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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought my 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT in 2003. I made a few small mods to it at the time, but since then, I have just done regular maintenance and repaired things when they have broken. Recently, it has been looking a little sad, and I have had the urge to fix it up to its former glory. This is the story of that process.

As required, here is a link to my album.

The post after this one will have numerous photos of my "starting point" (in July 2010). Here is a list of my goals and thoughts, and what I decided to do about them. This first post will be edited as I make progress. Black means that it has been done. Green means the part has been purchased, but has not yet been installed. Pale grey means that it has not been done. Pale red means that I decided not to do it. (I might change this color scheme later.)

Brands and prices will be mentioned in case someone wants to suggest a better or cheaper alternative (particularly from NT sponsors, whom I want to support when possible). So please make suggestions on alternatives for things I haven't bought yet.

Cosmetic
I happen to like black-on-black, so I won't be adding metallic or carbon fiber doodads anywhere, aside from replacing badges the car came with (and I won't be replacing all of those).
  • Remove stock spoiler (link)
  • Remove rear wiper arm and spray nozzle (link)
  • Remove "H" badges (link)
  • Tinted windows: 35% front/35% back ($150)
  • Silver vent rings (link, $11)
  • 2005 style headlights (Ebay, $366)
  • 2005 style taillights (Skeletron, $130)
  • Tinted taillights (local body shop, $150)
  • New 2005 steering wheel
  • New 2005 interior door handles
  • Custom badge on steering wheel
  • Remove plastic from engine compartment
  • Have entire car repainted ($5800)
  • 2005/2006 stock front bumper cover w/ fog lights, etc. (Amazon for bumper, Hyundai for misc. parts, $331, +approx. $600 for paint & bodywork)
  • Aluminum billet grill (Grille technologies, $108)
Engine

  • K&R 69 Series Typhoon Kit (CAI) (link, $265)
  • Throttle body coolant by-pass
  • 60mm big-bore throttle body ($175)
  • 60mm big-bore intake manifold (approx $175 incl. machining)
  • Importshark 2.7L Headers (link $260)
  • Borla cat-back exhaust (link, $600, + $80 installation)
  • MagnaFlow 94105 catalytic converter ($65 + $90 installation) (replaced with stock catalytic converter in 2017, to cut down on exhaust noise)
  • Lightweight flywheel (no idea what)
  • Polyurethane motor mounts (no idea what)
  • Ported & polished intake manifold (too expensive for too little benefit)
  • Intake manifold spacer (decided not to bother unless I upgrade the U&L intake manifolds)
Suspension

  • Arkspeedracing DT-P Coilover System (link, $1200)
  • Moog sway bar links
  • RRM front and rear strut bars (Nolfol, $160)
  • XXR 522 17x8" wheels, +48 offset, powder coated black ($525)
  • New center caps for XXR 522 wheels ($50)
  • Stainless steel brake lines (Techna-Fit, $99)
  • Ingalls engineering lateral link rear
  • Eibach Anti-Roll Kit (link, $450)
Electrical
  • Pioneer DEHX9600BHS CD Receiver (Amazon, $188)
  • Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 Punch P2 DVC 2 Ohm 10-Inch 300 Watts RMS 600 Watts Peak Subwoofer (Amazon, $84)
  • Replace stock antenna with retractable power antenna (link, $65)
  • Wire power antenna into TCS switch, (link, $14)
  • Korean multigauge (link, $110)
  • Relocate idiotic center brake light (Ebay, $10)
  • Hikari LED low beam (H7) headlight bulbs, CREE XHP50, 9600lm, 6000K "Cool White" (Amazon, $70)
  • Hikari LED fog lamp (9006) headlight bulbs, CREE XHP50, 9600lm, 6000K "Cool White" (Amazon, $70)
  • Red LED cabin lights (link, $13)
  • Red LED glove compartment light (Diode Dynamics)
  • White LED license plate lights (Diode Dynamics)
  • 2-way LED front turn signal bulbs (link, $114)
  • Red LED footwell lights (Diode Dynamics)
  • Red "Knight Rider" style grill LED
  • LED lights in gills
Quality of life
The passenger cup was the first mod I did!
  • Passenger side cup holder (link, $28)
  • Remove door chime (link)
  • Noico 80 Mil Foil & Butyl Mat Sound Dampening Insulation (Amazon, $35)
  • New leather upholstery (Costco/Roadwire, installed by Car Toyz in Richmond, VA, $1,369)
  • Relocate GPS mount (Sugru, $16.50)
  • Remove rear seats and stock deck, construct and carpet new rear deck
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
  • Remove "H" badges (link) DONE


And so it begins.

