for sure it wasnt an OEM replacement, for crankshaft thats just for starting the car right? no issues yet so i'll leave as is though what I picked was the rockauto most recommended one.

to charlie: yes, yes and yes,

4th ?: I just had them today, they fit fine, konig ampliforms 17x8 offset 40, my new issue is that only my rear left tire wall is rubbing on the spring lock , already has shaved off rubber and left a lil mark on my tirewall though all other 3 are okay and no fender hits havent tried supper hard cornering or heavy load but so far so good, will eventually have the rolled

now for that rear driver side coilover, its either spacer then ill really need rolled fenders, or imo easier after the tires are due to be replaced a lesser aspect ratio tire, at the moment i have 225/45/17 tires, i like em a lil fat actually but seems like i cant anymore and actually because of this I found out that the sway link bushing of that area is messed up and the link itself is a lil bent or crooked, no wonder it feels like the rear end slips or slides during hard rights, does replacing that help? im assuming no but at least found something that needed fixing/replacing,

defiintely not soft tires jus had them moved over to the konigs with all the bells and whisltes, brakes hmm actually im not sure, I actually have replaced the rotors with slotted and drilled ones when the pads wore out and the first one that wore out was the rear passenger side one because it had a delay in clamp release when break pedal wasnt pressed anymore, it cracked the rear right rotor, mind you the car is so much lighter, i almost never carry passengers, nor luggages, no extra tire, no jack, no engine cover, etc not supper stripped but somewhat, plus i only weigh 135lbs(i box and used to compete, its called weight management) not sure if that issue was fixed when new pads with rotors where replaced though eyeballing the current pads dont show uneven wear

how to detect intake leaks? constantly has cel and dunno how to detect others was always fine before because rear o2 sensors not connected header fitment doesnt allow it and the shop too lazy to find a solution, i on the other hand too inexperienced, also not entirely sure what you mean by after the maf so the tubing after maf basically the tubing in between may have leaks? will check.

To those who help I deeply appreciate it. I wish you the serenity to accept the things you cant change, the courage to change the things you can and the wisdom to know the difference.
 

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You didn't list what year Tib you have? Its its an 07-08 Then the ECUs are definitely more finicky towards mods and headers in particular.

You have the timing belt kit with pump in your list, does that means its been done? If so verify that the timing marks all line up as improperly set timing can adversely affect economy/performance.

Use ONLY OEM sensors for critical stuff like the crankshaft sensor, O2 sensors and MAF sensor. Anything else is garbage and will cause issues.

Are the secondary O2 sensors still disconnected? If so that will cause performance issues as the ECU will dump more fuel and retard timing to try to keep the engine safe.
 

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We are guessing a V6?

Coils.....you mean springs for suspension?

When you post "XD", I assume you are doing a smiley?

Alignment.....do after replacing suspension bits. If wide rims, you may need to either roll fenders or add camber to clear fenders.

Soft tires can drop mileage.
A hanging brake can drop mileage.
Intake leaks after the MAF can drop mileage.

Any CEL's? If so, what are the codes. Also check for pending codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@dmdicks replies are on the bottom of my 1st post, just edited cause needed to add stuff. @Charlie-IIIsame as above, and yes alignment will be done today will upda

ive read about resetting the ecu? but at the same time its continuously collecting data right? and finding out the optimal pattern to apply, i think exhaust air flow is not efficient and that gasket may be leaking, how do you find out? im only assuming here since it seems some oil on exhaust gasket area but its color transparent though,

also just recently found out my hood doesnt seal in flush, on drive side >_<
 
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