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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A lot of you probably have come across my Exterior Project, which I have effectively completed (well not entirely) and not yet unveiled to the internet- sorry guys; there's a good reason for it.

In Post #231 I wrote:

"After this exterior project, I do have plans for a shaved and partially-tucked engine bay anyway, so what I thought I'd do is lay the adhesive over the area, to act as a filler, and also smooth out other details. For example, I ground off some welded-in nuts which were intended to hold the washer reservoir and ABS module..."

Well I have been working on just that (and more haha).


Let's get started.

First, I am extremely grateful that I have been blessed with the opportunity to do this. I have a friend who's in the process of opening a car shop and has let me use the space to work on my car in my spare time. That said I have been working on the project on my own and expect it to stay that way. That is, I don't think my project will be receiving any additional or professional help from others.

Before this project, in October 2018 something went horribly wrong with my steering. Thankfully it was while I was in a parking lot. In short: it would steer to the left way too much, and to the right not enough (and even that wouldn't be consistent). I assumed the steering rack failed, which I expected to fail next on my car, and as such I had already bought a replacement steering rack ahead of time. So part of this project will involve investigating what happened and overgo its repair. I figure at this point I could as well do a full power steering delete, and it'd be best to replace the timing belt as well. over the 2018-19 winter I had the poor thing parked outside. Here we are at the end of March 2019 when I had it towed over:



Absolutely disgusting. The worst of it is not seen in the photo. This is what happens after several years of neglect + shortening CAI to prevent hydrolock (due to not having fender liners) + throwing and zip-tying things in the engine bay quick to drive the car again upon completion of previous exterior project lol (I can explain all of that). There is many years' worth of road salt, dirt, grease & oil all over the place.

Poor headers :( I will put in the effort to restore these.


Also, if you didn't catch it: one stud is missing - which was actually a bolt since I stripped the threads on the headers install so instead installed a longer bolt.

More on missing bolts later...

I don't like to start the thread off like this as a neglegence of care is not how I treat things; it's not who I am. So let's fix that.





More grossness here:


That is a coating of dirt stuck in place. Here it is cleaned up with some brake cleaner:


This side, while also dirty, is black because when I was 20 years old I thought it was a neat idea to paint whatever of the engine bay that I could until eventually I'd have it all black. lol, I was a kid...:


As for the steering rack. Well, it could have an internal issue (likely does), but it seems my issue was really mostly a simple matter of two out of four bolts having gone missing:


Also notice how disgusting this area is lol. More on that later when we get to the subframe work haha.
Now you might wonder: how do two bolts go missing? I have a guess as to why: solid motor mounts. I have them installed front & rear. Never in the ownership of my car had the steering rack been removed, or had its bolts loosened for any reason (heck, even the subframe has never been fully removed), so I cannot think of any other reason than extra and particular vibration frequencies causing them to loosen. The steering rack & motor mounts are all attached to the subframe after all. Anyway, between the steering rack having sported over a third of a million kilometers of use, having ripped boots, and having been in a collision it is worthwhile to simply replace the rack. Looking forward to doing that.


With the engine & steering investigation out of the way it's time to get onto the fun stuff 8)

Time to cut some profiles with cardboard:




Part of my project here involves closing up the engine bay (including the underside- more on that later) so that dirt can virtually no longer get into it ever again, ensuring it remains always clean. I have a few things in mind to help the aerodynamics as well :p That is, I am going to angle the radiator and vent the hood.
 

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So glad to see you back posting about the car. I always drop in here to check.

I'm sure you will do a great job. look forward to seeing the final results.
 

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The steering issue could have been a poor alignment job as well. Most shops don't take the time to ensure the rack is in the neutral position before doing the alignment. :(

Holy crap that was some dirt! lol Almost like a supermodel that's hot on the outside but rot on the inside.. ;)

One thing that concerns me with all this engine bay tucking going on is how it could compromise the crash structure. Having been in a head on collision myself I can attest to the effectiveness of Hyundai's design. Welding plates over crumble zones could negate any benefits they give in a crash. Just something to think about. There's a reason most tucked and shaved cars are tailored to shows.. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So glad to see you back posting about the car. I always drop in here to check.

