Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. My check engine light is on and I get code P0171 (Autozone) which means car is running too lean. The cat I purchased the car from said it is the first oxygen sensor on bank one. On top between the motor and the firewall and is attached to the header. Is that english? Is this something that I can pop the hood and see? I wanna at least try to fix it myself. Or should I just go buy the sensor ($100) and take it to a mechanic ($70)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,445 Posts
can't verify that what he says about the code is true, or where the bank 1 primary 02 is (thought i think its off the headers (three pipey things comming out of the engine) between the engine and the radiator), but i can tell you that changing the sensor is fairly pain less (in a i4 sonata anyway)

You should get an O2 socket. it'll take some elbow grease, my biggest problem was unhooking the wire clip. but i'm challenged when it comes to that stuff lol.
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
Wait.... are you sure the O2 sensor is bad? Does it have aftermarket headers? an aftermarket intake? what mods are done to it.....

Is it a V6 or I4?
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
guessing v6 if he said bank 1
Well... he also said he purchased the car from a "CAT" so I'm not sure about his wording.... lol :3_wink:

See here:
Hi all. My check engine light is on and I get code P0171 (Autozone) which means car is running too lean. The cat I purchased the car from said...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
02 sensor codes don't automatically mean "replace the sensor".... it means "diagnose the thing"... could be lean from clogged injectors, or engine electrics that make the engine run lean....
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
Could be caused by an intake setup, or a small leak in vaccume causing unmetered air after the MAF.... etc. I agree.... gotta diagnose your issue before just throwing parts at the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,445 Posts
Could be caused by an intake setup, or a small leak in vaccume causing unmetered air after the MAF.... etc. I agree.... gotta diagnose your issue before just throwing parts at the problem.
how does one do that? spray wd40 around the area you are talking about and look for bubbles or something like that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok so I did a little research. I have a SRI and Headers and a cat back exhaust. It's a 2003 gt 6 speed. The cat that I bought it from told me all that good stuff about the 02 Sensor. I don't really know how to clean the MAF or what it is lol. I'll keep doing my research. As long as the car doesn't mess up by the weekend I should be fine. I drive 80 miles a day so I can't afford to just burn gas like that though.
I use the "cat" term often cause I'm cooler than the other side of the pillow ya dig lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Oh and I did a search on my code and saw all the wonderful things it could be lol. 02 sensor is the last resort. The car has 104k on it though. I'm scared to even dabble with it cause all this is greek to me. I'll give it a shot this weekend though. Thanks for all the info my new comrades. I'm really glad nobody did the use the search blah blah blah......even though that's how I got all the info lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
lol, noticed that myself.

i'm guessing he didn't just pull it out of his as$ tho but who knows.
Oh hell sorry guys. I use cat instead of dude, guy, etc. But I do have a cat back exhaust. I understand why people hate noobs. We complicate EVERYTHING!!!
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
HAHAHA.... its all good man... I just wanted to check to make sure before throwing any opinions/ideas out there.

First, I'd remove the clamps for the SRI. In the middle of it you'll find a black cylindrical box looking thingy that is about 4in long with circular ends with a waffle-like grading on the openings. This box will have a wire hooked up in the top of it on a metal pop-lock. This box is your MAF sensor. unclip the wiring harness on it by pushing in on the silver metal wire pop-lock. The whole box thing should come out as one piece. (take care of this as that part you are holding is usually about $90.) Go to the store and get a can of MAF cleaner spray, make sure it says MAF cleaner on the spraycan, not Carb cleaner. when you get back with the can, look at the inside of the box through the waffle-like grading and you should see a piece sticking down into the center of the box, this is the MAF sensor itself..... spray this thing down with the MAF cleaner to remove any stuck on gunk.

