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This is a post for everyone who wants to know about turbos because I am tired of answering the same questions over and over. First, go buy Maximum boost by Corky Bell (or download it here CLICKY thank you pauly) this will be your “bible” for the next few months (and no not all this information is available online). Second, the list below may or may not be complete and will be updated from time to time (if you see something missing or incorrect please post it or PM me so I can fix it I am not “god” nor have I memorized my “bible”). Third, I am trying to stay away from naming brands here if you want to know which is best search/research find out which will be best for your application (DON’T POST HERE). Last, things such as Turbo size, injector size, oil line size etc... are different for every setup, so don’t ask “what size turbo do I need”. If you need help first list your goals then using your “bible” and a lot of research pick what you think is an appropriate part then post and ask if it is the best part for your application.
Projects to Follow:
Motox244's turbo build:
CLICKY
Octane's Boost Blog
CLICKY
Duffer's Ebay Turbo Kit:
CLICKY
Heratick's Turbo Website:
CLICKY
HYPERormance Turbo Project:
CLICKY
RathIsSolid Turbo Teaser:
CLICKY
EliteWarMachines NGM turbo install:
CLICKY
Paul J. McCains Custom Turbo Build Journal:
CLICKY
Turbo kits currently available for V6 tib = NGM (yes that’s it)
I2tuning has a great partial kit for us which can be found here:
CLICKY
Custom build (here’s what you need)
Mandatory modifications:
*Fuel tuner
(The Power of Dreams Neo DIY)
*290cc injectors (or higher)
*Adjustable 1:1 Fuel Pressure Rregulator w/ gauge
(YoYos DIY)
*At least one solid motor mount (two would be better but one will work)
(Stevis50s homemade DIY)
*Turbocharger
*Turbo flange and downpipe flange
*External Wastegate 38mm or 44mm
*BOV with adapter
*Intercooler
*Piping for intake & intercooler (yes the e-bay pipe kits are fine but buy better couplers)
*Silicon couplers with good clamps (T clamps)
*Custom manifold to turbo/custom downpipe (mandrel bend, also you must get them coated with something so they don’t rust)
*Oil fittings, Oil lines feed & return (don’t cheap out here nothing like a $7 part that can cost you thousands if it fails) you can find Turbo oil kit w/ all you can need (oil feeding line is -4an return oil line must be -10an).
*Bulkhead mate for oil return line (suggest weld on the uppper oil pan)
*Sandwich plate for oil feed (don’t cheap out and do the home depot mod it will break and you could lose your engine just search I did it to start with (preturbo) and almost lost my motor)
*Vacuum splitter / vacuum lines / vacuum line filters
*Boost gauge/line (don’t use those nylon lines just buy small vacuum line it works a lot better and its cheaper)
(philm00xs DIY)
Lots of heat protection
*Sparkplugs (1 to 2 steps colder dependent on planned PSI)
*Recirculating adapters (if you want to go recirculated)
*Clutch and flywheel (because the stock one will go fast)
(lonesharks 6-speed DIY)
*Battery relocation kit
(leber066s DIY)
Highly Suggested:
Exhaust 2.5" or 3"
Headers (if your not going to build a custom manifold directly off the block)
Wideband (then you don’t have to pay for the insane amount of dyno time you would need)
255lph Fuel pump
(r100s DIY)
Oil catch can (in no way mandatory but its defiantly worth the extra $20)
(dzignr_tastzs PCV thread)
Oil pressure and temp gauge
Turbo timmer (not necessary if you can wait a few minutes in your car at idle)
(Speed-Factors DIY)
Boost controller (manual or electronic)
OBD-2 scanner (great for trouble shooting)
Oil cooler (not necessary)
Other fun mods:
Alcohol/water injection
Exhaust cutout (Thanks ShrkByt05)
Tools/supplies:
All the standard tools plus:
Torque wrench
Tap/drill bit for oil pan (if you don’t plan on welding it which I suggest)
Oil and filter
Brake cleaner to clean oil pan
Silicon sealer designed for oil pan (I don’t remember what its called)
Blowtorch (to clean off oil pan)
Lots of zip ties
Notes
1. Remote mount system: Basicly the remote system mounts further down the exhaust stream, sometimes replacing the muffler. It is usually run without an intercooler because the air flowing under the car (where the charge pipe is now run) and the length of the pipe act to cool the air. Uses basically the same components as any other turbo kit with the addition of an oil scavenge pump. This is needed because in a typical turbo setup the turbo is mounted higher than the oil pan allowing the oil to gravity feed through the return line back to the pan. In the remote system the turbo is lower than the oil pan, so a pump is used to push it back to the pan. (Tthanks 06orangecrush)
2. If you have a 05+ model you will need to convert your fuel system from a returnless system.
3. Anything you do to your car and any anything that results from that is completely your responsibility.
4. While you can get away with buying no name brands for something’s like the intercooler. Keep in mind what will happen if the part fails (in most cases it will = BOOM) then think if its worth spending the extra $$$ to greatly reduce the chances of component failure.
5. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or corrections to make
Projects to Follow:
Motox244's turbo build:
CLICKY
Octane's Boost Blog
CLICKY
Duffer's Ebay Turbo Kit:
CLICKY
Heratick's Turbo Website:
CLICKY
HYPERormance Turbo Project:
CLICKY
RathIsSolid Turbo Teaser:
CLICKY
EliteWarMachines NGM turbo install:
CLICKY
Paul J. McCains Custom Turbo Build Journal:
CLICKY
Turbo kits currently available for V6 tib = NGM (yes that’s it)
I2tuning has a great partial kit for us which can be found here:
CLICKY
Custom build (here’s what you need)
Mandatory modifications:
*Fuel tuner
(The Power of Dreams Neo DIY)
*290cc injectors (or higher)
*Adjustable 1:1 Fuel Pressure Rregulator w/ gauge
(YoYos DIY)
*At least one solid motor mount (two would be better but one will work)
(Stevis50s homemade DIY)
*Turbocharger
*Turbo flange and downpipe flange
*External Wastegate 38mm or 44mm
*BOV with adapter
*Intercooler
*Piping for intake & intercooler (yes the e-bay pipe kits are fine but buy better couplers)
*Silicon couplers with good clamps (T clamps)
*Custom manifold to turbo/custom downpipe (mandrel bend, also you must get them coated with something so they don’t rust)
*Oil fittings, Oil lines feed & return (don’t cheap out here nothing like a $7 part that can cost you thousands if it fails) you can find Turbo oil kit w/ all you can need (oil feeding line is -4an return oil line must be -10an).
*Bulkhead mate for oil return line (suggest weld on the uppper oil pan)
*Sandwich plate for oil feed (don’t cheap out and do the home depot mod it will break and you could lose your engine just search I did it to start with (preturbo) and almost lost my motor)
*Vacuum splitter / vacuum lines / vacuum line filters
*Boost gauge/line (don’t use those nylon lines just buy small vacuum line it works a lot better and its cheaper)
(philm00xs DIY)
Lots of heat protection
*Sparkplugs (1 to 2 steps colder dependent on planned PSI)
*Recirculating adapters (if you want to go recirculated)
*Clutch and flywheel (because the stock one will go fast)
(lonesharks 6-speed DIY)
*Battery relocation kit
(leber066s DIY)
Highly Suggested:
Exhaust 2.5" or 3"
Headers (if your not going to build a custom manifold directly off the block)
Wideband (then you don’t have to pay for the insane amount of dyno time you would need)
255lph Fuel pump
(r100s DIY)
Oil catch can (in no way mandatory but its defiantly worth the extra $20)
(dzignr_tastzs PCV thread)
Oil pressure and temp gauge
Turbo timmer (not necessary if you can wait a few minutes in your car at idle)
(Speed-Factors DIY)
Boost controller (manual or electronic)
OBD-2 scanner (great for trouble shooting)
Oil cooler (not necessary)
Other fun mods:
Alcohol/water injection
Exhaust cutout (Thanks ShrkByt05)
Tools/supplies:
All the standard tools plus:
Torque wrench
Tap/drill bit for oil pan (if you don’t plan on welding it which I suggest)
Oil and filter
Brake cleaner to clean oil pan
Silicon sealer designed for oil pan (I don’t remember what its called)
Blowtorch (to clean off oil pan)
Lots of zip ties
Notes
1. Remote mount system: Basicly the remote system mounts further down the exhaust stream, sometimes replacing the muffler. It is usually run without an intercooler because the air flowing under the car (where the charge pipe is now run) and the length of the pipe act to cool the air. Uses basically the same components as any other turbo kit with the addition of an oil scavenge pump. This is needed because in a typical turbo setup the turbo is mounted higher than the oil pan allowing the oil to gravity feed through the return line back to the pan. In the remote system the turbo is lower than the oil pan, so a pump is used to push it back to the pan. (Tthanks 06orangecrush)
2. If you have a 05+ model you will need to convert your fuel system from a returnless system.
3. Anything you do to your car and any anything that results from that is completely your responsibility.
4. While you can get away with buying no name brands for something’s like the intercooler. Keep in mind what will happen if the part fails (in most cases it will = BOOM) then think if its worth spending the extra $$$ to greatly reduce the chances of component failure.
5. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or corrections to make