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Discussion Starter #1
I know, search, search, search.

But I've searched around and I still can't convince my dad as to why I need to remove the spring in the slave cylinder. He keeps saying that everyone who removed it was driving a modded v6 and was driving it hard, and since he bought me the car everything has to be cleared by him first. I've got 500 miles on my 06 5spd I4 and while I haven't modded the car yet, I plan to in the future. I don't drive hard all the time but occasionally I like to show the guy tailing my *** on the highway a thing or two.

If you could, and it would be greatly appreciated, post when your clutch started to slip, how hyundai resolved (or didnt resolve) the problem, and whether you think the spring mod is necessary.


Alright here it goes, I'm ready for the flaming, I've got my heat protective suit on.
 

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Well, removing the spring in the slave cylinder simply firms up the engagement of the clutch. It doesn't make the clutch grip firmer, nor does it make it last longer. The spring's sole purpose is to act as a way to smoothen out engagement of the clutch... because one of the things Hyundai strives hard to achieve is reduced NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). The spring reduces harshness of engagement, smoothening out the transition from fully released to fully engaged. When the clutch is fully engaged, the grip of the clutch on the flywheel is identical with the slave cylinder spring as it is without it.

In addition, removing the spring is likely to cause you problems if you have to get warranty work done on it later. If the dealer discovers you've modified the slave cylinder you can probably kiss your powertrain warranty good-bye.

In short, I'd suggest you leave it in. There are other mods that can help much more with performance that will not void your warranty (SRI and Cat-back exhaust are the two biggest) It doesn't cost you anything to leave the spring in, and it might cost you a lot if you take it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds good. Its just that I've heard so many posts about people saying that everyone should take it out that I thought that it was sort of a necessary thing to do. I'm doing catback and cai soon and they don't void the warranty? How about headers and a new high flow cat?
 

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Jds121 said:
Sounds good. Its just that I've heard so many posts about people saying that everyone should take it out that I thought that it was sort of a necessary thing to do. I'm doing catback and cai soon and they don't void the warranty? How about headers and a new high flow cat?
SRI and CAI will not void your warranty
Cat-back will not void your warranty
Headers WILL void your warranty (don't ask me why, they just do. That seems to be where Hyundai draws the line)

Essentially, for performance you're limited to a CAI/SRI and cat-back exhaust. You can, however also get something like an NGM Stage 3 Intake, which is essentially a ported and polished stock IM, looks identical to the stock intake manifold from the outside, but has much better flow characteristics on the inside. You can also get a Short-throw shifter without ruining your warranty. But that's pretty much it.

Once you start getting into headers, fuel management systems (like SAFC or MAFterburner), underdrive pulleys, Stage 4 intakes and especially superchargers, then you're on your own.
 

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do it all, slave cylinder mod, headers, exhaust, cai. None will completely void your warranty. The only thing mods void are the parts your replace or parts directly affected by the new part. Hyundai will replace your clutch if its under 12,000miles when the failure occures so they say... but if you take out the spring you shouldn't have to much of a problem untill you start street racing like your dad thinks you are.

Look up on a Google search Maguson Moss Warranty Act. that explains the warranty issue and how a dealer can't completely void your warranty because of aftermarket parts.

Tell your dad to call me and i will fully explain to him how removing the spring valve only helps your clutch system. I'll just explain to him how the system in the TIB works then i'll explain why that part shouldn't be there. My father is a state certified auto mechanic, and was ASE certified for 17years. I did it after talking to him about it and we both felt strongly that this part only harms the clutch's engagement and disengagement.
Plus the dealer will never look in there to see if you took it out. and if they do, supposedly some models were made without that part so you could just play that one off.
MODS AWAY!!
 

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i can say you one thing, it didn't change much in my 5spd i4 tib.
 

