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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I have had a header on my car for quite some time. I have also been throwing that
P0133 (Sensor one bank one slow response) code for a while too. I checked all wiring, I never spliced the wires when I extended, and I have no leaks, because I just sealed them this past weekend. and I have replaced the sensor itself twice. I still have the code.

I included this diagram, and I apologize for the size. Could the positioning of my sensors be casuing this?

I have the primary in the bung that came with the header mid pipe, and
I extended the secondary after the cat.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

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I'm in the same boat bro
 

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lol, I have the same, but for both banks (v6) .. slow response sensor 1 ... check my thread.. I spent allot of money on the problem and tried allot of diff things.. gave up eventually... im about to unhook my CEL this weekend :)
 

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Bump for some insight?
Is this for the i4? Is your CEL light on?
I still have codes but my CEL isn't even on which is keeping me from passing state inspection....Really stupid.

Maybe the wires are messed up from extending it? Sorry I'm not to much help
 

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from what I got out of your diagram it looks like you extended your sensor one back to the flex pipe? this is causing the problem. O2 sensors work of voltige resistance. you are getting a code for slow responce because you increased the distance that the voltage is measured, in a sense you increased the resistance. why didnt you keep it in the bung in the header itself? This is how mine are set up. headers, bank one and bank two sensors one are both in the header just like stock ( this is the way it needs to be) sensors two are both extended back behind the high flow cat, these are the only ones you want to extend. you want to get your sensors one in both banks back to their stock placement or you are going to have issues, these play a role in your ecu controlling fuel trims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I extended the wires, but never cut into them so the resistance should not chamge. It was simply extended by peeling away the wire loom. Now if I put it back in the stock location, would it not be reading from only one cylinder? If I moved the sensor before the flex pipe would this help the problem, or does it have to be on only one runner from the header?

EDIT
The OBX header does not have a bung on the header itself, only on the midpipe after the flex tubing.
 

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I extended the wires, but never cut into them so the resistance should not chamge. It was simply extended by peeling away the wire loom. Now if I put it back in the stock location, would it not be reading from only one cylinder? If I moved the sensor before the flex pipe would this help the problem, or does it have to be on only one runner from the header?

EDIT
The OBX header does not have a bung on the header itself, only on the midpipe after the flex tubing.
thn the solution is to have a bung weldeded into the collector of the header, much the way it is on the stock header, and no its not a matter of reading off of a certain cylinder, it measures the amount of fuel that is not burnt passing out of your engine and sends a signal to the ecu wich adjusts fuel trims accordingly, it does affect the resistance because youve created a longer distance that the signal has to travel. the ecu was programed to read that signal in so many millaseconds, no its taking longer than the predetermaned parameters. hence why you are getting the slow resonce. that O2 sensor needs to be the length that it came, the o2s that are after the cat dont matter so much, cause all they are doing is saying "yep there is a working cat there" But the pre cat is working with your maf and ecu to determan fuel trims, its kinda important to leave that one alone and not mess with it. weld in a new bung in the collecter and get that sensor back to about its stock length and your problem will be fixed.
 

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Im fighting this problem as well.
It helps to hook up a cheepie A/F gauge to see whats going on.
My problem is that I've got low ish compression in cylinder 1 due to a leaky valve. I belive this is causing my CEL.
I never got this cel when my car was new, but now it seems to come on right away after being cleared.
check your compression, check your intake manifold for leaks and check your header for leaks / cracks / etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
jprophecy: Thanks I will go ahead and try the bung in the collector. That was going to be my next thing, I just wanted to get more ideas before I went that route.

Jdogg: I made sure there were no leaks, everything seemed alright, thanks for the help.

thanks everyone, I will try and keep you all up to par.
 

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jprophecy: Thanks I will go ahead and try the bung in the collector. That was going to be my next thing, I just wanted to get more ideas before I went that route.

Jdogg: I made sure there were no leaks, everything seemed alright, thanks for the help.

thanks everyone, I will try and keep you all up to par.
No problem, hope it works out for you.
 

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im throwin the same slow response with the first o2 as well i was thinkin maybe upping the guage of the wire to compansate for the distance i have 4 feet of extension basically and am using an 18 guage wire. wondering if bumping up the guage to 20+ will do the trick
 

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I extended the wires, but never cut into them so the resistance should not chamge. It was simply extended by peeling away the wire loom. Now if I put it back in the stock location, would it not be reading from only one cylinder? If I moved the sensor before the flex pipe would this help the problem, or does it have to be on only one runner from the header?

EDIT
The OBX header does not have a bung on the header itself, only on the midpipe after the flex tubing.
doesnt matter if you spliced into them or not, if you make a wire longer there is a longer path and more resistance for the voltage to flow through, hence why it is sluggish
 

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doesnt matter if you spliced into them or not, if you make a wire longer there is a longer path and more resistance for the voltage to flow through, hence why it is sluggish
Are you kidding me??????
We're not talking about adding 500,000 ft of wire here... there is no reason that splicing in 4 inches of wire will make an o2 sensor sluggish.
the problem is either a bad sensor, worng placement of the sensor or bad electrical connections...
 

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i know how to fix it it was explained to me buy the head tech that the o2 bung on the obx header is to far back so the o2 sensor does not get enough heat. im having an o2 bung welded into right where the pipes all meet. the o2 sensor wire will reach that position and should fix the problem i am doing mine in the next week or two and will post if it officiall solved the problem. i should know fairly soon if it did do to the fact that i drive a lot of mile to get out to school
 

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i know how to fix it it was explained to me buy the head tech that the o2 bung on the obx header is to far back so the o2 sensor does not get enough heat. im having an o2 bung welded into right where the pipes all meet. the o2 sensor wire will reach that position and should fix the problem i am doing mine in the next week or two and will post if it officiall solved the problem. i should know fairly soon if it did do to the fact that i drive a lot of mile to get out to school
Your probably right.
Also may want to think about wrapping your headers to retain the heat in the exhaust as well... that should help significantly.
 

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ok so i finally got a chance to get my header all set up and it works no codes wa hoo! if ur runnin an obx header dont use the bung on it for ur primary i got a new one welded in right where the pipes from the engine all meet. and yes u can use the stock o2 sensor it reaches and has a little bit off extra wire. so far after driving for bout 40 miles no light which mine usually would have turned on within 20 after clearing it good luck guys
 

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DTC #: P0133
Diagnostic item: O2-Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 / Sensor 1)
Suspect area: Front and rear HO2S connections reversed; faulty fuel delivery system; leak in intake system; leak in exhaust system; faulty MAPS ground circuit; faulty HO2S.

Note: if any misfire, purge selenoid valve, MAPS or HO2S heater codes are presented, do all repairs associated with those codes before proceeding with this trouble area.
 

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what i ended up doing is i had a bung welded onto my obx header, had a cat welded onto the flexpipe, and left the secondary where it was. got rid of the code and sounds 10x better, costs more than your guys suggestions but im deffinately glad i did it.
 
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