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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i want to keep the fuel lines as stock as they could be and avoid fpr's and pump upgrades. will it handle 17psi max, on 440cc injectors , let's say 15psi more real, but maybe alky kit and such...
anyways, won't it kill the pump faster?
 

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15psi on stock pump? You'd be lucky if you didn't run lean on 7psi.
 

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hey indifference what kinda torque do u put out with the stealth
 

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Wrong. The stock fuel system can handle upwards of 15psi no problem. Jon, your thinking of the stock RDTib pump which is craptastic at best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
simple answer. no. upgrade =)
Indif , i think the v6 guys are messing frequently with pumps , but i'm in with dmdicks on this matter. i'm interested in how much is the real limit on the stock pump and stock rev-limiter? how much till the pressure falls.. we had a conversation with a bud and he offered me to take his evo 9 stock pump, but i'd prefer to stay stock. the fuel pump is not what you get performance or additional hp with. it is either needed either fine without it. just want to know the limits
 

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im retarded. your an I4. ignore me.

vidfinn - I ran a mustang dyno after having the kit installed and i put down 209hp and 211 tq. So if you do as they (and TC) suggested and use the 15-20% hp loss compared to a dynojet im right at 250hp and 251tq or thereabouts. exactly what i should be seeing pretty much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, man, posting in an i4-f/i forum - i was pretty sure i have an i4 engine :D j/k , but that would be hell of a monster , 15psi for v6...
 

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im retarded. your an I4. ignore me.

vidfinn - I ran a mustang dyno after having the kit installed and i put down 209hp and 211 tq. So if you do as they (and TC) suggested and use the 15-20% hp loss compared to a dynojet im right at 250hp and 251tq or thereabouts. exactly what i should be seeing pretty much.
so a mustang dyno is loaded right so its closer to real stats, meh it seems 209hp isnt that impressive to me :( i wish it were more i want gobs of torque at least 250
thats a friggen stock srt
 

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Well stock SRTs are turboed... so those are great numbers for a turboed tib.
 

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u would think n/a + turbo would be>stock turbo since n/a is higher compression then again the srt is at 14 psi oposed to 5? lol
 

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I also drive an auto. your numbers would be higher in a manual. If you think nothing but a numbers game it doesnt sound so great. But being able to run with my buddies modded Z and even pull him slightly makes it all worth while
 

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I am running 15psi right now with the stock pump. I have been at 16psi with plenty of fuel (11.5 afr). I couldn't personally vouch for you being ok at 17psi, but I think it would be ok.

If need be, you could buy a boost-a-pump which raises the pump voltage under boost. That
way your off boost fuel curves would remain the same. Just test your car at 15psi and then
go up gradually until you hit 17psi. Watch your afr as you go and you'll be fine.

With 4x440cc you have a total of 1760cc of fuel. I have 4x290cc injectors plus a 650cc 5th injector. So I have 1810cc of fuel. If I'm not maxed out, you shouldn't be. Can the PRS give you the injector duty cycle? You really want to be no more than 80% to have a margin of error.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yeah it does give, but i'm thinking of changing it for kdm guys reflashed ecu. you can call it "lose" or "weep" or how is it in english, but i'm giving up already, i tried to do everything in my competence , but it just doesn't want to idle leaner than 12.0:1 +at turning the hids on make it even more unstable. and that is not mentioning what pain in the arse is the tuning itself when you're just all alone versus your car and no one else in the whole city knows what's this but wishes you only to fail and blow up motor. anyways i'll be more satisfied i hope if i have a tuned ecu and a meth kit to back up (although the package is ..lost somewhere and i have negligible(?) hope to get it or at least claim the money back)...
 

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yeah it does give, but i'm thinking of changing it for kdm guys reflashed ecu. you can call it "lose" or "weep" or how is it in english, but i'm giving up already, i tried to do everything in my competence , but it just doesn't want to idle leaner than 12.0:1 +at turning the hids on make it even more unstable. and that is not mentioning what pain in the arse is the tuning itself when you're just all alone versus your car and no one else in the whole city knows what's this but wishes you only to fail and blow up motor. anyways i'll be more satisfied i hope if i have a tuned ecu and a meth kit to back up (although the package is ..lost somewhere and i have negligible(?) hope to get it or at least claim the money back)...
Sorry to hear you are so frustrated, I've been there myself and thought about giving up
many times, theres no shame in that. After spending all that money I'm sure you
just want to drive the car and get a boosted smile on your face. i hope the re-flash works
out for you. Let us know how it goes if you get one.

Are you idling rich because the PRS is having problems controling your idle valve?
Does puting a load on the engine, like turning on the A/C make it better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for understanding, i'm sure only you anв some other guys who "been there, done that" can understand .. i didn't understand what you mean by the idle valve, cause i didn't connect anything and as far as i read 2003 i4s don't have an idle motor or controller. maybe my wideband is miscalibrated, but when i'm at idle leaner than 11.8-11.9:1 it tries to stall, turning on the headlights make it closer to stalling, don't know about a/c. but i'd think that it will make things even worse. i was hoping at least with idle and neutral revving it would be simple as that: datalog, adjust,datalog,adjust.adjust, 14.7 , done ..
i did even boost with pig rich tunes but on one point it just like "hits the wall of stone", being around 10.0:1.
anyways, i was running everything more stable on stock ecu, than now..i'm now very close to the thought that no standalone like this can manage the load , timing (i can't control timing at all without some sort of msd or coils), real "closed loop", i'm not building a racecar, so i'd better try this "install and forget" style
 

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The IAC or Idle Air Control valve is located on the intake manifold to the left of the throttle body. If you left your OEM ECU in tact it will control the IAC for you. As for it running rich at idle I experienced the same thing when I tried to do the sequential injection. Perfect Power told me to just use the parallel injection and that fixed it. You also need to make sure your using the OEM Oxygen sensor to feed into the PRS. That way by using the Lamda screen you can have the PRS automatically adjust your idle. It's all in the technical and installation guides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dave you are most helpful, i'll try to see what more can i do, who knows maybe some wonder will give me the ability to continue and through this dark art of tuning, maybe i'll just go for reflash.. i'm using the widebands analog output simulating the narrow lambda, how else would i be able to datalog anything..so we'll see. so you advice to bring all four injector wires to one, both outputs tied together and then try.. ok, we'll see. anyways, i don't blame you in anything, it's my sole decision and when again i have the possibility to manage with that high level kind of stuff..
 
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