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Discussion Starter #87
nope my brother is a mechanic and i also took it to a body shop to have them look at it.. said it needs to be painted
From just the scrubby side of a sponge? Crazy, you must have gone to town on that. But yes, in the future there are "Scrubby" sponges that are used for removing tar. Also solvents that break it down really well. A great one out there that's easily found is Stoner Tarminator.

Also, I'd hit up a professional detailer in your area or post a pic here. I think the shop just wants to get money out of you.

Thanks for the walkthough!:3_nosthum
No problem man!
 

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What do you reccomend for cleaning the nooks and crannies out of the vents with?
For tight spaces like that I wet one end of a Q-Tip, use it for cleaning, and then flip it over and dry with the other end. If I'm really going all out then I'll take another Q-Tip, spray the end with interior detailer, and go over the area again to give it some shine.
 

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Nice write up! But, recently I tried removing spider-web scratches out of my hood because I could really see it at night under the lights, did the steps and went over it with clay bar, then I used rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then a paste wax and they're slightly gone but still there. Any tips on how to get them out permanently without using a buffer? I try to stay away from anything electronic with my paint, so I do it all by hand. Suggestions please and thank you!
 

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Nice write up! But, recently I tried removing spider-web scratches out of my hood because I could really see it at night under the lights, did the steps and went over it with clay bar, then I used rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then a paste wax and they're slightly gone but still there. Any tips on how to get them out permanently without using a buffer? I try to stay away from anything electronic with my paint, so I do it all by hand. Suggestions please and thank you!
Hand polishing can only do so much. It's going to take that speed and accuracy of machines to actually get your paint from semi flawed to perfect. The Porter Cable 7424XP is the best buffer for novices. You will not burn the paint with that buffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
For tight spaces like that I wet one end of a Q-Tip, use it for cleaning, and then flip it over and dry with the other end. If I'm really going all out then I'll take another Q-Tip, spray the end with interior detailer, and go over the area again to give it some shine.
They make specific brushes for that kind of thing, but believe it or not, I've been digging that Cyber-putty crap that you can find for a couple bucks at most auto parts stores.

Hand polishing can only do so much. It's going to take that speed and accuracy of machines to actually get your paint from semi flawed to perfect. The Porter Cable 7424XP is the best buffer for novices. You will not burn the paint with that buffer.
This pretty much. Hand polishing can work decently if you're using pads/applicators specifically meant for hand use, but a machine is going to be your best bet.

Unfortunately though, most of the time Spider cracking is cracks that go down to the surface the paint is adhered to and only a real re-paint will fix it.
 

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but believe it or not, I've been digging that Cyber-putty crap that you can find for a couple bucks at most auto parts stores.
Really? I've heard about that stuff but it looked like a joke. Maybe I'll pick some up and give it a shot. Thanks!
 

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^ Holy crap...that Cyber Clean stuff is AWESOME. I picked up a canister yesterday and it works really well. It's kind of creepy to hold but it does the job!
 

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I have heard waxing must be done right, is there any risks of trying to wax and claybar my car for the first time? Could I mess something up? I want to protect my cars paint and also give it as much shine as possible
 

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I have heard waxing must be done right, is there any risks of trying to wax and claybar my car for the first time? Could I mess something up? I want to protect my cars paint and also give it as much shine as possible
It is possible to damage your car's paint when claying but it's easily avoidable provided you follow a few common sense guidelines:

1) If you drop the claybar on the ground, throw it away. No exceptions.
2) When gliding the clay across the paint use plenty of lube and have a light touch. Too much pressure can mar the finish.
3) Check the clay often to ensure there are no large pieces of debris that could damage the paint. Provided that you thoroughly washed the car ahead of time this shouldn't be an issue, unless you've dropped the clay bar.
4) Make sure to fold and kneed the clay often so it has a clean surface.
5) Apply wax or sealant immediately after claying the car. If you wait or take it for a drive the paint will pick up additional surface contaminants.

As far as waxing goes, in my experience it's tough to do any irreparable damage to the paint unless you're using a high-speed buffer. Avoid direct sunlight and high temperatures if possible, and make sure that the pad or bonnet is clean. When I wax a car I typically change these out multiple times even if the pad/bonnet appears to be free of dirt.

Don't be afraid to clay and wax...you'll be pleased with the result.
 
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