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Discussion Starter #1
ok, so i just finished putting in new plugs and wires, and the car won't start...

basically it starts, but then it dies... and it sounds kinda "hollow"... when i take the key out of the ignition and step out of the car, there's a buzzing sound which stops after the "tick"- when the current stops...

if i give gas i can make it stay for 1 second or so, but then it dies... sounds really weird... the plug wires are weird, i couldn't get them to go all the way down (not on the spark plug, on the other end)... i don't know if that's the way they should go, but they just pop up a little after i try to push them down...

they're the ZEX hyperformance plugs and magstar plug wires... the plugs just have 3 electrodes instead of 1, and they're gapped.. but i put them in well, not extremely tight but pretty tight. I have a feeling it's the wires, but how do i make them fit right?
could this be a vacuum hose problem? i'm sure i put all the vacuum hoses back on... i put the grounding strip back, all the connections...

please help!
 

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Sam:Moderator of the Dead
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You have the wires in the right sequence? I have never heard of Magstar wires, they could possibly be the wrong size.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
yeah i do...

i got the same ones photoman has... check the product review section

also i remember disconnecting a vacuum hose, and it went like "psshh", like it was pressurized.. don't think that would make a difference tho,... i disconnected it from the big round thing on the firewall- brake boot or smthn. but i don;'t think that's a big deal, is it? i could have disconnected it from the intake manifold, but i disconnected it from the other side cuz it was easier.

i'm, just wondering if this is vacuum/air related, or if it's electrical... i think tomorrow i'm going to put the stock wires back on because they "click"/ "slide" into place at the wire boot (oppositte end to the spark plugs).
 

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viva_brasil said:
yeah i do...

i got the same ones photoman has... check the product review section

also i remember disconnecting a vacuum hose, and it went like "psshh", like it was pressurized.. don't think that would make a difference tho,... i disconnected it from the big round thing on the firewall- brake boot or smthn. but i don;'t think that's a big deal, is it? i could have disconnected it from the intake manifold, but i disconnected it from the other side cuz it was easier.

i'm, just wondering if this is vacuum/air related, or if it's electrical... i think tomorrow i'm going to put the stock wires back on because they "click"/ "slide" into place at the wire boot (oppositte end to the spark plugs).
pm Photoman, maybe he could help you out
 

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Discussion Starter #6
RedTibby04 said:
If you disconnected the Brake Booster vacuum, then if its not connected back the car won't run.
i did connect it back. i was just saying that i disconnected it at the brake booster instead of at the IM... doesn't make a differenc,e i 'm just analyzing every single detail.

is there an order to the spark plugs? The new ones were just in a box and i picked them out at random as i put them in... they all look the same so i'm assuming the order doesn't matter (what cylinder each one goes to)...

do the plugs need to fire to turn the engine, or to get it to start for a fraction of a second?
there's osmething that's not happening (makes the engine stop and sound like osmething is missing), and i think it's the spark...

any ideas?
 

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Sam:Moderator of the Dead
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If it fires at all, then its not the plugs. Kinda sounds like a vacuum issue. And just as long as you hooked the booster vacuum back up, you are ok. There is no specific order for the plugs either, just the wires.. I am still leaning towards the wires being put on wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i was wondering if the fact that the engine turns and starts/runs for a fraction of a second means that the spark plugs ARE firing for sure, of if the engine could turn and start/run for a fraction of a second without the plugs firing...

if it was a vacuum issue, i think it would run, it just would be really unstable... it's not running at all.
thanks for the input Redtib.
 

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viva_brasil said:
i was wondering if the fact that the engine turns and starts/runs for a fraction of a second means that the spark plugs ARE firing for sure, of if the engine could turn and start/run for a fraction of a second without the plugs firing...

if it was a vacuum issue, i think it would run, it just would be really unstable... it's not running at all.
thanks for the input Redtib.
No, without the plugs the engine will not run at all. the engine may run on 2 or 3 plugs at the very very minimum, but at least that many must be working.
 

