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ok, i am looking to get a new tib since i just totaled mine. i had a custom magnaflow exhaust on mine before. it was basically a straight pipe from the cat back to 2 magnalfow mufflers. it looked like a stock exhaust pretty much. i loved the sound of it

now, i want to do something a lil different on my new tib once i get one. since i have hotshot headers already, i was thinking that i could just not use the y-pipe connector at the bottom of the headers and just make two 2.25" (or whatever the diameter of the header pipe is) straight pipes all the way back coming off each header. of course it would have to have 2 high flow cats (or a cat that has 2 inlets and 2 outlets), and then 2 mufflers (or a muffler with 2 inlets and 2 outlets), and maybe a x-pipe connector, and the 2 tips.

i just wanted everyones opinions on this idea. some problems that i havent figured out yet are:
1.how i would run the o2 sensors.
2.not sure if the pipes would fit in the exhaust channel under the car.
3. how it would sound.

and before everyone tells me that id be wasting money, i can get if done very cheap if i decided to.
 

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If you could get it to work, that'd be pretty sick. You'd likely have to stagger the cats though, as theres no way you could put 2 of them right next to each other in the exhaust channel. You could probably just run O2 sensors on one pipe, and leave the other alone, and the ECU wouldn't know what's up.

It'd probably sound okay, dunno for sure though.
 

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use the y-pipe connector at the bottom of the headers and just make two 2.25" (or whatever the diameter of the header pipe is) straight pipes all the way back coming off each header
Good Idea,,,but that'd be very difficult getting the pipes to fit under the car from the headers back,,,,,because
if you look under the car at the exhaust,,,,there is a specific "spot" for 1 pipe to run the length of the car and then split into two pipes after the rear axle.
 

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You also have to look at the lengths of the pipe as well. A longer pipe will make for more back pressure on one side. As well, in order to use both exit points at the rear of the car you are going to need to cross the pipes over or something in order to equal out the lengths. You also have to think that being a front wheel drive 1 side of the headers is closer to the front of the car than the other and you can't spin a pipe in a circle in order to make it of equal length, otherwise it defeats the purpose of paying for a new exhaust system.

I think the KORE exhaust (Not made anymore.) goes from the headers, to a single pipe cat, then splits into 2 pipes right after the cat and exits the back of the Tib using the stock exhaust exits. This is about as close to dual you will be able to get without cutting a new channel down the drivers side of the vehicle, which would be waaaaaay more costly than just getting an aftermarket exhaust system. The KORE, since it goes from 2 to 1 to 2 again will allow the pressure of the exhaust to even out so there won't be more pressure in one pipe than the other.

You could also I guess fabricate and exhaust system that goes from the headers to 2 cats and exits under the doors of the car, but then you would have no ground clearance. If you would even think of that, then well, instead of going under the car, just have someone fabricate straight pipes right off the headers and put them straight up through the hood of you car.

All in all a "True" dual exhaust would be next to impossible on our car without HEAVILY modifying the body. In the long run you might as well go and get an aftermarket made specifically for the car.

I hope this answers your true dual exhaust question.

I did do some research on a dual Flowmaster 60 Series setup for the Tib, you can find it by searching for Flowmaster in the N/A V6 section. In the end it would the same as, if not more costly, to fabricate a custom system than it would be to just buy something aftermarket.
 

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there is no point, esp. on a traverse engine.
and you have no clearence, even if you run the pipes side by side in the exisiting channel, with the cats you'd be too low.
sound? dang man that wold probably sound great. but I dont think its worth it, you'll never have room running the pipes under the drivers side.... unless you raise the car a little maybe. otherwise you'd risk scraping everytime you slam on the brakes.
 

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a true dual exhaust will put wayyyy to much hair outa the car itll prolly make u slower.
 

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qbytiburon said:
a true dual exhaust will put wayyyy to much hair outa the car itll prolly make u slower.
It's okay not to know an answer, just don't say anything. Obviously the pipes would need to be sized appropriately.
 

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ncsujrock said:
^^^^exactly, thats y i was thinking either 2" or 2.25", whatever the size of the header piping is.
Go with 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. I think 2.5 is the largest that you should need to go with out F/I. Otherwise you will get a lot of "popping" do to lack of efficient air flow when gearing down. That, to me anyways, sounds mighty awful.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i was thinking 2.25" because it would actually just be 3 cylinders running throught the exhaust rather than 6. and a lot of people have 2.25 or 2.5 when they have a single or jsut a stock style dual. so maybe even 2" would might be an option.
 

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I think hes serious. think about how small geo metro exhaust is... to keep the scavenging effect thats neccessary to get all the exhaust out of the cylinders on the exhaust stroke you would need it to be small. I say dont do this unless you go FI. it will just look silly with really small pipes coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
fleishelja said:
I think hes serious. think about how small geo metro exhaust is... to keep the scavenging effect thats neccessary to get all the exhaust out of the cylinders on the exhaust stroke you would need it to be small. I say dont do this unless you go FI. it will just look silly with really small pipes coming out.
well id have 4" tips no matter what
 

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you would have NO power untill well past the redline. you would need to completely redo the valve train so you could raise the redline to around 13K RPMS because you would have no exhaust velocity or scavenging untill around 6k or better if you go with dual 2"+ pipes. Yes if you are serious about a true dual i am serious about NO larger than 1.25" on each pipe. and you could throw the stock tips back on the end and make it look stock.

search for this. it has been discussed before.
 

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antiquity said:
you would have NO power untill well past the redline. you would need to completely redo the valve train so you could raise the redline to around 13K RPMS because you would have no exhaust velocity or scavenging untill around 6k or better if you go with dual 2"+ pipes. Yes if you are serious about a true dual i am serious about NO larger than 1.25" on each pipe. and you could throw the stock tips back on the end and make it look stock.

search for this. it has been discussed before.
Um no.... and by your complete lack of knowledge regarding the valvetrain, and what would actually be required for the motor to operate at 13k RPM, i'm just going to disregard anything technical you say.
 

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GTea said:
Um no.... and by your complete lack of knowledge regarding the valvetrain, and what would actually be required for the motor to operate at 13k RPM, i'm just going to disregard anything technical you say.

so you are telling me a stock valvetrain would withstand 13k revs?
 

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Thats not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying there is a much bigger picture than just how fast the valves can open and close.
 

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GTea said:
Thats not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying there is a much bigger picture than just how fast the valves can open and close.
Tell you what. Instead of adding to a thread that is not going in the direction that you want it... Take your car to a muffler shop, minute muffler or whatever and get them to hoist it and tell you what THEY think THEY can do about a TRUE DUAL setup. If it can be done, you are one up on us all. Then ask them about the pipe diameter. Get a quote and get back to us. Make sure you talk to an experienced employee there, most hopefully a manager.

I am really curious if the response you get from them and quote will be what we think it will be.

Doesn't cost you nothing but 10 minutes of your time and it cuts down on all the "He says, She says.".
 

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GTea said:
Thats not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying there is a much bigger picture than just how fast the valves can open and close.


yes. i know. like if you go with a 2"+ pipe you wont have any exhaust gas velocity untill you get WAY up in the rev range and you will need to, at the very least, rebuild the head, and pretty much everything else to handle the kind of indy car revving you are going to do.

To do a true dual on a motor this small you will have to size the pipes to roughtly pee shooter size.


You CAN do it, if would give you bragging rights and it might sound decent with the right mufflers, but it wont be cheap.
 
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