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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm the owner of skirt, my 2005 se with headers, cold air intake and some other stuff. Got her back on the road, but my alternator had a header tube resting against it. I tried to header wrap between the two and I used bailing wire to go around the wrap, my first stop after leaving my house she won't start.
 

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Does it crank?
Likely the alternator failed due to heat and didn't charge the battery. Now you have to charge the battery.
Jump starting it won't help since the alternator is dead.
 

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Did you dent the bank1 primary tube where it meets the header? Did you trim some of the plastic in the alternator? Did you wrap both headers including the bank2 header?

The alternator is fairly tough and can withstand a lot of heat. However the crank sensor is very sensitive to heat. You need to wrap your headers and wrap your cranks sensor for best results. If you check for spark I bet you will find you are lacking spark or it's very inconsistent. If the crank sensor is failing you won't have spark and headers are a common cause for killing crank sensors. Remember to buy only OEM brands like NTK or Siemens crank sensors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Charlie, when I was wrapping wire, I didn't disconnect my negative from battery and touched something while doing it and burn my fingers, then heading to work o noticed my engine light was actually off, then the first time I parked shut it off it wouldn't start when I was ready to leave, it will turn over just not firing
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Charlie, when I was wrapping wire, I didn't disconnect my negative from battery and touched something while doing it and burn my fingers, then heading to work o noticed my engine light was actually off, then the first time I parked shut it off it wouldn't start when I was ready to leave, it will turn over just not firing, so the car has plenty of power. Do u think I killed a sensor?
 

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OK, so "crank no start".
Most likely blew a fuse related to the charging system. Those are normally the bigger square fuses under the hood. Some are plug in, most are bolted in.

Ideally you meter all fuses under the hood and dash, replace whatever is blown. Metering fuses is preferable to just looking at them.

How long have you had the headers? It takes some time for the header heat to cook the crank sensor, but an old sensor is already dieing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All sensors are fairly new and I've only put a couple weeks of daily driving on the car. It keeps blowing the 10 Amp sensor fuse. I wrapped the header tube that was resting on the plastic of the alternator, and plastic welded rebuilt the spots that had been melted by the header. I put it all back together and started it, it ran for 2 seconds and died. When I checked the 10 Amp fuse, that is listed as sensor fuse, it blew again. Please help, any input would be appreciated is the sensor fuse for the crank shaft, cam shaft sensors, and o2 sensors. Speedo sensor?
 

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One of your sensors or harnesses to the sensor is shorting out if your SNSR fuse is blowing. Time to bust out your digital multimeter and troubleshoot every sensor.
 

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That's why I think you have a pinched harness. Try disconnecting your other 12v sensors/PWM devices. Your MAF and IACV use 12v that feed off the SNSR fuse. Your other sensors like the IAT, CPS, CAS and TPS are 5v sensors that may or may not receive power indirectly through the SNSR fuse.

If you can't find an obvious pinched or shorted wire you'll need to pickup a digital multimeter to trace the problem. You can't throw parts at this one until it goes away unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just woke up and got your message. Thanks chase.youve been helping me on and off now for almost a year now. Thanks for the help. I love this forum, and I really love skirt, Shes a good girl, and she gets cranky when she can't spread her wings, and fly down the road. I know skirt appreciates it as much as I do.
.
 
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