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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I got it done. There was far less room under there than I had immagined. I was able to pump the piping up to 2 1/4", and reduce the 100 degree angle where the two banks meet to about a 70. Definately no room to make them equal length or it would be scraping over speed bumps. I also havent had time to get the high flow cat on as the shop would not move the stock cat so i just had them put a flange on and ill deal with it later, lol. Wish it could have turned out a little better but not bad considering I still do not want to go with full headers. Pics and vid:





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Putting this up as a feeler to see what everyone thinks of my design. As is it is still in the design stage. I do not want a full header and this would fill my needs, lol. I would like as many comments and suggestions as you are willing to give. Please use constructive criticism, thanks for reading:



LUCK3Y Racing Technology
N/A Downpipe

Application: 2003 - 2008 Hyundai Tiburon V6
This product was designed for those of you seakng improved top end HP without sacraficing bottom end torque and maintaining a quiet "sleeper" exhaust note. It acheives increasd peak flow via the elimination of the restricitve stock 'Y' pipe, increased pipe diameter to 2.5", equal length runners before the 'Y' pipe, and the use of a high flow catalytic converter. Low end torque will remain while keeping some backpreasure with the stock exhaust manifolds. Included in this kit is a Magnaflow high flow catalitic converter increasing exhaust flow over the stock unit. The piping is 2.5" mandrel bent aluminized steel. Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot-dip coated with an aluminum-silicon alloy containing between 5 and 11% silicon to promote better adherence. It offers more corrosion resistance than galvanized steel and is 20 times more heat resistant than cold-rolled steel and 5 times more heat resistant than galvanized steel. The flex coupler as well as the rear 02 bung are made of 100% stainless steel. This downpipe comes coated in a high temp flat black ceramic based paint, complete with stainless steel hardware, and all gaskets.

The LRT N/A Downpipe does not suffer from an extremely loud or raspy exhaust like full headers would. The noises are similar to what your cat back is pushing out now, with less rasp at WOT due to the Magnaflow cat. This product should not produce a cell thanks to its effective high flow cat, and you should pass emissions as well. This product installs between your stock exhaust manifolds and your stock or aftermarket catback exhaust. Installation in under 30 minutes, provided your stock downpipe bolts are not completely rusted together.

Questions: Please feel free to contact me


 

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hmmm interesting concept, i find it appealing because i dont want a super load exhaust. hows performance compared to headers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Not sure yet as I have yet to build it. I'm shooting for at least 50% of what a full header would offer (what are the HP figures for full headers?) I think that is an accurate assessment based on the design characteristics. I think most of the rasp in a full header comes from the thinner material used at manifold end which causes the higher pitch 'pings'. With these you would be using your stock manifolds which are made of a much thicker and denser material thus absorbing alot of noise. The magnaflow cat will also help in reducing rasp =).
 

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when do u think these bad larrys will be built and ready for dyno? id be interested if the price/results were good
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Shooting for late summer / early fall. Aiming for a price of around $300 shipped. I am only planning on making 2, but a jig will be made, so if there is a huge demand and someone can possibly produce these cheaper and faster I will probably offer the jig along with a detailed c.a.d. designed technical drawing for sale and reproduction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just checked the 'official header thread' and the HP gains range anywhere from 8 to 25, so Im hoping for between 4 and 12.5 hp gains ( i know big spread but so are the headers numbers, lol).
 

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Could you make one without the highflow cat? Just a straight pipe that connects directly to the catback exhaust. There's already a cat on each stock manifold.

Also, add an extra bung hole for a wide band o2 sensor in a convenient location.

$200 shipped without the highflow cat. I'm willing to drive down to Indy to pick it up.

I'll buy it. I'm tired of clearing o2 related CEL's from my SSA headers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
thought i would bump it to the top, see if i can get anymore discussion out of it before i start the project.


Could you make one without the highflow cat? Just a straight pipe that connects directly to the catback exhaust. There's already a cat on each stock manifold.
Would the 2 precats be enough to not throw a cell? Im going to run with a high flow on mine (for sound dampening reasons, but a straight pipe could easily be put in instead.
 

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Im gonna be honest this probably isnt going to be worth it. The idea is good but you forgot about another flaw of the stock exhaust manifolds. they are 3-1 but they go into a cat. You need to get rid of that. This modification might net you 3hp. Thats just my opinion, i applaud you for trying to come up with new innovative ways to increase performance for tibs. Like I said however because of other design flaws with the stock system this will not be cost effective or give the performance you are expecting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I can disagree on nice headers for $200, ebay headers with unknown metals (corrosion in a few years?, and mediocre welds, i would pass. I do like the SFR for $850 though, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
What about the precats? I guess they could be taken off the stock headers but it would be more of a long headache and would be custom done by the end user. These were more designed for an ease of installation concept.

1) I know that the stock bend where the two banks meet is rediculously restrictive.
2) A high flow cat will net small gain and offer better exhaust note.

In all honesty, the main goal of my entire exhaust is: sounding pure sexx > performance (but the more the better).
The rest of my car is built to be a N/A powerhouse with more to come, and the major bottleneck for me will always be the headers, lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I guess the best question to ask is why do headers add so much noise and rasp? Is it thickness of material, elimination of 2 or 3 cats, type of material, design of the bends, or a combination? The stockers are cast steel (im sure with other metals to a lesser degree) correct?
 

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What you need to do is fab one up and dyno (don't forget a baseline dyno). Throwing a number out there because it might sound reasonable isn't a good assessment as to whether this would be worth it. Basically, it would show whether or not replacing the stock downpipe and cat with a larger diameter pipe/possibly more efficient bend/hi-flow cat, yet retain some of the quietness, would really make a difference. Basically, you need to prove the concept.
 
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