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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Awesome content keep us updated i can't wait to see more . I hope that sludge in the oil didn't hurt the bottom end , because these bottom ends can make good power stock long block. What is your power goals?
Thanks man will do. It’s not far from finished.
As for power, 250whp would be nice but we’ll see where 10-12psi pulls it up, I think Aussie Dyno’s read a bit lower than ur dyno’s ( so I’ve read anyway) I want to keep it safe as I really don’t feel like pulling the engine incase it blows up or lifts the head or the clutch starts slipping.

The sludge has been a real pita. When I took the cams out and replaced the lifters I couldn’t get the timing right, took me a few goes which was frustrating.
Some of the sludge i dislodged from the head made its way to the sump. I clocked up about 100kms after I got it back together and had to take the sump off again as it was leaking and there was a heap of sludge sitting in the bottom of the pan. But that gave me the chance to clean it out again. I’ve been worried about it blocking my oil feed but I think I’ve gotten the worse of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The MagnaFlow High Flow Cat 200 cell.. What’s the Part Number? Did You Buy it off the actual magnaflow site .. Reason I ask because there are to many fakes
I got it from eBay, hope it’s not a fake.
The part number is in the description

 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Just installed a catch can and vacuum block while waiting to get my intercooler pipes back from the fabricator. He’s welding on some barb fittings, bov and IACV

For the catch can I tee’d the pcv and and valve cover breather together and they’ll run into the input port on the catch can. The output will run down to the turbo intake so it’ll be always sucking air out of the valve cover (hopefully I’ve got that right)

Rather than having several tee’s in the vacuum lines I decided to go with a vacuum block. The source for the vacuum block is the main vacuum port on the intake manifold.
This will feed out to the bov, boost gauge and Haltech internal map sensor when I get that installed. I’ll just plug it for now.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I got all my intercooler pipes back from the fabricator today. I put it all back together and took it for it’s first little rip. Surprisingly it feels quite quick and responsive even on low boost about 5 psi. I did see it hit 8psi for a second there. There’s very little turbo lag. 3000rpm and it’s spooling.
The stock ecu was getting a workout trying to keep the AFR’s within reason. It kept them around 11.5-12.5 on boost. I never gave it 100% throttle tho, maybe about 60-70%.

I also installed a manual boost controller for when it’s time to turn it up a bit.

Now I’ve just got to get some injectors and book it in for a haltech ecu and tune. I’m thinking I’ll go with some Bosch 650cc injectors and aim for 10-12psi.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Bit of an update.
I broke / damaged the transmission after doing some pulls and may have launched it a bit too hard. Rather than trying to fix it I picked up a low mileage 2006 Elantra Beta 2 trans. They claim it only has 50,000kms and hopefully it’s stronger. I gave it a bath with some degreaser and pressure wash.

It took me about an hour to drop the trans out and about 5 hours to install the new trans. Had some issues getting the splines lined up and had to swap over mounts. My brother helped me lift it and get it into place. I don’t know how some ppl do it by themselves.


The trans are pretty much identical, I was told I had to get a Beta 2 TOB but mine fit fine. I checked with Hyundai, they are the same part number.
I pulled the TOB off my pressure plate just with a flat head screwdriver. It took about 10 mins just to push the clip down and pop the bearing out. Also re-cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate.

Hopefully I have better luck this time round.

(beta 2 trans on the left)
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
What broke in the transmission? 3rd gear?
Not exactly sure what happened but it wouldn’t go into 3rd and 5th properly and when in reverse the car went forward 😂 It would engage those gears with a bit of grinding but there was no distinctive click when trying to put it into 3rd and 5th

I gave it a bit of a launch with wheel spin and then put it in 2nd and it popped back out and that was it, no noise. I just babied it home in 2nd.
I think it was a combination of 17in wheels with new tires, course road and too much wheel spin and torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I had a close call today.
I took the Elantra into town to go to the shops. When I pulled up in the car park I noticed a burning oil smell. I popped the bonnet / hood and had a look. There was a lot of oil on the front of the block and on the sump. I checked underneath and there was a pool of oil about the size of a basketball.
On further inspection the turbo oil return hose was split where the bottom clamp is. The hose is a rubber oil resistant 19mm hose that comes with the turbo, I must have over tightened the clamp which cut through the hose and got worse over time.

I checked the oil level on the dipstick and it wasn’t even registering. I called my partner and she brought me over some tools and some oil. While waiting for my partner I followed the oil trail on foot for about 150 metres down the road.
I managed to fix the hose, top it up with oil and drive it home. Luckily there was no rod knock on start up, there was some lifter ticking which cleared up shortly after starting it.

Lesson learnt, don’t over tighten clamps and install an oil pressure gauge. Replacing this hose and installing an oil pressure gauge will be next on my list. I was contemplating on installing the gauge earlier but never went ahead with it. I will now though 😬
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I contacted a shop a few hours drive away to get a quote on supplying, fitting and tuning a haltech elite 750.
The quote came back a bit more than expected. Price is in AUD
What’s u guys thoughts ?
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Electrical work is not cheap. I doubt a plug n play harness exists for your chassis so it has to be customized regardless. Although a rate of 150/hr for 18 hrs is a bit high, he is diving into an unknown chassis and wants to quote high so there are no surprises.

If you think the hardware costs are too high, try obtaining the parts yourself and install it yourself. That should offset some cost. The tune itself for 1000 is about the going rate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I didn’t know they charged that much per hour these days but as u said he’s not normally working on Hyundai’s, it’s more so Jap imports and commodores and falcons. I managed to find an ecu pinout of an 2001 RD Tib which is similar and another one online with some Elantra wiring.

From what he told me, he was going to run complete stand-alone on the haltech and remove the factory ecu all together.
To do all this he said he’d remove the dash to get at the ecu.

Im going to contact another shop that specialises in ecu installs and tunes and see if they can get me a quote.
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Personally if I was you I'd just wire in my own . First get an general idea of wiring and reading wiring diagram. Then go wire by wire and wire the ecu to the factory harness. You shouldn't have to remove the dash to get to the ecu. But if the ecu is under the dash like most older Hyundai's it can get tight. But if you can pull the loom down a little it can help with more room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Personally if I was you I'd just wire in my own . First get an general idea of wiring and reading wiring diagram. Then go wire by wire and wire the ecu to the factory harness. You shouldn't have to remove the dash to get to the ecu. But if the ecu is under the dash like most older Hyundai's it can get tight. But if you can pull the loom down a little it can help with more room.
Yes I wish I could do it on my own but i reckon it’s a bit out of my skill level. I can wire car stereo’s but an ECU hmmm maybe not.

I found another guy that specialises in ecu installs, custom engine harnesses and tuning with Haltech’s. His quote was $1500 install and $800 dyno which is a fair bit cheaper. Im going to go with that, I just have to drive a bit further to his shop.
 

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Yes I wish I could do it on my own but i reckon it’s a bit out of my skill level. I can wire car stereo’s but an ECU hmmm maybe not.

I found another guy that specialises in ecu installs, custom engine harnesses and tuning with Haltech’s. His quote was $1500 install and $800 dyno which is a fair bit cheaper. Im going to go with that, I just have to drive a bit further to his shop.
I understand that not everyone is willing to jump into wiring like that and I know why. Also Thats not a bad price definitely I'd go with him mostly if he does great work.
 
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