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So your horn doesn't work when you press it. First of all, you've checked the ACON fuse (AC and Horn share the same fuse). You've checked power at the horns via a multimeter with the steering wheel depressed. You've checked the relay by replacing it with the adjacent fuel pump relay (with the car off). You've also checked the horns themselves by bypassing the relay (middle prong to + battery terminal). All in all, everything from the relay to the horns checks out, so the problem is before the relay.

If the problem is before the relay, it could be a wire that has shorted out, a wire that has been crimped/cut, the clock spring, etc. I personally did not want to pull off the air bag on the steering wheel to inspect the clock spring, so this is how I made a horn button on my 2005 2.0L 5 speed Tib.

Step 1: Gather the appropriate materials. You are going to need a 3Amp momentary switch. You are going to need enough wire to go from the (+) battery terminal to the switch panel by the illumination dial to the left of the steering wheel. Note: their will be two wires running so it will be best in terms of organization and freshness to get wires that are two connected together (like speaker wire), that way you can fish them together at the same time. You will also need a circle or prong wire terminal to connect to the (+) battery terminal. You will also need wire terminals for the two wires that will connect to the momentary switch.

Step 2: Fish the wire. I wound out (not cut) what I thought would be enough wire from the spool and started from the driver's side of the dash. I fished the wire from under the top of the fender's edge, under the corner of the cowl, towards to engine bay and back under the fender's edge in order to hide the wire. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102146 Next, I pulled the wires to the (+) terminal and left them there and ensured that all or most of the wire set from the fender to the (+) was hidden. I then separated the two wires from each other from the (+) terminal to the relay box in the engine bay. One of these wires will connect to the (+) terminal and the other to the horn relay. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102130

Step 3: Engine bay connections. First crimp on your connection for the wire to the (+) terminal; note: choose the wire that you will remember is power, for example: a wire that is not black or does not have a line on it. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102114 Second, open the relay box and remove the horn relay (yellow relay beside the white relay in the box). Remove enough insulation from the other wire in the engine bay (~1") and push it into the slot for the middle prong on the relay that is parallel with the axle of the car (I believe prong 87); this is the slot that one can bypass the relay with by connecting the (+) terminal to. Re-install the relay which will pinch the wire into the slot along with the relay. Re-install the relay cover. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102122

Step 4: Fish the wire. Now from the driver's door with fish the wire under the flat weather stripping (pull out the black pushpins and re-install after the wire is under) http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102154 and under the weather strip next the dash (pull it out so that you can push the wire through, then push back lightly) http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102162 . Now, push the wire in between the dash and the weather stripping to hide it as you travel downwards http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102162 http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102170 . Cut the wire from the spool with enough left to fish under the dash to reach the switch panel to the left of the steering wheel. Open the fuse box panel to help guide the wire up and to remove a blank switch panel http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102178 . You can also check your engine bay connections by temporarily touching the two ends of the wires in the cabin and listening for the horn.

Step 5: Switch installation. Drill the appropriate sized hole in the panel for your momentary switch and check the switch fits. Remove the switch and feed the wires through the hole in the blank panel. Reinstall the panel and connect the wires to the switch; note: it doesn't matter which wire to which pin, but try and remember which one has power in case you need a power wire in the future for another project. Now push the wires through the hole in the panel and push in the switch. Test the switch again by pushing it and listening for the horn. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102186

Step 6: Clean up. Ensure all wires are hidden. In the engine bay I used clear silicone and siliconed the wires under the fender's edge to keep them hidden. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102138 Now you can use your horn again and have no issues during inspection (at least in PA).
 

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good DIY, thanks for this. a little on the "rube goldberg" side, but hey it does the job. being the dick i am, i may modify it a little to add an air horn since no one can hear the obnoxious and wimpy "meep, meep" of the OEM horns. come up behind old grey haired slow pudknockers and give the horn a blast and watch em jump outta the seat!! i love it.
 

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You could surely switch out the horns at the front and have them operate by the steering wheel control or wire in new horns and fish the wires in the same manner for another set of horns. This DIY was primarily intended for those whose circuit has failed between the steering wheel and the relay and did not want to deal with airbag components. Also, after doing this I think this might be safer. In the event of an accident most people honk, but if your arm is extended into the steering wheel when the airbag deploys, the same result as when your leg is fully extended into the clutch may happen....that is your arm may be dislocated.
 
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