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SUCCESS!!!!

First off, thanks @NxTC1275 for putting that package together.

The pinout box was worth it so go ahead and get that but DO NOT buy the adapters he has listed, they are NOT FDTI chipsets.
I bought both, neither worked, so I researched and found the right adapters (btw these both work with openECU, the DIY tuner app, here's the link for that if you wanna venture down that road)
get this one
or this one.

Once you have one of those adapters (or any FDTI chipset), download the adapter drivers, if these drivers don't work, then your chipset is not compatible.

if it worked, in the cascade emulator in the bottom right corner in the interface box it should have you adapter listed. If it does, you are golden. (see picture)

I successfully
- cleared my airbag light (jump 7 and 12 on the pinout box when it tells you to switch cables)
- found out why my abs light was on. (jump 7 and 8 on pinout)
- checked flight data (for ****s and giggles)
- check DTC code history
- real time wheel speed sensor (jump 7 and 14)(the car wasn't moving so all was zeroed out but it did work)

The Emulator works flawlessly so far in windows XP (had problems loading the rom til I cleared off read only on the files), I will post more when I get a chance to mess with it later tonight.
The 1st cable you listed is out of stock & no restock date.
I just ordered the 2nd cable you listed, they are down to ~11 left......

Anything else I found with the correct chip is weeks out with shipping from China, I need this sooner.
 

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@Charlie-III you must have the patience of a saint, i would have tossed the whole mess out into the middle of the street by now!! push onward, youll get it sorted out, got faith in ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Not all FTDI based a adapters are created equal, & they made several chip revisions I've discovered. The best adapter I've found is the blue one Airkix originally put up the link for, advertised for Triumph/ECUTune, from a US seller. I have another black cable with the same chip, but clearly implemented poorly by the designer.

Also: Be certain you're using the DLL driver from FTDI that's able to flux the baud rate dynamically, as opposed to the other.

Use a 32-bit (x86 based) OS, either Windows XP (legacy) or Windows 7 Starter edition, at minimum. Forget Vista.

When running 32-bit applications in a 64-bit environment, a 'thunk' (conversion) is occurring between the app & the driver.

Finally, enter the Device Manager for Windows with the cable attached, examine the properties of the device driver & set to 115,200 baud. Enter the Advanced section (button) & set latency to 1 millisecond. Higher will cause failures.

Make sure you have no resident programs consuming overhead, antivirus, etc OFF.

I NOW have consistent, predictable connection to all modules with all the above considerations made.
 

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Great info Nx.... thanks.

My main thing (for now) is resetting the SRS light. After that, we'll see.

If nothing else, it's handy when I do my next GTG here.

Oni...... no, I'm cheap, can't see paying someone ~$100+ to turn off the dang SRS light. Besides, I hate letting PC's win!:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Does it have a real, persistent fault that's producing the MIL & you just want to ignore it, or a leftover MIL for something already resolved? If you just want it out of your face (pun) you can pull the fuse. I experienced the infamous SRS light only because I had the center bezel w/passenger-side airbag indicator disconnected. Upon reconnection it cleared itself w/o intervention. '07 Tib GT. Hi-Scan gave mine a clean bill of health. Bystanders aren't amused or even understand the significance of Hi-Scan until I demonstrated the ability to actuate indicator lights from the PC, door locks, ABS pump, etc. Then their tune changes. "Whoaaah." ~ lol. Same with a so-called mechanic. He didn't get it.
 

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We had a failed buckle, we replaced the buckle but it was on long enough it's now latched. Clearing the ECU does NOT clear the SRS light.

Wife wants it working (thinks it will fail inspection with a SRS light.... she won't believe me...), she also does not want the fuse pulled to kill the light (neither do I).
 

