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Discussion Starter #1
I just recently got my 2008 Tiburon GT Limited 2.7L Automatic tuned with a FI/C 6. The FI/C 6 was connected with the plug n' play Boomslang Harness and not tapped into the stock harness. I have the NGM Sniper Stage 0 kit, DC Performance Exhaust, Injen CAI, 310cc injectors (Hyundai Sante Fe ones), bosch 190lph fuel pump, and one stage colder on the spark plugs with a smaller gap recommended by the tuner.

Now, it fixed the lean condition and now I'm getting a P0153 code for Bank 2 Sensor 1 having a slow response time. I figured it would be best just to change the sensor since it has 124k miles on it and I just grabbed one from the Hyundai Dealer. While replacing the sensor, I decided to fix the RED sensing wire on the Hyundai wiring harness because the original AFR gauge I was using before was recommended to "tap" into the sensing wire of Bank 2 Sensor 1, I now have the AEM UEGO currently so it has its own sensor. With that being said, I've been contacting my tuner and he continues to try adjusting the tune to see if this P0153 code is related to the tune but at this point I feel like it could just be the stock ECU going mad.

The freeze frame data shows the code popping on every time I'm at 60-70 mph at 2200-2800 RPMs and once at 48 mph at 2286RPMs.

I also have O2 voltage readings paused from bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 while I'm driving at 2500-2600RPMs at 60mph if this would help anyone distinguish anything. It seems bank 1 sensor 1 is more condensed while bank 2 sensor 1 is stretched out. It also looked like bank 2 sensor 1's voltage readings weren't going fully down and stopping mid way where bank 1 sensor 1 wasn't doing this.

If anyone has the proper resistance reading for the sensing wire of Bank 2 Sensor 1, I would be happy to check what mine is reading since I repaired that wire.

Any ideas on what the problem could be? It would be greatly appreciated for any input!
 

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Are you running the stock exhaust header/cats connected to the DC Sports Catback exhaust system?

The 07/08 ECUs are very strict with measuring O2 sensor performance. Any break in any signal wires or if they operate outside of their "normal" range too long will trip a CEL code.

Check for any leaks before the O2 sensors. Even a simple exhaust manifold gasket leak or the bolts not being tight enough could cause this issue.

How is the FIC wired in? Is it using the wideband for its input signal or tapping one of the stock sensors?

Do you have a datalog of your fuel trims at the time the code pops? We need to see what the Hyundai ECU is doing.

Remember the Hyundai ECU doesn't know what positive pressure is so its trying to always keep the tune for a non boosted engine. So for example if your cruising with low throttle the Hyundai ECU is going to try to maintain a stoich 14.7 AFR in closed loop for efficiency and emissions reasons. As soon as you go up a hill or give it slightly more gas, but not enough to go into open loop mode, its possible to hit positive pressure and piss off the ECU.

Also, especially with the NGM manifold, the banks don't get even air flow. In my experience with my sniper kit the rear bank runs 5-10% leaner than the front bank. I don't have any issues because I'm running a full standalone ECU. I could see the stock ECU, especially the 07-08 ECUS getting very angry and having to deal with this difference as well as seeing a MAF voltage reading saying the engine is at full throttle but the TPS is really low.

My suggestion would be to have the tuner run the TPS sensor through the FIC to force open loop at positive pressure. This will lower the threshold values the ECU is looking for and should fix any issues you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sorry, was going to work when you posted this so I couldn't get back right away.

Yes, the vehicle does have the stock headers/cats still, the 3rd cat, which was said to be "unmonitored" by the exhaust shop, has been removed because the DC Performance Exhaust was hanging slightly low because of it.

I did bring the car back to the tuning shop the first time for them to take a look at the car when the code popped up, there isn't any leaks that could be found.

The AEM UEGO is wired to the FI/C using the White 0-5V Analog Positive+ wire and the Brown 0-5V Analog Negative- Wire, and the AEM UEGO is using the wideband sensor that came with the kit. With that being said, I wanna say it's using the wideband for the input signal.


Freeze Frame Data when the P0153 code popped up shows:

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : -0.8%

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: -0.8%

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 1.6%

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: -0.8%

Engine RPM: 2600rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor: 65mph

Let me know if you need anymore information from the Freeze Frame Data. At the moment, the current Long Term Fuel Trim for Bank 1 and Bank 2 is -2.3%. I just checked before I left work to head home.


