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SUCCESS!!!! the final jumper is pin 7 to pin 15 (the diag pin!!!)

Jump pins 8, 12, and 15 to pin 7 and you can access all the systems on hiscan
This is how your final box should look like:
 

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You do not need a pin out box, it was necessary in order to map out the pins for the DLC cable but now that all the pins are found, you can buy a cheap $8 OBD2 Y-cable and stick wires in the open end, you can buy an OBD2 extension cable and tie the wires together, or for my soldering peeps out there just solder the pins together like so.



Finished product (you can see the jumper wire through the casing :))


Works like a charm, fully tested on all systems and passed with flying colors and a single cable is SOOOOOO much cleaner :)
I also put everything you need, and nothing you don't into a ready to go hiscan pro zip
THIS IS THE ONLY DOWNLOAD YOU NEED

So you can take off all that breakout box stuff off the front page, they aren't necessary. Also all the download links can be changed to the single link I posted above, as I weeded out the unnecessary and confusing stuff. Kill the russian video and the Dr OBD overprice breakout box vids too, it's just filler and will just confuse people. Oh and definitely take out that wheel sensor jumper part, that's for an external analog meter only, when I jumped that one during testing my Speedo went crazy.

I'm pretty sure that's it guys, nothing else to figure out, it was a wild couple of days so thanks for joining us and have fun :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Very cool. Now I didn't know those lines could be combined... Will revise the front post as soon as possible. And I was going to say, because the Hi-Touch unit was able to 'switch' on its own logically with the software, I felt the dealer cable (or unit internal) might encompass a bit of active electronics, but apparently not. Thanks for all your work on this, man. Again, will revise soon. I'll make an note in there first to strikeout the breakout misc & go straight to your post.
 

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Really nice work. Can you possibly consolidate some links to the only cables needed to buy?
 

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Really nice work. Can you possibly consolidate some links to the only cables needed to buy?
Here's the only thing you need to know when it comes to buying a cable: FTDI
just search for 'FTDI OBD' in your store of choice (ebay, amazon, etc) the FTDI chipset is a selling point so it will be mentioned if it has it.
More specifically, it's the FTDI FT232RL chipset, which is the most common.

example: Ebay's offering
 

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im going to say this again... this is ****ing brilliant. im a technician in training(toyota, not hyundai) but i never got around to toying with my ECU. and i have done a **** TON of diagnostics with a true scantool(MODIS/ETHOS) and none of this EEPROM stuff was available. just for clarification, this is all laptop based rom software, but is it configurable? like, can you change stuff like AFR and other things? or is that something you are working on?
 

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just for clarification, this is all laptop based rom software, but is it configurable? like, can you change stuff like AFR and other things? or is that something you are working on?
It's all software based emulation running a predumped rom, so yes, all software.
It's not configurable per se, it will do basic ECU stuff no one really cares about, and it won't do things we really want it to do like change AFR.
nothing to work on, the project is over, WYSIWYG.

On a side note, I have a PIC programmer and I'm really pondering putting it to work.... we will see.
 

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This is pretty cool i have elm 327 (not sure if thats the right number) but it lacks some things. This looks like it can do everything
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
This is pretty cool i have elm 327 (not sure if thats the right number) but it lacks some things. This looks like it can do everything
Case-not-closed, either.

I finally began my own experiments and have suspect one of the reasons it can be difficult to consistently connect to modules other than the main ECU (often requiring numerous key on/off repeats); is that by 'jumping' data lines for each module ALL to K-Line 7 full-time; creating continuity between all of them, is that 'collisions' are taking place, as each module is streaming data simultaneously.

This can make it difficult or impossible to make and keep a consistent connection to a given module. Add the odd baud rates to the equation, different implementations of the same FT232 chip in different cable designs, and... Airkix may have gotten lucky, also the 2007-2008 generation of vehicles (such as my own) may have different characteristics insofar as serial communication. Theorizing, because I'm getting mixed-results at this time.

Perhaps a better analogy would be 4+ modems all competing for 'talk-time' on the same physical copper (ie phone line), at the same time. Or some (if you're old enough) may recall an old-school token-ring computer network - in which you have multiple network adapters connected to a legacy hub device as opposed to an Ethernet switch. There's no traffic-control.

