Can't trust that live data for individual cylinders unless it's from a Hyundai tool like HiScan Pro... I wouldn't worry about that cylinder 6 showing 45 degrees of advance. All of the OBD2 tools I've used never gave me accurate results. At idle you normally see between 8-12 degrees of advance depending on a few factors. There is absolutely no way for your car to run 45 degrees of advance at idle anyway. Here is what your OEM idle ignition map looks like. Targeting between 10 and 12 typically.
Even in your OEM ignition map outside of idle, there is absolutely no scenario where your ignition advance would reach 45 degrees. Here is the OEM ignition map with the highest value circled at 3200 RPM in an area of the map you would only use on deceleration:
In conclusion, your OBD2 diagnostics tool is providing incorrect data.
Too many possibilities to diagnose with just that.
What do your long term fuel trims look like? I saw your same post on Facebook with more data but it didn't include long term fuel trims. It does show the idle long term fuel trims but that's not useful information in this case.
P1166 is an O2 sensor heater error. Often caused by a failing O2 sensor or wrong brand O2 sensor. Ensure that if you replace your O2 sensors you only use brands NTK, Denso or Mando. All other brands (including reputable brands like Bosch) will not work correctly. I would start by checking you have the correct brand upstream sensors. Don't worry about replacing the downstream sensors as long as you aren't receiving a DTC/CEL for them.
Otherwise... Looks like bank1 is lean at idle but rich at part load. Bank2 is the opposite, it is rich at idle but just a little rich at part load. Since the LTFTs are separated by about 10% it indicates an imbalance in fuel delivery across both banks. This could be caused by a sticky injector or a faulty upstream O2 sensor on bank1. Another possibility is a faulty spark plug/wire or coil leading to bank1 which causes incompletely burn and a false positive for a rich condition where you see that trim error..
When was the last time you changed your plugs and plug wires? Which brand plugs did you use? What gap were they set to?
When was the last time you changed your injectors or upstream O2 sensors? Which brand did you use?
Can you list any recent work you've had performed including the brand names of everything you installed?
I had codes p0430 and p0133 relating to oxgyen sensors and code P0306 misfiring in cylider 6. For oxygen sensor issue i found a loose connector(but last year i replaced bank 1 sensor1 with one which does not relate to the ones mention In your advice) i fixed it and cleared the codes which havent come back again. I have driven the car for 250 km no MIL yet.For code p0306 i changed the plug wire two days ago and it has not reported the issue yet in the ecu.
Also the car runs fine,but if you turn off the engine wait for a while, re-start then has problem, the engine will start and run for half a second, then it stalls instantly. The only way to get it over is step on the gas, then start the engine, then let it runs at 2500rpm for about 10 - 15 seconds, then the engine is fine.
P1166 is related to B1S1. Check the brand name and make sure it matches one of the three I gave you. NTK, Denso or Mando brands only. All others brands are garbage.
Sounds like you have warm restart issues. Your ECT or IAT sensors are commonly the cause with warm restarts due to incorrectly reported temperatures. Often times they start to fail without throwing a check engine light and go unnoticed. Check both the engine coolant and intake air temps with OBD2 to see if they are close to the actual temperatures they should be.
Crank angle sensors are known to cause intermittent problems from cold to hot. It's kind of a stretch, but this sensor may be related to warm restart issues. It's rare but I have seen it happen.