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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious if there are any safe setups to get a tib to 300 hp for a daily driver. I know a lot of people put 10's of thousands into their cars for shows, and for driving on the weekends, but if I upgrade my tib I want it to be for every day use.

I'm guessing most people would recommend a supercharger over a Turbo for a lower maintenance daily driving setup? I drive about 300-400 miles a week.

The real question is the ballpark $$ figure to get all the parts I would need, and possibly labor as I dont have the knowledge yet to do this. Can you hit 300 safely and regularly without having to build up the bottom end? Im assuming I would at least need a new clutch beyond the standard turbo/sc setup.

Yes Im doing searching, etc, but I havn't been able to find an answer to this question, so I thought Id make a thread. thanks in advance
 

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Just curious if there are any safe setups to get a tib to 300 hp for a daily driver. I know a lot of people put 10's of thousands into their cars for shows, and for driving on the weekends, but if I upgrade my tib I want it to be for every day use.

I'm guessing most people would recommend a supercharger over a Turbo for a lower maintenance daily driving setup? I drive about 300-400 miles a week.

The real question is the ballpark $$ figure to get all the parts I would need, and possibly labor as I dont have the knowledge yet to do this. Can you hit 300 safely and regularly without having to build up the bottom end? Im assuming I would at least need a new clutch beyond the standard turbo/sc setup.

Yes Im doing searching, etc, but I havn't been able to find an answer to this question, so I thought Id make a thread. thanks in advance
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88511

Alpine stage 2 or Sniper with some upgrades.... I,H,E of course, fuel tuner, motor mounts, and a clutch...

5-7K would do it for everything
 

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from experiance 300hp is alot to ask from a tib especially as a daily driver. you can go S/C or turbo but your stock internals will eventually were out quick. if you want a good daily driver go roots S/C with piston work. is going to cost you about 6k and thats cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the link. Ive read through that thread a few times, and it is full of great information.

I guess im not set set on 300hp, but I like the idea of hitting that #... I also read somewhere on this site about the possibility with a custom eCU where you could program different setups that would let you change around compression ratios via a computer link if you wanted to drive under lower compression including the tuning for different compressions air/fuel ratios. At least I think that is what I read.

Is that a more feasible approach?

Does anyone know at what hp/compression I would have to move up in octane from 87?

Thanks again.
 

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How much did the performance parts end up costing you. Did you do the install yourself or have to pay for labor?
I installed everything: Flywheel, Clutch, injectors, blower, mafterburner, intake, headers, etc.

Fidanza FW and stage 4 Clutchmasters clutch: $868
Alpine stage 1: $3,000
290ccc hyundai Injectors: $200
Nextgen Mafterburner: $250
Injen Intake: $164
Hotshot Headers: $645
DC Sports Catback $424
YaYa Motor Mounts $153
Nology Hotwires $126

There are different makes of the parts, and some are cheaper. You have to consider, even though it's a daily driver, it's not under boost conditions constantly (although I boost frequently). When you're driving around and not boosting, there's not any real abnormal stress on the engine. Some members even say that 300whp (not crank hp) is the safety threshold. I believe the 250 whp, 300chp is a nice place to be. It runs good, and doesn't have constant headaches. I did the performance mods over a 3 year period. I'm sure the majority of my warranty is shot. Some members say they're waiting for their warranty to run out before boosting, or until they hit 50k. I say screw that. I boosted mine at 29k when it was still tight. I'd have done it sooner if it was affordable.
 

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Thanks for the link. Ive read through that thread a few times, and it is full of great information.

I guess im not set set on 300hp, but I like the idea of hitting that #... I also read somewhere on this site about the possibility with a custom eCU where you could program different setups that would let you change around compression ratios via a computer link if you wanted to drive under lower compression including the tuning for different compressions air/fuel ratios. At least I think that is what I read.

Is that a more feasible approach?

Does anyone know at what hp/compression I would have to move up in octane from 87?

Thanks again.
The unichip is a tuner that can control fuel and timing, but nothing like compression.

Anyways do you want 300bhp or 300 whp. Huge difference. Im sure you'll be satisfied with a roots s/c with a 2.75 pulley, i/h/e, clutch, mounts, tuner. Depends if you get new or used products to determine final price, but I say anywhere from 4-8k
 

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The Assassin kit should put you just below 300whp with all the correct supporting mods and could be a daily driver. There are several on the boards already, and I will be joining the team in a month or two. If you want 300 or a little above that, you will want to look into new pistons.
 
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