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Jds121- I am willing to stand behind this mod fully.
Most of what aLiEn_sPoReZ said is true but one thing he said is absolutely wrong, and he even prooves it to himself in what he says.

aLiEn_sPoReZ: "Well, removing the spring in the slave cylinder simply firms up the engagement of the clutch. It doesn't make the clutch grip firmer, nor does it make it last longer. The spring's sole purpose is to act as a way to smoothen out engagement of the clutch... because one of the things Hyundai strives hard to achieve is reduced NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). The spring reduces harshness of engagement, smoothening out the transition from fully released to fully engaged. When the clutch is fully engaged, the grip of the clutch on the flywheel is identical with the slave cylinder spring as it is without it."

OK the key to this mod is exactly that FIRMING THE ENGAGEMENT!! True it doesn't increase the the pressure between the clutch disc and the flywheel, (that would require a pressure plate replacement). But it makes the response from you pushing the clutch pedal to the clutch disengagement more direct and responsive, like wise when you let the pedal go the clutch reengages more responsively to your footmovement. The biggest enemy in Hyundai's clutch system is slow engage and disengage, these 2 things are the DIRECT cause of the clutch slipping accessivly, and wearing prematurely. Now like alien_sporez said the spring reduces harshness, smoothing(or SLOWING) transition from fully released to fully engaged. That my friend spells SLIPP, SLIPP, SLIPP every time you shift. That WILL wear your clutch out prematurely.

I DID this mod in my 06' Tib 4-cylinder 5-speed. Unfortunatly I did it when my cltuch was already showing signs of premature failure. Here is the thing, if you are not an attentative driver meaning you don't pay attention to details of how the car feels, you might not feel the effect in your pedal or in your over all ride. But if you do pay close attention to your before mod pedal response and your after mod pedal response you WILL notice your engagement/disengagement is more closely matched to the exact time you push and release the pedal.
The same hydrolic clutch system is used in the v6 and the 4cylinder as far as i know(dont' quote me)
I may not have a ton of posts on this site yet,(because i've only owned a Tib for 7months) but I can tell you i've been working on cars since i was 10 and on my own cars since the first one i owned, I've rebuilt engines, transmission, and replace almost every part you can think of on a car somewhere at some time. And i'm gonna step out and challenge anyone who thinks that the slave valve spring doesn't have negative effects on the clutch.
Just to let you know I had 13,000 nice and easy highway miles on my Tib when my the clutch started slipping. That right there is enought to proove to me the clutch system sucks. Not to mention my dealer told me flat out that the clutch system is known to fail early and often.
 

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I have headers and the dealer told me that would only effect my emmissons components warranty. As it should.
Each dealer will react differently, because they are privately owned, and some people thing they are better than others so just study up on your warranty.

Maguson Moss Warranty act, If the dealer gives you a hard time put that in their face, and ask them if they want a lawsuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will do, thanks a lot. I will pass this info onto my dad. He however wants to wait for the first clutch to fail and see if hyundai will replace it for free. However, you're the second person I've heard of having their clutch fail at 13,000...1,000 over what is warrantied and since I've had 533 ROUGH miles on my clutch (this is my 1st stick so you can imagine how thats going) I think it might be best to remove the spring and add on a little extra miles. That or I could beat the hell out of it and have it fail before 12, get it replaced for free, and then immediately remove the spring.
 

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Jds121 said:
Will do, thanks a lot. I will pass this info onto my dad. He however wants to wait for the first clutch to fail and see if hyundai will replace it for free. However, you're the second person I've heard of having their clutch fail at 13,000...1,000 over what is warrantied and since I've had 533 ROUGH miles on my clutch (this is my 1st stick so you can imagine how thats going) I think it might be best to remove the spring and add on a little extra miles. That or I could beat the hell out of it and have it fail before 12, get it replaced for free, and then immediately remove the spring.
hey just remove the spring now, and if it starts to fail early put it back in, In no way is it traceable,(unless you hack the slave cylinder to peices while taking it apart) so you could take it to the dealer without fear of being hassled.
DO it, and tell your dad this mod will not ruin your car or your warranty, flat out. It is isolated to the hydrolic fluid flow of the slave cylinder, not the general operation of the engine and so forth.
 

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There, I cleaned up the thread. Now it's an infomative discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Awww...come on man...just let me see his response to my last one and then we can clear it. I want to see real answers as much as anyone (thats why I made this thread) but I'd really like to know how he would have responded.
 
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