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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellows.
I had a slipping clutch R&Red at a garage last week. I thought I'd come on and ask a question, since I never drove it with a decent clutch. The old one slipped some when the car was hot or driven hard. I babied it around for a thousand miles but it got worse so I took it in.
The mechanic put a new set in and a new flywheel.
He said the old one was shot, and I agree with that.
Anyway, the first drive I found the clutch engages sort of abruptly about a half inch up off the floor. The new plate has thick material so I guess as it breaks in, wearing some away, that engagement point will come up a little bit.
Do new clutches in these Tibs feel a little grabby?
The car is a 4 cylinder 5 speed.
Thanks for any replies!
 

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Did you do a dual mass flywheel to single mass flywheel conversion?
Did you remove the clutch delay valve?

I'm not sure about the 5 speeds, but my 6 speed felt exactly the same with a brand new clutch as it did with the old one. Although, mine wasn't replaced because it was slipping, rather it was replaced because I had the engine out for other work & did the clutch as preventive maintenance. Mine grabs at the very top of the pedal.

You may need to bleed the clutch system.
You may need to adjust the clutch linkage under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All I had done was have the clutch replaced with whatever it came with. It works fine, is fully disengaged when floored and doesn't slip at all. It just feels a little more sudden than the original, worn out clutch did. I'm not a hot rodder type.
I just drive it like a grandpa. I expected it to feel a little sharper than the worn out slipping junk it had.
The receipt says a "premium set" and a new flywheel. I expect it is OEM replacement.
The old one grabbed near the top, this one a half inch off the rug.
 

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I'd be concerned about the clutch not fully disengaging if it only lets go a half-inch off the floor, causing premature wear or failure. But I'm not sure what would cause that other than the clutch master cylinder linkage being out of adjustment. Maybe it's just an aftermarket pressure plate thing? I've only used Valeo clutches / pressure plates so I'm not sure if the aftermarket ones are different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Me, too. But thankfully it disengages better than the old one did. It goes into reverse nice and slick, can drop into 1st while still rolling without any notchiness. I was thinking it might just need a couple hundred around town miles to wear in the friction plate a little bit. That would move the engagement point away from the floor.
Thanks for the replies. I value all input from y'all.
 

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Ballpark, how much did the parts cost? A dual mass full kit would be very expensive, a single mass full is cheaper. Not positive on cost (others can chime in) but something like $1200 vs. $500.
For all the clutches I have done, if I'm doing "like for like" pedal travel and feel are pretty much the same before/after.
Where I have noticed differences is going from a "sorta OEM" to a much higher clamping force clutch. Most go from engaging near the top of travel to near the floor. Adjusting the push rod off the clutch pedal to master cyclinder restores things close to normal, but still engages closer to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The clutch set was $169 and the flywheel $115. Definitely not high end parts.
I told the guy to just change it out for stock. It's a 2005 4 cylinder. 17 years old, 137,000 miles. The clutch was original, he said.
Keeping costs down was important. He charged $675 for the labor. Total with taxes and transmission oil was $1038.
To me that's quite a lot of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
"Adjusting the push rod off the clutch pedal to master cyclinder restores things close to normal, but still engages closer to the floor. "
Is this an easy job or do you have to crawl under the dash board?
 

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Under the dash....not hard to do, just awkward and it sucks. Kneeling outside sometimes allows you to do it, sometimes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The mechanic offered to adjust it- then he foolishly tried to bleed the cylinders. Clogged.
No fluid would come out at all. He tried to use compressed air- he cleared the line and the slave bu the master is gunked up. Back in the shop.
: /
 

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I am willing to bet the pushrod is adjusted to the point it isn't allowing fluid to flow one direction. This is causing it to appear clogged. The pushrod is not a way to adjust where the clutch engages. It must be adjusted to allow fluid to flow in both directions at the appropriate setting.

For more information watch this video from 21ish minutes until the end. This explains everything about our hydraulic clutch and why pushrod adjustment has a narrow window in which it will work properly. It will also show you and your mechanic how to adjust it with a helper to the correct length.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
He had the push rod laying on the table. The black tarry mud in the master told the tale of 17 years with no maintenance.
The mechanic is a pro, I'm just the customer. I'm buying new master and slave. I want it fixed.
I'll watch the video, but I'm not doing the job,, ;)
 

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I'm sharing the video with you to share with your mechanic. Even the most experienced mechanics are tripped up by our pull type clutch and weird hydraulic system. I've had to explain this exact same detail dozens of times over the last 15 years to Tiburon owners who've taken their cars to "experienced mechanics" lol
 

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The master and slave cylinders fixed it. Took him about 10 minutes to bolt up and bleed.
Not a cheap repair, good luck with your Tib clutches.
Thanks for closing this out. I HATE dead end threads.....

I mean, I really HATE them......!!!
 
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