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Discussion Starter #1
So for the last several years I have worked on building my car to NASA TTF rules. Now the rules are changing and I would have to run the car in TT6 which has a 16:1 WT:HP ratio currently im sitting around 23:1 24:1 so getting rid of weight will be one thing but wont get there car anywhere close. The measurements must come from a DynoJet and are a average rating so peak needs to be close to 180 to 200. Is this possible on a NA setup. The car is not used on the street and is a trailer queen for most part. Cat cams has a nice radical cam for NA but basically the motor would be full race setup. My other option is to go for the FI and do that but id rather stay NA usually alot less problems at the track that way. Any help greatly appreciated! reply back or PM me thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also the car currently has a BETA II in it. Would building a BETA I be easier? it seems the aftermarket is better to the BETA I for stuff like bearings pistons rings stuff like that.
 

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Engine internals are the same between the Beta blocks, plus you'll be able to rev the 2 much higher which you will have to do to reach 200whp. Figure about 5k for a complete NA engine build and another 3k for the standalone needed to run it. You got that?
 

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Main thing you will have to do is get that head flowing well get someone who's really good at porting heads like a professional who does it for a living give them a extra head to test on also if they need it ,after you get the heads to glow well get a cam to match the heads then get the proper intake and exhaust to match with the head, probably a custom intake manifold, and exhaust length exhaust, and get higher comparison pistons and good rods with most of that you should make good power, and also get over sized valves
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Its more than I would like to spend I was hoping for something around 5k. I feel I may be able to get the HP cheaper by FI with a turbo. But seems guys at the track with aftermarket turbo setups seem to have more trouble. Also I'm not looking to do it as cheap as possible. Im looking to do it right but more or less which setup will be more reliable and cost effective. Ive enjoyed 10 years of track use and probably close to 10k miles on track. With VERY little problems, usually just clutch or TOB. So thats were my crossroads is right now.
 

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Usual boost number across platforms is under 10PSI boost on a NA engine stock, some like 8PSI max.
This is just boosting a stock NA engine with some help.

Too much boost, likely to blow expensive bits.

A lot comes down to DD with good gas vs. track car that gets trailered.
Blow up a track car, fine, fix it.
Blow up a DD, poop..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ya understand. Im willing to do a race gas or E85 only setup. Unfortunately most shops around seem to give you the run around when you talk to them about doing a race build. They blow you off like youre a street racer that wants a fast DD. This is a trailered usually not licensed track car. In no way shape or form am I worried about street drivability. Looking to win at the track, how ever I want reliable (with in sense). I realize that when you push on things the weakest link snaps. I am prepared for that like you said Charlie if it goes pop at the track do the ride of shame on the flat bed back to the paddock find some people to help push it on trailer and figure out what went wrong.
 

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Your best bet would be E85 and a standalone to start with. I recommend a Haltech Elite 1000 with a flex fuel sensor. Will be about 2000 total and if you install yourself I have a map to get you going.
 

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Wish you a lot of luck. After 4 yrs of PDX I know how hard it is to find a shop that understands our cars and are willing to work on then.
Awesome fun on the track tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your best bet would be E85 and a standalone to start with. I recommend a Haltech Elite 1000 with a flex fuel sensor. Will be about 2000 total and if you install yourself I have a map to get you going.
Dude ive seen some of the stuff that you have done. Ive actually forgot alot of it, its been years!! Would love for you to walk me through some of this. And the E-85 was def the direction I was going to go. There is a company that offers full race cams for the tibby. I just need someone smarter than I am to help teach me and guide me through this. I was going to buy a used motor and send it off to a shop to build but theres no one close that is willing or familiar to the platform that can do that. Heck the last builder that I called said even if they were familiar with the platform and did do it there was a 14-16 week lead time to get it done at best. So I think im going to go at it my self just need someone I can get pointers from.
 

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Perhaps all lightweight well balanced internals and all spinning parts (clutches and pulleys) and reving to like 9-10k with high cams and oversized valves with proper head work, BTB, straight pipe and maybe water injection to fight knock and cool the air.... and of course dry sump.... ok i need to stop dreaming.... A/C has to go too...
 

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I don't have really more to add, but consider this.
You are looking for 100HP/liter on a NA, this has been for a long time a goal for designers and builders.
:nerd2::grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't have really more to add, but consider this.
You are looking for 100HP/liter on a NA, this has been for a long time a goal for designers and builders.
:nerd2::grin2:

these guys are way past that! https://youtu.be/YRFrFudg7eM Their place is located just 2 hrs east of me already contacted them. They assured 200 HP N/A shouldnt be a problem if properly done. However they only work on Honda, Mitsu, and one other make. But not Hyundai :( . He said he wouldn't mind doing a build on something like that except they are 14-16 weeks out on Honda motors on stuff they do on a daily basis and know exactly and what to do. So taking on a build that would be experimental/custom would no be a good business move at this time.
 
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