There is a fairly obvious "H" outline left on the paint. This is (I believe) because the paint under the "H" is fresh and new, while the paint around it has been subjected to eight Virginia summers and winters. It could probably be buffed out. I may or may not bother. It depends on how much it bugs me.

Eventually, the holes in the front will be filled and painted, along with the rest of the car. The back will get a custom "T" logo from ForceFedFlesh. Or I may just have those filled when I have the holes from the spoiler filled. As cool as ForceFedFlesh's badges are -- they are works of art, they really are -- I think I like the plain look in the back. I might buy one of his badges just to have it, and not even put it on the car.

Fun fact! I did not know until I took these photos that the black lettering on the back of my car saying "Tiburon" and "GT V" (the "6" is red) glowed like the sun when hit by a bright light (the flash on my camera, in this case). Nifty!

I don't plan to replace or remove that lettering, by the way. I have always liked the black lettering on the back, and the red "6".
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I cleaned the engine compartment.



The K&R intake arrived today. I am planning to hold off on installing it until I get the big bore throttle body. I do not like disassembling and reassembling things over and over. I might even wait until I get a ported and polished intake manifold and phenolic spacer, but I am not sure about that. It depends on what price I can get on an intake manifold set. If it costs too much, I won't be doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Removing the spoiler

Removing the spoiler and installing an idiotic third brake light. This is not really a DIY, but these are photos of each step.



Take a look at the screws holding in the windshield wiper motor -- two of the three screws were already completely loose. It was being held in with one screw!

I was going to disconnect the wiper pump, but that wound up being a nuisance, so I just pulled the fuse for the rear wipers.

Where the spoiler had been attached to the car, it rubbed lines through the paint and has started to rust.

The nylon plugs are a temporary measure. Sealing the holes properly and repainting the hatch would be $800, while doing that and the whole car would be $3500. Chances are, I will get the hatch painted first, since doing just that is so much cheaper.

Hooray! I wish I'd done this eight years ago.

I really like the LED brake light (I mean, I'd rather not have it at all, but if I have to have it, I like this one). So I plan to order another so that I have a spare when these burn out. About of the third of the stock LEDs in the spoiler had stopped working.
 

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LOOKS GOOD ,I miss my black tib some days and thanks for buying the strut bars you won't be disappointed
there some of the best ones ever made for the tib ,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
LOOKS GOOD ,I miss my black tib some days and thanks for buying the strut bars you won't be disappointed
there some of the best ones ever made for the tib ,
I may need some advice on the installation.

I have some Ark coilovers coming. Should I put the strut bars on at the same time as the coilovers?

(I wonder how hard coilovers are to install...)
 

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ya i would wait as you need to take of the rear belts to get at the rear struts any way the front is mega easy you can put that on right away two bolts .
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
vent rings and red cabin LEDs

I installed silver vent rings and the red LED dome lights. Everything looks good, although I wish the dome lights were a better match for the OEM orange/red LEDs.



Using the little magnets on the standoffs is brilliant, by the way. if it were me, I would have just used contact cement or something like that.
 

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I may need some advice on the installation.

I have some Ark coilovers coming. Should I put the strut bars on at the same time as the coilovers?

(I wonder how hard coilovers are to install...)

They're ridiculously easy to install. The adjusting them is a little more guesswork, though Optimummind can help you with that, he adjusts his regularly.

The front is 3 bolts on the strut tower on each side, then the brake line, and two bolts on the knuckle down where the rotor and stuff attach. The rear is a little more of a pain just because you have to remove the seatbelt retractors, and some of the trunk covers, but then its same procedure, with one extra bolt for the e-brake lines.
 

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Moonlighting Master
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
headlights and grill

I replaced the headlights and grill today. I considered painting the grill black. I may still decide to do that.

I thought it was particularly handy that the Hyundai engineers provided a place to put my coffee cup while I was working.



I installed the grill and the HID low-beam bulbs at the same time.
 

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Moonlighting Master
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I like where your car is going...keep it up :) The headlights look so much better. I remember when I put mine on...it's like night and day. I'd say keep the grill the way it is until you get more supporting mods...then you'll know whether or not you want to paint it. Let me know if/when you want to modify your headlights even further...I'll be happy to give you a hand.
 
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