Next, while you have the SRI disconnected, take the filter off of the end of it and give it a bath..... What I mean is fill up a laundry tub with hot water and a little dish washing detergent (the kind like Dawn or Palmolive that breaks down grease) and let the filter sit in the bath and soak for about half an hour. Come back and shake around the filter in the water to remove any stuck on gunk... Then drain the water out of the tub and thouroughly wash the filter out until there is no more soap residue or gunk left on the filter. The filter should now be a greyish color (depending on filter). Take compressed air, or just let the filter sit out in the sun and get completely dry. Once dry get a small bottle of filter oil, and lightly re-oil the filter. (don't over-do it, as excess oil will travel up the insides of the SRI and gunk up your newly cleaned MAF sensor again).

Now, Allow filter to dry and then re-assemble the SRI into the engine bay with the MAF sensor. Make sure the arrow of the MAF sensor is pointing UP towards the engine throttle body. Make sure when you put your hose clamps and silicone couplers back on that they are fit securely to their connecting points and do not have any gaps or rips or anything that could cause a vac leak. Also make sure the little hose on the SRI is connected properly to the motor by the valve cover and has not popped free. I always had mine connected with a small clamp.

Now disconnect the negative of the battery cable and wait about 15-20min for the codes to clear and ECU to reset itself... reconnect the battery at this time and turn the car on... the CEL should now be gone. Drive the car around for a little while and see if the CEL light comes back on. If the CEL stays off, then your MAF and intake may have been the culprit.... if the light comes back on, move on the step 2.

Congrats you just did an SRI cleaning and Maf cleaning. This was step 1.
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
Step 2:
So the light has come back on..... maybe now it is time to look into replacing an 02 sensor.

If the routine maintenance did not fix your issue... and the CEL is saying that only that one O2 sensor is bad, it may be a safe bet that the sensor has in-fact gone out on you. I'd start by getting yourself an O2 sensor puller/wrench. These have a special cutout to allow the wire for the O2 sensor to feed through. Begin by identifying which sensor it is in fact that is bad. Disconnect the wire side of the 02 sensor first from the harness clip. Once freed, get your 02 sensor puller, and place it over the O2 sensor and then just turn it counter clockwise like a normal bolt to free it from the header.
Once you crack the seal on the 02 sensor it will just twist out of the header like a normal bolt. Pull it out and then replace it with a new one. MAKE SURE YOU GET A HYUNDAI REPLACEMENT for your 03/04, as the 02 sensors in the 05/06 are slightly different material makeup, and the generic autozone ones tend to be faulty.
With your new 02 sensor in hand twist the sensor back into place in the header first, and tighten it up snugly with the 02 sensor puller. Once in the header, reclip the wiring harness. (make sure to reclip the harness AFTER putting it in the header so that you don't twist up the 02 sensor wires and break them).

Now again, disconnect the battery, wait 15-20 min to allow codes to disappear in the ECU..... hook the battery back up and drive the car around.... the CEL should now be off and stay off.... if it comes back on for some reason we'll move on to Step 3.
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
how does one do that? spray wd40 around the area you are talking about and look for bubbles or something like that?
Yea.... you can just spray the area down around the seals... if you hear a slight change in RPMs or if you see small bubbles, then you know you have a small leak...... As for the spray, I don't think WD40 is the best to use though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Tibby. I'm gonna give it a shot when I get home from work. I've gone through a half a tank of gas in one day. I gotta fix this **** quick!
 

·
Always Here To Help
Joined
·
3,920 Posts
Thanks Tibby. I'm gonna give it a shot when I get home from work. I've gone through a half a tank of gas in one day. I gotta fix this **** quick!
Oh yea... if you are burning gas that quick, then something is definately not reading right. When you look at the tail pipes, are they also Pitch black? You wanna get that issue fixed before you drive it much more or you'll be replacing more than just the one O2 sensor. To me it does sound like an O2 sensor has gone bad if you're burning gas like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
So do you think I need to take off that plastic covers the motor or do I just jack the car off..... I mean up and try to get to the sensor from underneath the car?
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top