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Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

DIY: 
21K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  Charlie-III 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is a very straight forward install unless your bolts are rusted to crap like mine were.

Tools needed:
Socket Wrench X 2 (Air ratchet will cut your install time in half)
19mm Socket X 2
17mm Socket (Deep socket will make things easier)
Jack Stands
Jack (Floor jack will make things easier)
Torch(Option if bolts are rusted)

We had to use the torch to break loose the rust and free the bolt...then followed by lots of turning, and then eventually we go enough room to cut the bolts off. I knew this in advance and bought new bolts and nuts.

What we had to do to get the arms off....first it was fire.




Then some turning


1. Remove both rear wheels for access and clearance purposes. Remove 17mm nut on outer arm. you should be able to pull the bolt through on the opposite side. Repeat for other side.



2. Once both bolts have been removed remove the 4 17mm bolts that hold up the subframe. Bring it down to ground level and remove the final two nuts and bolts. Again they just slide through the subframe.



3. As close as you can make the ingalls arms as close to the oem bar as possible. You will have to turn one left and the other side right. Make sure that the wrench placement on the arm itself is sitting towards the outside of the vehicle.



4. Put arms up to subframe and replace bolt (with new or old) do not forget the washers (i also used anti seize) after both bolts are run through the arms and sub frame snug them down but not all the way.



5. Bring subframe up to the body (i had another person, i held and he HAND THREADED THE BOLTs, DO NOT USE A RACHET OR POWER TOOL TO START THE BOLTS!!!!!) replace botls and torque down to oem spec. you can now run the bolt through the ends of the bar and through the knuckles. Tighten them down now.



6. Put the wheels back on, and drive it over to the alignment rack...the rack that I used was two bays down so running with the rear bolts just snug was ok till i go onto the rack, if you do not have that luxury you need to tighten them down immediately!!!

7. Perform Alignment. To adjust camber move both arms at the same time. After camber is set you can not move one or the other to adjust your toe.

My final alignment settings were...and yes I'm aware they are out of OEM spec.

Front
Camber...-2.0
Toe...0.00

Rear
Camber...-1.5
Toe...0.00

While i was there i also installed new front tie rod ends and balanced my wheels. The car feels much better now. No more vibrations and everything feels much more solid. The poly mounts on the arms makes a big difference as well and really tighten things up quite a bit!!!

Overall, these are a must buy for anybody that needs/wants to correct their camber without using bolts that can slip and rust in place. These are much thicker and better quality then the OEM bars.

Very pleased with the end result!!!

They can be bought at http://www.importshark.com/store/details.php?image_id=384
You will need to buy two sets.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

I went ahead and moved this and also revised it a bit. There was already another DIY for this, but since it was outdated and had no pictures, I replaced it with this. I also replaced the link you had with Mike's(Importshark) because he is a sponsor that offers these. If there is anything else you would like to add, let me know.

As for the DIY itself, good write up. I did these a while back when I did my suspension overhaul. Extremely easy to adjust and IMO definitely stiffens up the rear a bit. The stock bars are so scrawny compared to these. Definitely worth the money.
 
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#4 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

wow..how much did the performance increase after the install?
It's not something that will blow your mind the first time you drive with them, but it helps to stiffen up the rear a bit. I would say these are more geared towards the ability to easily adjust your camber and toe. Makes it extremely easy.
 
#5 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

How does your Tib handle at highway speeds with 0 toe at both ends? I use mine for trips quite a bit.
 
#8 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

Anyone know where i can get some replacement trailing arm bolts?
Sorry to revive on old thread, but i've the same question. I recently tried to install the ingalls smart arms while the tib was lifted for an exhaust mod, and i had to stop and put back the oem arms because the exterior bolts were seized. Next time i'm planning to have replacement bolts and nuts in case i would have to damage them. I was thinking that standard inox bolts and nuts could do the job. The bolts have to be quite long, but that must not be so hard to find. Am i wrong ?
 
#10 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

Thanks, but i bet the local price for these parts will be in the 100 euros range, and they will not have it in stock and will have to order them. If it's basic bolts, i would save time and money buying them at the local tool store.
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

Assuming those part #'s are actually correct, the bolt is $11, the washer is $0.78, and the nut is $1.29.

These are US prices.
 
#12 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

Assuming those part #'s are actually correct, the bolt is $11, the washer is $0.78, and the nut is $1.29.

These are US prices.
Thanks for the search. Just for fun i'll go to the local hyundai dealer and ask them about price and availability for these parts, i'll let you know. I'm planning on a price with three digits in it, and a three weeks wait...
 
#14 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

The bolt is only $4.33 from FourGreen. Might want to check what their international shipping charge is.

The strange thing is the inner bolt (546452C100) that goes through the cross-member is only like 1/4 the cost of the outer one. When I had them both off they looked pretty much the same to me so I don't know why the price difference.
 
#16 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

I can't get the god damn bolt out. grrrrr
Yeah, the hub to control arm bolts were by far the most difficult thing I've ever removed from a car. It took a lot of lube, heat, banging, and frustration to get them out.

I suggest buying new ones before you get started. I reused mine, but probably shouldn't have.
 
#18 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

So to replace these correctly, I should get 2 inner bolts, 2 outer bolts, 4 nuts and 8 washers?

2x 626172E100 outer bolt
2x 546452C100 inner bolt
4x 626182D100 nut
8x 6261617000 washer

I just ordered the ingalls bars. I plan on going coilovers and some nice wide 18" wheels with some better fitment soon.
 
#19 ·
Re: DIY: Ingalls Engineering "Smart Arms" Rear Trailing Arms

I would be VERY careful of just "going to the hardware store for bolts". You would need to read what "class" or "grade" the existing bolts are and make sure the new ones are the same or better.

If you know nothing about "class" or "grade", read here... http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Lots of hardware store stuff is "ungraded", do you really want that holding your suspension together??
 
#20 ·
So I'm reviving this for anyone's help. I ran into the same issue all of you ran into. Problem is I didn't get to this thread before I used a cutting wheel to cut the end of the bolt off (the side where the control arm would connect on, I left the nut there still)

At any rate, I realized at that point there was no salvaging the bolts so I needed to find them. I came across this thread, so I went on a hunt for 10.9 or higher grade metric bolts. One thing I know is the length is 8 and 3/4 inch long, I remember the head of the nut is 19mm, but for the life of me I can't remember the actual bolt size. I believe it is M14, do any of you guys know?

I went to three local Hyundai dealerships and none of them have it. Currently my car is sitting at a mechanic waiting for the bolts. I have the mechanic and myself trying to track down these bolts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#23 ·
First of all, you are the man.. Second of all you are the man!! I have the bolts! Now the only thing is I don't have the nuts! :( I guess I will try a couple more Kia dealerships. If they don't have the nuts, maybe I can get them at a True Value. Do you know what the specs of the nuts are? I think they are 14mm flange nuts but don't know the thread type or if its a serrated nut or not.

Thanks again for your help!
Dan
 
#26 ·
Heat the knuckle where the bolt slides through, use PB blaster, WD-40 or similar in the gap between the bolt and knuckle.
Make SURE you scrape the visible part of the bolt so it goes through the knuckle holes, no need to try driving rust through the hole.
Big hammers with a punch/drift pin may help, a shop press, or (like I have done on similar bolts) use an airhammmer with a pin attachment to push the bolt in. Once it's moving, it should be easier to finish off.

Once apart, dry fit the new bolt to the knuckle, it should slide in easily. Clean things up until it does. When ready to reassemble, put a thin coat of grease on the length of the bolt for next time.
 
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