To confirm, you think that having the TPS sensor tapped into the FI/C would most likely fix this issue? Is there a specific spot for the TPS sensor to be tapped to the FI/C? If I'm using the Boomslang Plug N' Play harness for the FI/C 6 connection to the stock ECU, would the TPS sensor already be tapped into the FI/C?

Also, do you by any chance know what the value should be for the "Hi Voltage Bank 1" and "Hi Voltage Bank 2" should be set on the FI/C 6? The tuner wasn't sure and it has been changed while trying to figure out this problem. At the moment, "Hi Voltage Bank 1" and "Hi Voltage Bank 2" is set to 1.11 and I'm not sure if that could cause a problem if that's too high or low.

Thanks for the help so far, @dmdicks!
 

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Is the FIC tapped into or intercepting the Primary O2 sensors?

TPS tuning is more advanced and requires running the TPS signal through the other input output channel. Im not sure the boomslang supports this. Do you know what the MAF voltage is clamped at?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I know that he used the Boomslang harness to connect the AEM FI/C 6 and that there are analog positive and negative wires running from the AEM UEGO gauge.

I decided to call Boomslang myself and they state that the TPS sensor and O2 sensors are already tapped into via the Boomslang Harness connecting the stock ECU and the AEM FI/C 6 together.

I talked to my tuner, he just said that tuning the vehicle with the TPS isn't going to solve anything because that isn't the problem. I'm waiting on a reply back since he said he's gonna talk to a friend from AEM. Let me know what you think on this.

The MAF voltage is clamped at 5, I can send you a copy of the tune that is current right now if you would like just let me know.
 

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1)if you are not messing with the O2 voltage don't tap the sensors. That can mess with the signal wire resistance and cause the hyundai ecu to trip codes.
2) Clamping the MAF at 5 volts is not a good idea. Ideally you would figure what the max voltage is at 0psi and clamp it at that. That voltage depends on your altitude. Most people settle on between 4.40 to 4.60 volts for a clamp.
3) Forcing open loop under boost via modifying the TPS sensor forces the Hyundai ECU to not try and maintain a 14.7 AFR as well as lowers ignition timing. Both are best for boosting a NA engine. If your tuner does not know that then he's not very good.

The key to boosting a NA engine with a piggyback ECU like the FIC is to make the oem ecu think nothing has changed. You have to remember the stock ECU was not programmed for boost so if it freaks out and tries to pull too much fuel or add too much timing then you will grenade you motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Do you think I should just figure out the max voltage on the MAF at 0psi and change it?

Also, since I have already tapped into Bank 2 Sensor 1 before with my old AFR gauge, I feel like that could be the original issue. Even though I fixed the wire and soldered/shrink wrapped, the resistance may not match what was there and it's throwing the P0153 code. I've been talking to a master tech at a Hyundai Dealership and he said he would look into it and give me some information regarding how much resistance needs to be on the sensing wire so I can check it. Giving him a call on Monday since that's when he will be back in at work.

I haven't heard anything back yet from the tuner, I understand what you're saying about modifying the TPS sensor and forcing it to open loop but the tuner doesn't for some reason.

Possibly he will consider it after everything else fails, unless he completely bails and stops trying to figure it out. At that point, I'm kind of stuck at a dead end since no other place will tune my vehicle and I don't have much knowledge on the whole tuning process.
 

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....Also, since I have already tapped into Bank 2 Sensor 1 before with my old AFR gauge, I feel like that could be the original issue. Even though I fixed the wire and soldered/shrink wrapped, the resistance may not match what was there and it's throwing the P0153 code...
Unfortunately I think you are right about it here.
If no O2 settings have been adjusted in the FIC, it should not be an issue.

Can you snag a s/s of your settings screen as well as the O2 map from the FIC software for us?

I personally avoid using TPS manipulation for tuning. It feels like a band-aid fix to me. Proper calibration should be done with the fuel and O2 skew to get the two systems in sync properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unfortunately I think you are right about it here.
If no O2 settings have been adjusted in the FIC, it should not be an issue.

Can you snag a s/s of your settings screen as well as the O2 map from the FIC software for us?

I personally avoid using TPS manipulation for tuning. It feels like a band-aid fix to me. Proper calibration should be done with the fuel and O2 skew to get the two systems in sync properly.


I was able to determine the issue, and it was related to the timing adjustments being made on the tune. Getting rid of the timing adjustments got rid of all the CEL issues I was dealing with. I recently got the tib tuned again after installing the cooling system for the S/C manifold and so far no CEL issues; I'm up to 250hp now from 193hp:)

Wasn't trying to resurrect an old thread, but wanted to mark that the original issue has been solved (y)
 
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