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So I know the topic of "how aggressive can I go" with cams has been tossed around a lot, but I thought I'd post it up in here instead of starting a new thread.

I've got a set of cams I'm going to be sending in at the beginning of the year and am still undecided as to the grind. Obviously I don't want anything too aggressive that would require head work, and would need to be ok via cold starts during the winter.

I think I have it down to two different specs but wanted some other opinions on them.

.349/.220.110
or
.359/.220/.110

I was also considering going with cam gears and possibly retarding them by about 2deg if that would help.

Comments? Suggestions?
Bueller? Bueller?
 

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So I know the topic of "how aggressive can I go" with cams has been tossed around a lot, but I thought I'd post it up in here instead of starting a new thread.

I've got a set of cams I'm going to be sending in at the beginning of the year and am still undecided as to the grind. Obviously I don't want anything too aggressive that would require head work, and would need to be ok via cold starts during the winter.

I think I have it down to two different specs but wanted some other opinions on them.

.349/.220.110
or
.359/.220/.110

I was also considering going with cam gears and possibly retarding them by about 2deg if that would help.

Comments? Suggestions?
Bueller? Bueller?
For N/A the .349's are perfect and a great drop in set of cams and you wouldnt neccessarily need the gears, but if you want everything you can get out of them the gears and sprockets are great but you'll have to get them degreed :3_winkthu
 

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to add to your list there is also option of tri-flow cams from Colt Cams... they idle good and gain power thought all power band.
TRI FLOW cams for 2.7 delta

Primary intake Valve
218 duration
.365 lift

Secondary Intake
210 duration
.355 lift

Exhaust
218 duration
.365 lift
 

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Is there anyone on the boards that actually has the colt cams installed?
The theory behind them sounds interesting and all, but I can't say I'm really sold on the idea.
 

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If anyone needs Lash Caps which I ended up needing for my cams and you didnt order them when you ordered your regrinds through crower.

Ferrea racing has what you need. I needed the part C10008 for my .349 lift cams.
 

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A very mild cam, that is for sure. Most people go with the .340 Lift, 210 Duration, 110 Seperation which seems to be a very good cam regrind spec.
 

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Here are the camshaft oil seals that you will need for the install, or replacement of camshafts on the 2.7 GK.
These are OEM part numbers from Hyundai's catalog, so you can give these to the parts department, and get the correct parts.
Two 22144-39001/ Front and rear passenger side.
One 22327-35504/ Drivers side rear.
Two 22144-37101/ Drivers side front.
 

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I bought cams with these specs. (.340 Lift, .210 Duration, .110 Seperation) I'm wanting to install them, but my question is can I do it without having adjustable cam gears/sprockets? i.e. would I have any timing issues(car is my DD)? Or shoud I just wait till I get them to do a full install?
 

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Since Crower is located in San Diego, could I just show up with my cams for regrind and pick them up when they're done?
 

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I bought cams with these specs. (.340 Lift, .210 Duration, .110 Seperation) I'm wanting to install them, but my question is can I do it without having adjustable cam gears/sprockets? i.e. would I have any timing issues(car is my DD)? Or shoud I just wait till I get them to do a full install?
No you'll be fine. I have those spec cams in my car without cam gears and I don't have any issues, they've been installed for 3 years now.
 
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