I originally suspected there might be a few bits of active electronics on the Hi-Scan Pro DLC cable for Hyundai, or some proprietary logic in the unit hardware that prevents collisions. I've read that a collision-prevention scheme exists, but if we're bonding all these signal leads together we're probably doing our best to defeat that.

I've breadboarded some diode protection to inhibit current flow between pins 8, 12 & 15 with better results, but my prototype is a mess. Current blocks both-directions between them, but allowing continuity between each of them to 7. Haven't done it on paper yet, probably a better way such as a diode pack as opposed to multiple... If I'm even heading in the right direction. All I can say for certain is - bonding all those leads together isn't the final solution. Had to switch gears to something else for now.

Post more soon, perhaps with circuit diagram (diode lay-over) when I can return to this. But something's still missing.

Moral of the story - need many more testers to give feedback on their own results. With the '07/08 Tib's, also. Buy a cable, peeps. And I'd still recommend having a breakout box to test with before touching your adapters with a soldering iron.
 

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This can make it difficult or impossible to make and keep a consistent connection to a given module. Add the odd baud rates to the equation, different implementations of the same FT232 chip in different cable designs, and... Airkix may have gotten lucky, also the 2007-2008 generation of vehicles (such as my own) may have different characteristics insofar as serial communication. Theorizing, because I'm getting mixed-results at this time.
I originally suspected there might be a few bits of active electronics on the Hi-Scan Pro DLC cable for Hyundai, or some proprietary logic in the unit hardware that prevents collisions. I've read that a collision-prevention scheme exists, but if we're bonding all these signal leads together we're probably doing our best to defeat that..
Tying all the lines together has no ill effect, it's already been done. Pretty much the only reason you shouldn't tie all the lines together is if you use it on another vehicle.
If you have an 07, you should probably use can-bus. I'm pretty sure the emulator supports it. Canbus was addressed in the thread I linked above and it was the only thing I couldn't test.
The Hiscan auto switches to be used in multiple vehicles, The signal comes from pins 8, 12, and 15 and goes to pin 7, so there's really no crosstalk, it's probably just a way to lock consumers out (or non hiscan programmers). I've tried both ways and I have no difference in communication quality.

Remember this is emulation or both hardware and software, so if you have a bunch of background tasks running, or running a modern OS, your usb to serial emulation might not be fast enough to be accurate or hanging due to background tasks or bulky crap OS (win7 and 8 )
 

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Remember this is emulation or both hardware and software, so if you have a bunch of background tasks running, or running a modern OS, your usb to serial emulation might not be fast enough to be accurate or hanging due to background tasks or bulky crap OS (win7 and 8 )
Hmmm..... maybe everyone that tries should list the OS they're running.

I'm about ready to try, have a couple cables to try. I will also be on XP Pro with all the last updates.
 

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Tying all the lines together has no ill effect, it's already been done. Pretty much the only reason you shouldn't tie all the lines together is if you use it on another vehicle.
It might not hurt to insert a resistor on each line to help mitigate any ringing/reflections on the lines interfering with each other. A resistor around 20-100 Ohms should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
10/4 on the last paragraph; as I'm a Network Engineer/technician with AC/DC electronics background & have supported Windows systems since the 486 days. But to say tying all the lines together has no ill-effect is rather premature from only one tester on one generation of Tiburon, with due respect. Here's another tester stating he's not getting the same results. And understood insofar as the CAN bus but we have no control over its selection. Recall I also said that the presence of diodes between those lines has helped somewhat in my case. Why would that help if there were no ill-effects to binding all those lines together? It's electrically unsound, IMO. The Hi-Scan hardware isolates these lines.

I return to: Need more testers. Game not over.

C'mon guys, chime in please. Get your cables, give some feedback.
 

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But to say tying all the lines together has no ill-effect is rather premature from only one tester on one generation of Tiburon, with due respect.
I return to: Need more testers. Game not over.
I didn't come up with tying the lines together, I got the idea from here. The guy who wrote the cascade software said it should be fine to tie the lines together, someone else did it, I confirmed it, as with everything else YMMV.

btw when I said game over I meant searching for the right pins to jump, which is in fact, game over on that. Connection problems will vary based on hardware, software, etc.