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1- make sure you have the plug wires on the right coil packs (right order)
2- If they do not "click" on the coil packs just take a pair of pliers and gently squeese the connector on the plug wire to make it fit snugger (mine fit fine)
3- I am not a fan of those multi-electrode plugs, they run like crap on some cars.

The psst was from your brake booster, no big deal.

It sounds like one of your plugs or plug wires are not making a connection. Make sure your plugs are in plenty tight or you will pull in air in that cyl and make it run lean.

You can pull one plug at a time, stick it in the boot and turn the car over to see if each one gets spark. I think if you just squeese the connectors like I told you it will work fine though.
 

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first thing to do is go double check everything. make sure u got the wires in the right order on the cap and to the spark plugs. make sure everything is tighten down and all hoses are on. then next step IMO would be puttng back on the old wires
 

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I'm not even going to read everyone else's posts cus I had the same problem.

Vaccuum leak.

When you put the upper IM back on, tighten the bolts from teh inside out, even if this means the rear support no longer can be bolted on. Screw it.

Double check that you have the throttle body on correctly. The big metal piece that acts as a holder for the vaccuum line underneath the throttle body goes on the OUTSIDE of teh throttle body (I made this mistake too lol).

Try that.

Then write us back and let us know that it works perfectly. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
wallytiburon said:
I'm not even going to read everyone else's posts cus I had the same problem.

Vaccuum leak.

When you put the upper IM back on, tighten the bolts from teh inside out, even if this means the rear support no longer can be bolted on. Screw it.

Double check that you have the throttle body on correctly. The big metal piece that acts as a holder for the vaccuum line underneath the throttle body goes on the OUTSIDE of teh throttle body (I made this mistake too lol).

Try that.

Then write us back and let us know that it works perfectly. :D
that's freakin hilarious... i really hope that's the issue because that's exactly what i did!!! i remember putting that metal piece between the TB and the IM!!! and i need to tighten the IM down more... i stopped once everything was back together to eat lunch but i think i didn't tighten everything as tight as it could go...

but i'm pretty sure it's the metal piece between the TB and IM. if it's still not working, then i'm gonna change the wires back to stock but i need hte plugs for the Nitrous.

thanks wallytib!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, fixed it this morning... it was the TB. It's running now, at first it was slightly hesitant with the idle having to adjust (i think the ECU was getting used to the new plugs, idk), and it was a cold start- and the new plugs work better when the engine is warmed up/hot.

tho looking at the engine while it's idling, it twitches/shakes randomly... it didn't do this before, and it's pretty significant- the intake moves. maybe i'm still worried from yesterday, but i have no CELs or anything, and it's idling perfectly... but when i open the hood and watch the engine, it jitters/twitches, then it stays in place for a while, then does it again... etc. etc.
is this a problem at all?

thanks guys for all the input!
 

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viva_brasil said:
ok, fixed it this morning... it was the TB. It's running now, at first it was slightly hesitant with the idle having to adjust (i think the ECU was getting used to the new plugs, idk), and it was a cold start- and the new plugs work better when the engine is warmed up/hot.

tho looking at the engine while it's idling, it twitches/shakes randomly... it didn't do this before, and it's pretty significant- the intake moves. maybe i'm still worried from yesterday, but i have no CELs or anything, and it's idling perfectly... but when i open the hood and watch the engine, it jitters/twitches, then it stays in place for a while, then does it again... etc. etc.
is this a problem at all?

thanks guys for all the input!
Maybe it has epilepsy?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
took it out to drive around some... it warmed up much quicker and drove very nicely... in the beginning, when i let off the clutch in 1st gear to engage and start moving, it felt like the engine moved... once it was warmed up i didn't feel it anymore.
then back home i opened the hood and watched the eninge, and it didn't shake around anymore.

thanks again guys.
 

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Glad you have the issue sorted out , just want to mention that i hope you used anti-sieze on the plug threads and di-electric grease on the wires . If you didn't you might want to pull the plugs now and do it because they may not come out later .
 
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