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I've had an un-diagnosed SRS light for several months now, It would be nice to know for sure if it's the buckle issue ir something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Indeed I'd also want to know if it were significant enough to trigger an accidental deployment or not deploy at all in the event of sufficient G's. Such as an issue with a body sensor or something else. I took my wheel off last weekend just to clean out build-up beneath the plastic 'gun metal' trim & to refinish those final pieces. Even after pulling the SRS fuse & waiting an hour I wasn't putting my face in front of the explosive. Just taking those T bits loose to move it aside gave me ebby jeebies, lol. Watched one blow up in a guy's face once at a salvage yard. He got away with white powder & a black eye, but could have been nasal bones to the brain... Arg
 

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Indeed I'd also want to know if it were significant enough to trigger an accidental deployment or not deploy at all in the event of sufficient G's. Such as an issue with a body sensor or something else. I took my wheel off last weekend just to clean out build-up beneath the plastic 'gun metal' trim & to refinish those final pieces. Even after pulling the SRS fuse & waiting an hour I wasn't putting my face in front of the explosive. Just taking those T bits loose to move it aside gave me ebby jeebies, lol. Watched one blow up in a guy's face once at a salvage yard. He got away with white powder & a black eye, but could have been nasal bones to the brain... Arg
There's at least one YouTube video from Russia(?) where they had a guy sit on an airbag (in a shop) and they set it off...... blew him a few feet up in the air!:surprise:

My understanding is that if you get the SRS for a bad buckle, replace the buckle (but leave the SRS light on) the system still works.
I'm not exactly looking to test it for myself though.....

PS, my "Triumph cable" shipped.... due Wednesday next week...... via USPS....
 

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Hmmm..... cable may be here tomorrow.
 

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I NOW have consistent, predictable connection to all modules with all the above considerations made.
Are your lines tied together? pins 7, 8, 12, and 15? I don't mean to harp on it but when you said tying the lines together affect your connection quality, produces crosstalk, etc. and I said it doesn't matter, well did it matter? :)


I've been doing some serious testing of stuff and I have a little update on devices for you:
The serial to kline interface chipset by FTDI works great (FT232BL), it's commonly sold as KWP2000 Plus and are easily available.

Also if you pick up the kwp2000+ you can put the ecu in bootstrap mode and access the raw data via Minimon

You have to physically modify your ECU to enter bootstrap mode, but it's very easy and if you guys are interested in it, follow this.

Big shout out to the BMW E class crowd, where I learned to manipulate the C167 and flash my ECU, although it wasn't through the kline, I feel I'm getting there..... Have fun, I have :thumbup:
 

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Cable has arrived, looks the same (translucent blue housing) as mentioned/shown before.

Case is open & temp jumpers going in to test on the SRS light reset.

NOTE: I'm going to hazard a guess (based on what I saw with my own OBDII cable) the reason why the ELM cable isn't working (or any other specialty OBDII cable) is that not all the pins required for CASCADE are there.
You would have to look at your own cable and check with the pin-outs provided earlier in this thread.
The dedicated OBDII cables ONLY have the Federally mandated pins & wiring, not the "specials" required to access OEM specific items.
In my case, there is no way to add the pins either, so I bought the "Triumph ECU tuner" cable.
 

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"No joy".....!!

I tried a few things, but did NOT kill the "SRS" light.

Maybe it's on my end, but still no luck at this point.:frown2:
 

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"No joy".....!!

I tried a few things, but did NOT kill the "SRS" light.

Maybe it's on my end, but still no luck at this point.:frown2:
You sure you don't wanna borrow mine, I have 2 different cables that work great. fully tested and fully functional.
It's out there if you want it :)
 

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Oh, I can see a lot more now with the new cable. I just can't clear the SRS light yet.

I'm not aware of anyone else here that has done so either (using Cascade & the cable you linked).
 

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I can confirm that the SRS light IS able to be cleared. Im using the Triumph cable with the pins jumped.



The light stayed off for about 15 min and then returned. I knew this was going to happen since I have not fixed the problem yet. I just wanted to test that it would clear the code and it did.
 

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Going back out and try again, I had forgotten to mess with the connection speed yesterday, that may be part of it.
 

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OK, so the speed setting was my big issue.
Now I was able to get in, reset the SRS light, but it won't go off. I get a "done" message (or similar) but the light is still on.
Sigh.
 

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OK, so the speed setting was my big issue.
Now I was able to get in, reset the SRS light, but it won't go off. I get a "done" message (or similar) but the light is still on.
Sigh.
Here's a couple things to try:
1. there are a couple ways to clear codes, it's an F2 action while viewing active DTCs and there is a "Clear DTC" option on the top menu, try both.

2. While selecting a car, don't choose Hyundai USA, select Hyundai General instead, HD Coupe 02- (option 18 ). Using the HD Coupe instead might work for you, when I was originally doing this I remember the General rom did some things the USA rom couldn't, worth a shot in the dark.
 
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