3. can connect to the engine, works sorta fine. sometimes it will drop the connection on you randomly. when asked, i got this response:

The reason the connecting works reliably with the airbag and not so
much with the ECU is that the latter appears to uses the "fast init"
protocol, which requires very exact timing -- too exact, in fact,
for
a software emulation running on a PC desktop operating system and
using a passive USB-connected interface. I have put in a lot of effort
trying to achieve the highest accuracy possible, and I'm quite
confident that what we have is the best you can get out of that kind
of setup.

4. No connection to the BCM. here's what the guy who wrote the program says about it:

"I have not tested any real key/immobilizer-related stuff, but
experiments indicate that these systems often use rather weird modes
of communication. It's quite possible that it just won't work at the
moment"
This quote was the 2nd to last post on the original cascade emulator thread.
I think you guys are having connection issues not because the lines are interfering, but because your fast init and baud rate emulation isn't accurate enough. I tried my cable/laptop combo on a 2bit ECU and a 4bit ECU and it works flawlessly.

I'm not saying you guys are wrong, I just think you may be barking up the wrong tree.
 

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ECU Info screen.... Wonder what each character means, it's a mystery lol
Im pretty sure thats the Calibration ID number. The dealer would use this to determine if they need to update the ECU. Its kinda like a firmware number.


Ive switched to bluetooth obd since I installed a tablet in the car, but I had an old ELM usb cable laying around. Took it apart and jumped the pins to 7 and no luck. The software sees the interface (iface light is lit and lower right corner shows also)but keep getting "no communication" message when trying to access anything. Going to try one of the cables that were suggested, but just wanted to give people a heads up that the ELM 327 cable has not worked for me.
 

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A followup on this @h8isgr8, after programming I went to program it back and now I have this everytime.
Notice the transmitter amount at the bottom... EA huh, if it's x16 based hex that means there's 234 fobs programmed.... oops
So BUYER BEWARE, this thing can screw up your car, it does crash once in awhile too

EDIT: yeah neither fob works now, good thing I had an alarm system so I didn't need the fob haha :)
1-Not really sure where you get that you have 234 fobs programmed to the car.
2-Any thoughts/ideas on what to do to pair a fob to a car? Or, what to avoid?

Hopefully I can go test this later. I have a couple of OBDII cables to try, one will be through a USB to serial adaptor that has a FTDI chip in it.
I will post back when I get done.
 

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1-Not really sure where you get that you have 234 fobs programmed to the car.
See where it says this at the bottom:
No of trasmitters saved: EA
EA is 234 in hexadecimal
I was assuming it was base 16 considering pretty much anything that uses a cpu uses base 16. It's a glitch because obviously I don't have that many fobs programmed to my car but while it was writing the info to my ECU it messed up and wrote incomplete data or garbage numbers, hence why I think I can't reprogram my fob back.

This is all guessing, so please correct me if I wrong, I kinda wonder too.
 

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Sounds good to me..... that's a bit more than I usually have to deal with.

Anyway, I have NOT been able to connect to my wifes Tib with what I have. I'm assuming it's on my end though since even my OBDII scanner won't connect...... really need to get my old laptop useable again (it's my old work laptop..... I'm trying to recover files off it that the office deleted..... thus no new additions/loads to it UNTIL I recover files.....)
 

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OK, I made a "little" progress. My serial/OBDII cables (from a E.G.Harrison OBDII scanner) can connect to an ECU using a FTDI based USB to serial adaptor.
I tested using the EGH software. So I have that issue resolved.
Still can't "talk" to the Tib in any way using Cascade, but I have NOT jumpered any of the ground pins yet, this is likely my issue.

I will look to see if I can open the case of my USB to serial adaptor and mount a couple of switches so I can selectively pick what ground/grounds I want. Basically use the previously mentioned ground wiring but instead of a jumper, wire in a small switch for each line.
Then I can have one switched in or any combination as required.

[My USB to serial adaptor is a sample "Rabbit processor" programming cable from my old job. It has the FTDI chip in it, thus why I wanted to try it out.]
 

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OK, my EGH OBDII cable is NOT going to work.

1-I don't have all the pins required for some of what I want to do.
2-It's an "overmolded" cable, thus no way to add in pins or easily do the ground jumping.

Off to Ebay I go...... LOL.....

PS, my "pin numbering" looks to match the originally supplied Hyundai numbering when looking at the connector from the "pin side". The numbers are molded into the connector.
 
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