hi-flow cat or test pipe???
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4-2-1 headers?i drive an 05 v6 automatic. i have the borla catback. im lookin to buy the dc sports 4-2-1 headers, should i go hi flow cat or test pipe? i wanna consider everything, from a legal standpoint and power.
Cat
yeah they are on the aem website, nice *** tib by the way. mine is balck on black also
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the 4-2-1 stands for that there would be 4 pipes bolted to the motor, then they would join to 2 pipes and then finally to 1 pipe... that's for a 4 cylinder engine (or a V8 with a set of 2)
The V6 has 2 banks of 3 cylinders... so there's no way you can have 4-2-1 headers on a V6... and i think the DC headers (and all other headers) for the tib are 3-1...
if you want to get a cat installed i suggest getting a set of headers where the downpipe is shorter, and it connects to a "test pipe" or "race cat" before connecting to the cat-back system... the "test pipe" or "race cat" (same thing) is just a hollow straight-through pipe which bolts up on either end... you get an exhaust shop to cut off the flanges and weld it onto a hi-flow cat and then bolt that back onto the car...
no damage/cutting/welding to the headers.
PLUS the DC headers are ceramic coated, so you would have to cut into that to weld on a hi-flow cat..
just to clarify, the DCs are like this:
engine ----------headers------------ ------------------cat-back-----------------------
engine:collectors:long downpipe:cat-back mid-pipe:mufflers/rear section
SSAs:
engine -------------------------headers----------- ----------------cat-back------------------------
engine:collectors:short downpipe:test pipe:cat-back mid-pipe:mufflers/rear section
the ":" represent separation and bolts that hold it together, so you would take the test-pipe section and replace it with a hi-flow cat.
hope that helps.
The V6 has 2 banks of 3 cylinders... so there's no way you can have 4-2-1 headers on a V6... and i think the DC headers (and all other headers) for the tib are 3-1...
if you want to get a cat installed i suggest getting a set of headers where the downpipe is shorter, and it connects to a "test pipe" or "race cat" before connecting to the cat-back system... the "test pipe" or "race cat" (same thing) is just a hollow straight-through pipe which bolts up on either end... you get an exhaust shop to cut off the flanges and weld it onto a hi-flow cat and then bolt that back onto the car...
no damage/cutting/welding to the headers.
PLUS the DC headers are ceramic coated, so you would have to cut into that to weld on a hi-flow cat..
just to clarify, the DCs are like this:
engine ----------headers------------ ------------------cat-back-----------------------
engine:collectors:long downpipe:cat-back mid-pipe:mufflers/rear section
SSAs:
engine -------------------------headers----------- ----------------cat-back------------------------
engine:collectors:short downpipe:test pipe:cat-back mid-pipe:mufflers/rear section
the ":" represent separation and bolts that hold it together, so you would take the test-pipe section and replace it with a hi-flow cat.
hope that helps.
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Umm you have a v6. 4-2-1 are for the i4s
oh well glad someone told me, cuz the website specifically said they would fit my v6. so what you're saying is i should get a test pipe and hi flow cat??? im a little confused
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ok. you CAN still get the DC headers if you want. they're the best headers for the money in my opinion. BUT if you want to weld in a hi-flow cat, you're going to have to cut a piece of the downpipe off, and weld the cat on...
why would you not want to do that with the DCs? they're ceramic coated, so you have to cut through that, adn then weld a stainless steel cat onto the ceramic coated steel.
If you look at the little diagram thing i drew, it shows that the DCs have the collectors (two things with the 3 pipes coming together) and one long pipe that joins the 2 collectors. That long pipe is the down pipe. That will connect to the mid-pipe from your exhaust (cat-back or stock).
the SSA headers (and other similar brands) have the 2 collectors, that join to one downpipe (exactly like the DC headers), except the downpipe is shorter, and it bolts onto another pipe, which THEN bolts onto the exhaust mid-pipe. That intermediary pipe is called a "test pipe" or a "race cat"... it's just a hollow pipe.
THIS system is better if you want to weld on a hi-flow cat because you can just take that intermediary pipe, cut off the edges, weld that onto the hi-flow cat (which is a pipe with a honey-comb like interior), and then just bolt it back onto the exhaust... That way you won't be cutting the downpipe, or welding the cat directly to the downpipe...
understand?
pics. would help... go to ebay.com and type in "DC headers Tiburon"... they should have a set on sale, and that's the only place that i found an accurate picture of the headers (other places picture a random 4-2-1 set for some honda or other application). Then search "SSA headers Tiburon", or just "headers Tiburon", and look for SSAutochrome... there you will see the shorter downpipe, and test pipe.
oh, and the best place to buy DC headers is from kjbmotors.com. $425 shipped. Ptuning.com also has them.
best place to buy SSAs are on E-bay... i think they're around $290 shipped.
Keep the installation in mind. it will be expensive if you don't do it yourself or with a friend!!
....
why would you not want to do that with the DCs? they're ceramic coated, so you have to cut through that, adn then weld a stainless steel cat onto the ceramic coated steel.
If you look at the little diagram thing i drew, it shows that the DCs have the collectors (two things with the 3 pipes coming together) and one long pipe that joins the 2 collectors. That long pipe is the down pipe. That will connect to the mid-pipe from your exhaust (cat-back or stock).
the SSA headers (and other similar brands) have the 2 collectors, that join to one downpipe (exactly like the DC headers), except the downpipe is shorter, and it bolts onto another pipe, which THEN bolts onto the exhaust mid-pipe. That intermediary pipe is called a "test pipe" or a "race cat"... it's just a hollow pipe.
THIS system is better if you want to weld on a hi-flow cat because you can just take that intermediary pipe, cut off the edges, weld that onto the hi-flow cat (which is a pipe with a honey-comb like interior), and then just bolt it back onto the exhaust... That way you won't be cutting the downpipe, or welding the cat directly to the downpipe...
understand?
pics. would help... go to ebay.com and type in "DC headers Tiburon"... they should have a set on sale, and that's the only place that i found an accurate picture of the headers (other places picture a random 4-2-1 set for some honda or other application). Then search "SSA headers Tiburon", or just "headers Tiburon", and look for SSAutochrome... there you will see the shorter downpipe, and test pipe.
oh, and the best place to buy DC headers is from kjbmotors.com. $425 shipped. Ptuning.com also has them.
best place to buy SSAs are on E-bay... i think they're around $290 shipped.
Keep the installation in mind. it will be expensive if you don't do it yourself or with a friend!!
....
wow alright i got it, and i really appreciate the help. thanks alot
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no prob. that's what the forums are for... just ask questions if you're unsure about anything.
good luck.
good luck.
no CATS! come on people!
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o, and you were wondering from a legal standpoint... it's illegal, and it's bad for the environment... it lets more bad stuff go in the air, and it creates sound pollution.
from a power standpoint, it should add about 12-15hp WITH a tuner (which is highly recommended). you lose a small amount of power in the low to mid-range (less if it is tuned), and oyu gain a lot in the upper-range, which is where the tib usually drops off...
from a power standpoint, it should add about 12-15hp WITH a tuner (which is highly recommended). you lose a small amount of power in the low to mid-range (less if it is tuned), and oyu gain a lot in the upper-range, which is where the tib usually drops off...
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