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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
No it's not a faux stang, yes it's functional, and no CF hood fitment problems. I've been looking at cowl scoops and hood vents for almost 2 years now, and finally made that move. Got to cut a foot off the back and start riveting and glassing. I was gonna' cut 4 holes, but now just gonna' do 2, and they're between the support beams so it'll stay structurally intact. I decided to mold in a $100 cowl and repaint instead of a $450 CF hood (Incl s/h). I know it's not for everyone, but neither are tibs.







Cowl Induction Hood - How It Works

Air glides over the cowl induction hood. It then hits the base of the windshield, creating a low pressure area, allowing the hot air to escape from the engine compartment.
 

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I would say no if you didnt have such power under it but it goes well with your performance ;)
 

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looks awesome man keep us updated with new pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I'm going to finish mounting it tomorrow, and then finish molding it over the next week when I'm not constantly at work, but then it's gonna' have black primer for awhile. Then I'm going to get paint on the front bumper I just glassed back together and the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh well, I ordered a 3" rise so when I cut the rear off to fit the curve, it would be a 2 1/2" rise but they sent a 3 1/2" rise, which after cutting is just under 3". Too high but too late now. Didn't notice until I mounted it. Got a layer of glass under it and and riveted on. It's ugly but driveable now anyway. I'll start molding it in over the next week or two. I ended up cutting 4 vent holes out, and then put mesh in so it won't look so tacky from underneath. Not that anyone else wants to butcher their hood with a full scoop, but I did pictures on the whole process so I can put together a DIY.

















 

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wow man great work........u give me some good ideas as ive been debating cutting open my rear cowl on my mussa hood to let some hot air out.......VERY nice.......is that on a stock hood?..i assume so since ur using the heat pad absorber
 

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are u worried at all about water getting up in there when it rains?......also....would some water dripping down the firewall and rear side of the engine damage anything?........im thinkiin it would have to be a downpour to really get up in enuff to damage anything vital......could always make a painted piece to attach for a sudden bad storm.......do u plan on just meshing the cowl exit?


.......and thats some nice molding work u have ahead of u...good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the positive comments. I know not everyone likes this look on a tib.
I've been thinking about the water thing since before mounting. The rear holes are about 8" from the firewall, so no problem there. The front ones are close to the plugs and coil, so hopefully nothing gets in. I don't think it will. A cowl is more effective if you get it close to the windshield so it can take advantage of the current there. I had this about 1 1/2" away from it, but I was a little concerned about one day, the hood being opened with the wipers up, or being able to get the wiper arm off easily, so I cut it back some more. I angled the back of the scoop about an 13/4" past the rear edge of the hood.

I wasn't sure about meshing the opening yet, so I'm putting that off until last. Hate to see a bunch of pine needles and animals move in there. I may just bend the mesh so it has an inside edge on the top and bottom, and silicone it in place.
 

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i like it a lot. I too need some kind of vents in my hood. my engine bay gets REALLY hot even with just normal driving. I dont want c/f, and I dont want a full fiberglass hood, so this would be the way to go. I'd just be worried that it wouldn't look as good on my white tib. Do you have a link of where you were looking at the scoops? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Mista D said:
i like it a lot. I too need some kind of vents in my hood. my engine bay gets REALLY hot even with just normal driving. I dont want c/f, and I dont want a full fiberglass hood, so this would be the way to go. I'd just be worried that it wouldn't look as good on my white tib. Do you have a link of where you were looking at the scoops? Thanks
Somewhere in last months appearance thread are pics of tibby03 pearl white tib with a cowl scoop on it. He had his put on while I was still trying to decide. That'll give you an idea with it in white. Here's the link to tibby03's white tib with the sccop:
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80222

Beleive it or not, unless you're looking for a small scoop, there isn't any out there with a curve to fit our hoods. They're all flat except these stang scoops that have a slight curve. And they won't fit unless you cut one or two feet off the rear and slide it back until the curve somewhat fits so you can lay it down without stressing it.

Here's where I got mine (87' - 93' mustang cowl scoop)
http://stores.ebay.com/Carbon-Fiberglass-USA

Lou (tibby03) got his from Unlimited.
 

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bagpiper said:
Somewhere in last months appearance thread are pics of tibby03 pearl white tib with a cowl scoop on it. He had hi put on while I was still trying to decide. That'll give you an idea with it in white. Here's the link to tibby03's white tib with the sccop:
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80222

Beleive it or not, unless you're looking for a small scoop, there isn't any out there with a curve to fit our hoods. They're all flat except these stang scoops that have a slight curve. And they won't fit unless you cut one or two feet off the rear and slide it back until the curve somewhat fits so you can lay it down without stressing it.

Here's where I got mine (87' - 93' mustang cowl scoop)
http://stores.ebay.com/Carbon-Fiberglass-USA

Lou (tibby03) got his from Unlimited.
Damn that looks pretty sweet! thanks for all the info man. it helped me out a lot!
 

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i have to say, that looks pretty sweet

there's a 350z around here with a similar looks hood and it looks awesome
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Getting closer to bondo time. I used the strand glass this time instead of the mat, and it takes forever to sand down. I wanted to keep as much of the scoop to the front prior to cutting the rear, but you cant go all the way to the front or the curve won't fit. I wanted to mold it so the front looks like a gradual curve fromt the front edge of the hood to the rear, and it looks like I pulled it off so far. And my wiper nozzles work just like before. I was worried I was going to have to relocate them. I'm still debating on filling the front badge holes in, but I have polished billet T' badges that look good on the black.





 
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