ASIAN PACK1.bin
ASIAN PACK2.bin
EUROPEAN PACK1.bin
EUROPEAN PACK2.bin HYUNDAI KIA.bin
KOREAN.bin
USA AUSTRALIA.bin
Hi-Scan Pro User Manual included. This software is not DEMO, but instead FULLY FUNCTIONAL. No installation required - package (.exe) may be executed directly from a flash drive or saved to your local drive for permanent residence.
Clear ABS and SRS MIL's, program keyless-entry transmitters (see caution), initiate automatic transmission 'retrain' and many other dealer-level options including the ability to actuate modules and observe numerous sensor readings in real-time.
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CASCADE Limitation:
"No automatic pin switching. The original [Hi-Scan Pro] diagnostic interface and corresponding cable is able to connect to ECU's with the K-line on pins other than 7 on the OBD connector. The low-price USB interfaces used with CASCADE do not have that capability, so it may be required to physically modify the OBD interface in order to be able to connect to such ECU's."
This should allow for nearly full control and diagnostics of the ECU, BCM, SRS and ABS modules for a total investment of less than $60. You may of course build your own cable as opposed to using a breakout box, for working exclusively on Hyundai vehicles. To use the program with other makes & models may require undocumented mods, or none whatsoever.
Thanks in advance to everyone for their contributions.
Big hat-tip to airkix72 for the official Hi-Scan Pro user guide, his testing of various ODB2 cables, breakout-box pin-out and more.
Here's to a new revolution in Tiburon DYI engine management.
I'm looking for a local parts car, '07 or '08 GT. It'd be nice if it had power/battery & ECU operational. I'd try to talk the manager into letting me burn on it a minute, lol. Not likely if I expressed any potential risk.. "You break it, you buy it..." But really, I don't want to hose my EPROM(s). Think it'll be 'aight. I have the Air Bag MIL 24/7 now, myself. It showed up a few hours (yep, hours) after disconnecting the passenger airbag indicator (right-side of clock) in removing the center bezel for my audio work. I'm hoping it's just warning due to the open switch, vanish after ECU reset & upon reconnecting it... Can hope. I won't pull the fuse to 'make it go away', my O.C.D. compels me to find the root cause & fix it right.
Won't know until I do the final assembly & bind/loom my cables behind the dash. It's packed with XM hardware under the head unit, thick DIN cables, etc.
I went on the hunt for a viable copy of Hi-Scan, & the ROM's we'd need to manipulate & test these machines at a dealer level. I wanted to test the IAC value loose in my hand before re-attaching the throttle body (post cleaning). Our cars, with dedicated (and availability of parts) will have great longevity when we can see the full picture & not just ECU/engine fault codes, BCU & everything...
I haven't found a software solution for manipulating the pinouts, but that'd be elegant. In any case, when we find K-Lines that must be 'moved' for a given set of tests, we'll definitely document it all & I'll revise that package.
I'm thinking... CASCADE's developer was paid-off by the Hyundai consortium to cease making it available for purchase, a quiet contract if you will. Coinciding with the HyundaiTechInfo site turning to subscriptions.
We bought their machines, we maintain our own $hit & can figure things out. We need these things.
First off, thanks @NxTC1275 for putting that package together.
The pinout box was worth it so go ahead and get that but DO NOT buy the adapters he has listed, they are NOT FDTI chipsets.
I bought both, neither worked, so I researched and found the right adapters (btw these both work with openECU, the DIY tuner app, here's the link for that if you wanna venture down that road) get this one
Once you have one of those adapters (or any FDTI chipset), download the adapter drivers, if these drivers don't work, then your chipset is not compatible.
if it worked, in the cascade emulator in the bottom right corner in the interface box it should have you adapter listed. If it does, you are golden. (see picture)
I successfully
- cleared my airbag light (jump 7 and 12 on the pinout box when it tells you to switch cables)
- found out why my abs light was on. (jump 7 and 8 on pinout)
- checked flight data (for ****s and giggles)
- check DTC code history
- real time wheel speed sensor (jump 7 and 14)(the car wasn't moving so all was zeroed out but it did work)
The Emulator works flawlessly so far in windows XP (had problems loading the rom til I cleared off read only on the files), I will post more when I get a chance to mess with it later tonight.
Great to hear! I've ordered one of these Chinese adapters but cannot tell what type of chipset it uses. If it fails I'll be picking up one you recommended.
Soon we'll need to chomp on creating a definitive guide for its use to save everyone else the experimental drama & wasted money on incompatible adapters.
I believe you can pair up the key fobs without having to use software. Thought there was a key on/off sequence that's been guarded. Will look for it...
Soon we'll need to chomp on creating a definitive guide for its use to save everyone else the experimental drama & wasted money on incompatible adapters.
I believe you can pair up the key fobs without having to use software. Thought there was a key on/off sequence that's been guarded. Will look for it...
My understanding is that there is a way to make your keyfobs work again if there was an issue..... but, no way to do "button pushes", etc. to pair new ones or to pair to a different BCM.
My understanding is that there is a way to make your keyfobs work again if there was an issue..... but, no way to do "button pushes", etc. to pair new ones or to pair to a different BCM.
1. Sit in the driver's seat of your Hyundai vehicle. Close all of
the vehicle's doors behind you.
2. Stick the key to your Hyundai into the vehicle's ignition
cylinder . Turn the key to the "ACC" or "Accessory" ignition
position.
3. Hold down the "Open" or "Unlock" button on the keyless
entry FOB until the vehicle's lights flash. The keyless entry
FOB is now reprogrammed to your Hyundai vehicle.
I need a key code from my VIN#, but without HyundaiTechInfo... can't find any local locksmiths able to 'originate' a key (not mechanical copy). I have one key fob & one key, period. Suspect the key is a copy of a copy. A little gritty upon insert. Genuine Hyundai Tiburon blanks (non transponder even) aren't easy to come by for a reasonable cost.
Happen to know where is the keyless entry receiver (radio) ia located? Is it baked into the BCM, or is it a separate device? Also associated antenna. A quick look through component locations didn't yield the answer. I'd like to attempt extending its range a bit.
My timing belt was worn out, skipped and had to be replaced. Car doesn’t sound right after being changed. The car died a couple of times then the next morning wouldn’t start. The timing belt did not go out while driving the car. So I’m wondering if the engine is damaged due to this and what I...
Replaced PS pump today but steering is still stiff.. thinking maybe the pressure switch is bad but I can not find it... it's not on the pump. Anyone know where its located?
Hello,
I installed piggy back called as "DET3" (Digital ECU Tuner 3) to 2.7 from 2004. I have problem with Launch Control, activation input is on analog #2 as switch ON/OFF, activation RPM is on 3400 and cut off 3600 without any ignition retart.
Driving with switch OFF - no problems, no check...
I'm having a lot of problems with my 08 2.7L GT Tibby. Mainly electrical but some issues are mechanical. First off, the non-functioning components are:
• Radio
• Driver door lock switch
• Center fascia temperature screen and button(Clock screen and buttons still work)
• Climate control screen...
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