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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now I plan on turboing my car in the near future........school = lack of funds.
so for now (this summer) I am rebuilding the engine, new CAI, exaust (im thinking SSA), and a new CAM.

I have an 03 Tib. Auto, 4 banger

What I would like to know is what is the best type of CAM to get for my type of Tib.
any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Summit doesn't sell cams for the Tib. I wouldn't jump into the cam department before boosting your car. If your gonna get cams designed for a blown engine then having no boost will probably hurt performance, just as buying cams not designed for boost and then slapping a turbo on it in a year from now....

Plus I get the feeling that new cams on a 2.0L I4 isn't going to give you the glug glug glug of a cammed v8...probably more like a tick clack bang kinda sound..

In the same boat as you though as far as money and school though. Just save up and get the turbo and kspec cams for f/i at the same time.
 

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Now I plan on turboing my car in the near future........school = lack of funds.
so for now (this summer) I am rebuilding the engine, new CAI, exaust (im thinking SSA), and a new CAM.

I have an 03 Tib. Auto, 4 banger

What I would like to know is what is the best type of CAM to get for my type of Tib.
any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
First things first, the Beta2 has TWO cams, as in Dual Overhead Camshafts.

Now onto the other stuff. If you have a lack of funds, rebuilding an engine is not for you. Neither is a set of camshafts. Both are going to cost alot of money, because there isn't that huge of a demand in the aftermarket for Hyundai internals or camshafts, so prices are high . Now as Jds said, buying cams now will not be beneficial if you're planning to go boost. NA cams are designed to help air move quicker and faster, whic maximizes overlap. FI cams are designed for very little overlap to avoid forcing air back into the intake tract. If you install a set of cams designed for an FI car on your NA car, you're not only going to hurt performance(prior to boost) but you're going to be wasting money tuning the car , when you have plans on changing everything anyway.

If you're going boost a CAI is a waste of money unless we're talking years down the road, since it is going to be replaced by your charge piping and such for your turbo setup.

In my opinion you have AT LEAST 6 months of researching and studying to do on Forced induction and more specifically turbo's before you even consider any type of boost. After you think you have learned everything, read everything again, and then read it again. Trust me, unless you REALLY want to rebuild your engine or spend months troubleshooting your car, I would spend hours familiarizing yourself with the subject.
 

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Uhhhhh dude,
ya got er backwards F/I cam's have little overlap and N/A cam's have alot. Turbo's hate overlap.
Thanks man, my bad. My mind wasn't with me this morning...this is why I shouldn't have been posting at the end of a 16 hour work day...uggghh, hope the kid didn't go running out and buy some cams, that'd be funny:3_headsha
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a lot....i did not know that about cams.........I dont plan on doing anything to the Tib. untill schools finished sooooo mid April, so I do plan on doing lots of research before I start buying aftermarket parts.
Thanks again - Ryan
 

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I have Tigerlily 272 degree cams on my I4. Bought them from Rick a long time ago, so don't ask me if he still sells them. No idea.

The cams, however, are sweet. Can't say there is a better N/A mod for the I4 on the market.
 

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I've been looking for someone with cam's installed.
Did you run that with the stock ecu?
How is the idle with 272 cam's?
did you dyno it????
 

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I've been looking for someone with cam's installed.
Did you run that with the stock ecu?
How is the idle with 272 cam's?
did you dyno it????
No, never dyno'd it as they didn't have a dyno in Guam where I installed the cams, and never got to it in Texas.

It's stock ECU.

The ECU is "smart" in that it will eventually learn the A/F mixture. At first, however, it has a slight difficulty running after you turn it over. The only problem is keeping it running when you turn it over or come to a stop.

Say you turn the key on a hot engine. Okay, the engine turns over and runs. But, when the RPM's drop (on a hot engine, it immediately drops to idle), it may drop too far and cause the car to turn off because of low vacuum or whatever.

But, this is only a temporary problem. If you know how to play with the throttle --- just with your feet to keep it from turning off, then you can deal with it, whether it's when you're turning it over or coming to a stop. Trust me, you learn how to play with the throttle and/or clutch to prevent this. It's a learned technique. Actually, pretty cool as well.

Like I said, after so many driving cycles, the ECU adapts and you no longer have that problem. It has to learn the cams + A/F first.

So, when all is said and done, there is no problem.

You can definitely hear the lopiness with the 272s. The car has a lot more power on the high end and more power on the middle powerband. The exhaust note screams on the higher end as well. Pretty sweet mod. I bought them for $1000 though, so...yeah. Like I said, I have no idea where Rick is or if he sells them anymore. If you know someone in Korea, they can probably get them.

Sorry about not having a dyno. Just didn't feel it was worth the money at the time since I no longer planned on turbo'ing it.
 
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