I'm sure you will do a great job. look forward to seeing the final results.
Thanks man, I can appreciate that ! Yes, I have taken a lot of photos of the last few months and will progressively keep adding over the next few weeks.
 

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The steering issue could have been a poor alignment job as well. Most shops don't take the time to ensure the rack is in the neutral position before doing the alignment. :(

Holy crap that was some dirt! lol Almost like a supermodel that's hot on the outside but rot on the inside.. ;)

One thing that concerns me with all this engine bay tucking going on is how it could compromise the crash structure. Having been in a head on collision myself I can attest to the effectiveness of Hyundai's design. Welding plates over crumble zones could negate any benefits they give in a crash. Just something to think about. There's a reason most tucked and shaved cars are tailored to shows.. ;)
Yeah that's a fair point to consider. But in my case I am sure a major contributing factor is my negligence of the power steering system. About 4 or 5 years ago the power steering fluid leaked out somewhere (never checked where) and left it that way because basically I liked it better without power steering. Effectively ran the steering with virtually no fluid; air in system among lots of dirt likely. I am sure to some degree the rack experienced heat that it wasn't designed for (or at least for any prolonged period of time). Thing is during this period I had already bought my replacement rack so I didn't care for it failing.

lol, wait until you see my next post for dirt haha...

Yes, I understand. This project actually has experienced zero welding for the clean engine bay design. I had something else in mind that I believe will be the best of both worlds, which I will demonstrate in the next post. I don't like the idea of a car being for "show only" - I like to challenge myself and get that "show" level but have the car still be drive-able in daily driving conditions. This approach sure takes a massive more amount of thought & design, but I like that sort of thing haha. This is something I will demonstrate with this project, you'll see :p
 

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So, one massive advantage of working in a shop is that I have access to a sand blaster :p

Here's the brake booster. Outright filthy.


and here it is blasted:

Will be followed up with paint later.

Next it was time to take off the subframe:


Look a little closer at it:


I honestly cannot describe how much dirt there was on this thing. I should have weighed it before and after (oh yeah there's a scale at the shop here too so I have been weighing things as I went along haha). I have done several things for weight reduction on this car such as AC delete, CF hood, etc., but I think cleaning the engine bay shed off a good deal of pounds as well just from the sheer amount of crap stuffed in it.

Now back to the bread and butter. I want to clean things up generally as much as I can, so one thing I ended up doing after some debate back and forth in my head was to relocate where the brake lines go through. These brake lines will effectively be hidden because I am creating a panel that goes against the firewall which will hide the lines behind it, among other things such as wires. That's what the cardboard profiles were for in my last post. More on that in a later post.



Next, it was time to start grinding:


Followed by working with a steel wire wheel:


Now for the fun stuff: body panel adhesive.


I wanted to avoid using solely body filler to avoid cracking considering the type of forces that the chassis experiences. I figure the adhesive will really help to smooth things out, but also have just enough of a structural rigidity component that it won't crack, yet also not compromise crash structure in the area (compare to welding which would alter the original chassis structure rigidity drastically).

After lots of sanding and primer I could then start to lay body filler:


At one point, while looking at the engine bay I realized this area in front of the strut is not symmetrical with the driver's side. So, I went ahead and made some cuts, adjusted the sheet metal, and adhered it back together. Not 100% symmetrical with the driver's side, but at least now it's not immediately obviously different. I know the reason for why the surface is that way to to hold one part of the motor mount, but I have modified that mount as will be seen.



Anyway, more filler and sanding:


Eventually I could work on making a consistent radius across intersecting surfaces:
 

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I am not sure what I think of all this. I am sure it will look better. I too can attest to the crunch points and design into the car by the manufacturer. I have wrecked two tibb's, and they both folded i the same spot and were almost completely symmetric in bending, one on the right and other on the left.
 
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