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Discussion Starter #1
Well my car is in pieces in the driveway and it's 10:20PM. I am trying to wire in my MTX amp to power the 8" Diamond Audio sub I just replaced the OEM one with. I bought an adjustable line output adapter that can handle 2-60watts.

This is the one I have...

http://www.installedge.com/products/product_details.jsp?productID=1108


There are four wires going to the OEM amp from the HU. I cut the wires before the amp and wired in the line output adapter.

There is NO SOUND. I am guessing this is because I was supposed to wire the adapter in AFTER the OEM Amp...I figured the HU had an amp and that there would be enough power in the line before the OEM amp to get a signal to my new sub amp, but I guess not...
 

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does your amp come on? are you using rca's (I know but better to ask)? is the sub wired right? Is the amp set up right?
 

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yeh, more info is definately needed.

If you are using an aftermarket amplifier, DO NOT SPLICE OR CUT AFTER THE OEM AMP.
Splice it before the oem amp. Make sure you are splicing the correct wires. I spliced the wires going to the rear speakers.

Make sure your polarity is correct on both channels.

Delta's questions were good... answer those and someone can prolly help you.

~HG
 

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splice and solder your wires back together. All you have to do is put that line inverter where the plug is for the OEM sub, splice and slder the inverter their, and then run your RCA's to the amp. It is as ez as that. I dont know why you took apart your whole car for, not neccessary.
 

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i put in 2 rockford fosgate punch 800a2 amps and 3 infinity subs and i used a line out put conveter just take out you radio and tap into the rear speaker wires and plug in your line output converter plug in rcas do power and ground and enjoy real bass
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cool. Thanks guys! I think the problem is that there is not enough signal going through the bass wires from the HU to the stock amp, which is where I tapped in. I will cut into the rear speaker wires and see how that goes. Thanks for the help!
 

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well again... why dont you just take it from the sub in the trunk... then you dont have to worry about enough signal, and you dont have to run such a long wire either.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I could and would like to do that, but the converter I have is only good from 2-60watts. If I tap into the sub line AFTER the OEM amp, won't that be too much power for the converter? Although, now that I think about it, I wonder if the OEM amp even throws more than 60watts at the sub.

I am just afraid of doing this because of what HellaGil said...

If you are using an aftermarket amplifier, DO NOT SPLICE OR CUT AFTER THE OEM AMP.
Splice it before the oem amp. Make sure you are splicing the correct wires. I spliced the wires going to the rear speakers.
 

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All of the LOCs I've used haven't had any problems. I just hook both possitives and both negatives to one of the rear speakers. Run the RCAs and find a wire switched to the ignition key.

DO NOT CUT INTO IGNITION WIRES!!! As long as you test the wire with a DMM (digital multimeter) and get 0.00volts with the key off and when you cut the key on you get 12.4 or around there. that's a switched wire. You have to have a great ground and perfect connections for the REM/12V/Ground wires. don't forget to hook up the wires that were already together after adding the wires from the LOC.
Good Luck... Message me if you have any troubles.
 

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slobes said:
I could and would like to do that, but the converter I have is only good from 2-60watts. If I tap into the sub line AFTER the OEM amp, won't that be too much power for the converter? Although, now that I think about it, I wonder if the OEM amp even throws more than 60watts at the sub.

I am just afraid of doing this because of what HellaGil said...

The stock amp does not draw all that much power to the subs, JUST SPLICE their and you WILL be good.

or even better, get a set of CRA cables cut one end off and tap into the sub connection in the back. Then you dont have to worry bout that stupid LOC, you are already getting line out from the amp their.
 

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playtilithrtz said:
The stock amp does not draw all that much power to the subs, JUST SPLICE their and you WILL be good.

or even better, get a set of CRA cables cut one end off and tap into the sub connection in the back. Then you dont have to worry bout that stupid LOC, you are already getting line out from the amp their.

Agreed... that will work. Not a personal choice... I hate splicing RCAs. Good luck either way you go. I love having bass. :3_winkthu
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the input guys! I will be doing this after work today and will let you know how it goes! Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I spliced into the Rear Left/Right lines coming from the OEM HU just before they go into the amp. I got power to the amp and sound to the subwoofer except...it sounded TERRIBLE. Soooo muddy that the sub did't even sound like it was playing the same song....So I fiddled with the settings for two days and backtracked all my wiring to make sure the polarity was correct on every connection. This all held true. The amp I was origionally using was an older MTX amp that did not have protection capabilities. So because everything sounded horrible, I decided to switch out this amp with another, newer one. When I power this new one on, I get a protection light. Since I have never used this and got it second hand, I couldn't be sure it even worked. I then had my friend take his WORKING amp and throw it in my car. His amp's protection mode comes on toO!

My question: What could be causing the amp to go into protection mode with JUST the power, ground and remote plugged in? I have tried like 5 different ground locations and I get the same thing. I am using 8awg wire and a 60amp fuse (I believe). Could I be using the wrong fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!! I am dyin right now!!!! Hahahahahaha look at that picture above! Bump for the day! I need helpguys!
 

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Try changing your fuse... just because it looks like a good fuse the solder holding the insides together could have a hairline crack.

If you have two fuses in your amp that are 40 a piece you need an 80 amp fuse in the power line... pretty much whatever your amp's fuses are added together is the size you need in the power line.

Other than that... try switching out your remote wire... take either the possitive side or negative side of a speaker wire and use that for a remote. Make sure all connections are tight and secure.

If that doesn't work let me know... I had the same problem and it was my fuse with a hairline crack. They don't have to blow completely out to be a bad fuse. I see it all the time especially since I install at least two systems a day at work.

Good Luck!
 
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