[chase206]

I believe the software can become buggy if you change modules often. Restart the software and go directly to the module you need and don't back out of it. IE don't switch from ABS module to DTC modules or whatever. It's been a year since I used it so I don't remember all the module names.

Also do not emulate windows. The USB interface is significantly affected by emulation layers like virtual box, VMware and xen. Use windows as a host OS and run the software in compatibility mode for either win7 or winxp for best results.

 

[DarioB]

I believe the software can become buggy if you change modules often. Restart the software and go directly to the module you need and don't back out of it. IE don't switch from ABS module to DTC modules or whatever. It's been a year since I used it so I don't remember all the module names.

Also do not emulate windows. The USB interface is significantly affected by emulation layers like virtual box, VMware and xen. Use windows as a host OS and run the software in compatibility mode for either win7 or winxp for best results.

I was in vm, so I tried on a xp pc, the software looks a little faster, but again without success. I found a a older kkl interface, the dumbest possible, only ftdi,modded it jumping all pins, but same result.
I have a Terracan, I coul try on it, maybe it's just my car....
Really thanks for all support, you are great <3

 

[Miah]

UPDATE: Do NOT buy this interface, the pins are all mixed up inside (wires between the PCB and pins that you can't get to), and there is nothing connected to line 12. Don't buy this one either, it only had 4 wires so it's useless.

I finally bought this one which has direct pins on the PCB (see top customer review pic), connects to car pretty easily.

• Soldered pins 8, 12, and 15 to pin 7. I assume this is the same for all years?
• Disabled antivirus.
• Manually updated the drivers on the device to the ones in the package.
• On Win10, tried emulating Win 7 and XP SP3. - UPDATE: Connected with Win10 just fine with no compat mode. Win 7 and XP SP3 Compat worked too.
• Tried changing the baud rate in Device Manager and in the interface between 9600 and 10400. - UPDATE: Automatic seems to work best for me.

1. Is it supposed to take an f-ton of tries to get it to connect? Or if after X many tries do I just need to try different settings? - UPDATE: I usually connect on the first try as soon as I start the program and turn on the key, though sometimes it takes a few times toggling.
2. When it says in yellow "ignition on/off", I assume I am to turn the key off and back on again while that is on the screen, correct? Am I supposed to delay turning it back on, or just real fast off-on? - UPDATE: You can flip it off and back on.
3. When it does connect, how quickly does it happen and what do you notice when it does? - UPDATE: It's pretty immediate, you notice the data rx and tx go nuts and then you get the menu.
4. For a 2004 Tib GT, am I meant to choose Hyundai USA>Tiburon or Hyundai genereal>HD Coupe? I tried both. UPDATE: - I was able to connect using both of those and V6.
5. 10400 or 9600 baud best? - UPDATE: Automatic works best for me.
6. Has anyone had success using Win10? - UPDATE: I am able to connect fine.

 

[chase206]

I'll try and record a video of what it should look like when it's functioning properly and walk you both through some of the basic functions. Give me a day or two to piece that together though!

 

[Miah]

Ok, so the interface adapter was the problem (see edited post above). I bought a new one and it connects to the car pretty easily.

However, my airbag light is on immediately when turning on the car (no blinking), and the seatbelt light doesn't turn on at all anymore. My mechanic connected his real OB2 to it and it showed him that it has a faulty driver's seat buckle and passenger seat airbag (it was in a crash many years ago).

But when I'm connecting to it it's showing no faults or crashes. I cleared the DTC (I'm assuming that's what I'm supposed to do) but no change.

EDIT: So I ended up getting an Autel AutoLink AL619 OBD2, and it properly read the faults. Bought a used passenger seat airbag for $25 on eBay and a new driver's seat buckle at a Pull-a-Part for $5. Then I realized that CRASH DATA CANNOT BE RESET. I even sent my ECM to MyAirbags and they couldn't fix it either. So I bought a used one for $35 from eBay, problem solved - I just got my inspection today and passed!

 

[NoSloppy]

I've been getting a bunch of sharing requests for the HiScan Google Drive link I posted on here a long long time ago.
Google changed it's sharing procedures so the link that used to be for "Anyone with the link" changed to request required.
Moved it to Dropbox instead.
TL;DR
Here's the current active link:
HiScan Pro, Cascade, user guides, ODB2 adapter etc......

 

[SilvaNights]

Hi All,

Hope its alright to ask this here, but I'm stumped trying to find what has failed on ABS.

I have a gen 3.5 (06) RHD (UK) Coupe.
I bought this adapter:

Diagnostic cable for Hyundai Hiscan Hi Scan emulation | eBay

We only provide the drivers for windows.

www.ebay.co.uk

I have soldered pin 7 and 8 so that it can read ABS data.
The adapter appears to take the FTDI drivers fine in device manager and on the CASCADE application it shows "FT232R USB" in the bottom right corner.
I can hear it clicking and rx and tx flashing when I go into the ABS menu, but after about 20 seconds it flashes up "CAN'T COMMUNICATION PLEASE CHECK THE SYSTEM".
I note the post's above that talk about flipping the ignition on/off when it says "Ignition on/off", I have tried doing this as well and doesnt seem to help?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys.

UPDATE:

I got it to work!
It's not the most user firendly software, so for anyone else who has similar issues I had to:
Open Cascade
Load ROM for Hyundai/Kia
Go to Vehicle Diagnostics
Hyundai Coupe 02 -
Engine
Select your version (for me it was Coupe Unlead 2.0 CVVT+ EOBD)
Go through the options to setup communication
Then go back 1 menu and select ABS
Go to fault codes
Start engine
Fault codes for ABS should now show

 

[NoSloppy]

The CASCADE HiScan Pro emulator files are here:

Meet Google Drive – One place for all your files

Google Drive is a free way to keep your files backed up and easy to reach from any phone, tablet, or computer. Start with 15GB of Google storage – free.

drive.google.com

Please update this link. I keep getting share requests daily because Google changed security measures.
New link here:

HiScan Pro

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[chase206]

Try this:

HiScan Pro AIO.zip

drive.google.com

 

[NoSloppy]

Try this:

HiScan Pro AIO.zip

drive.google.com

cool. The problem is people stumble upon the old links, but I just don't want a bunch of share request emails and notifications from Google daily. The Drive link I was hosting is now dead. I went through the site and tried to replace any I could find with the Dropbox instead above, but this is good too.

 

[chase206]

I was fairly certain I was sharing my own link since I created it in 2018. Sorry if I reshared any of your Google drive links!