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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How many amps does it take before the battery starts draining while car is running?

Im curious because i dont want to buy a new battery right now.

Like for example.. this amp does 25A x 3.. that means 75A total right? and will that drain it?

if so can a 1 farad capacitor remedy it?
 

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If thats the total fuse rating of your amp (75A) then you will be fine. The cap should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what about 30A x 6 ?
 

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The alternator does most of the electrical work when the car is running doesn't it? How much does the battery come into play?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
not 100% sure... youre right the alternator does do most of the electrical work since the battery is mainly used to start the car up.

but im not sure how many amps the stock alternator puts out. and how much a cap would come into play.
 

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teylix said:
not 100% sure... youre right the alternator does do most of the electrical work since the battery is mainly used to start the car up.

but im not sure how many amps the stock alternator puts out. and how much a cap would come into play.
It puts out 95A. You cant really go by the fuse ratings of the amps, cause the amp wont pull even close to that most of the time. You shouldnt exceed more than 40% or 50% of the alternator for your amps. A capacitor will help alot. The cap will be the first source of power that the amps pull from. As the cap discharges, it pulls from the alternator to recharge.

I run a Kenwood 933W Class D amp (2x30 fuse rating). And 2 Kicker ZR240 Class AB amps (both @ 30x2 fuse rating). Both Kickers are at 4 ohm stereo, therefore pulling half their potential wattage. I also have a Tsunami 20 farad cap. I have absolutely no power problems at all. The headlights do not dim whatsoever.
Make sure you use good wiring, and make a solid connection to ground. Also upgrade your negative battery cable. I replaced mine with dual 4 gauge grounds.
 

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Travis7s said:
The alternator does most of the electrical work when the car is running doesn't it? How much does the battery come into play?

99% of cars on the road do not use the battery while the car is running. Hell you could remove it once it's been started..
 

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ccagle2 said:
99% of cars on the road do not use the battery while the car is running. Hell you could remove it once it's been started..
If you exceed the alternator output, it WILL pull from the battery. Not something you want to happen however.
 

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I should add it would be pretty funny if the engine couldnt provide enough power to run the spark plugs.
 

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jasontib777 said:
If you exceed the alternator output, it WILL pull from the battery. Not something you want to happen however.

+1 :3_koning:
 

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Back in the day, I had a '93 Probe, and ran a big kicker amp @ 4ohm, and the system pounded pretty good. Me and my buddy decided to rewired the voice coils to put like a 1 ohm load on the amp. I cant remember, but it more than doubled the wattage. It pounded so hard, but then the airbag light and other random lights on the dash started blinking ramdomly, and the headlight would go completely dim when the bass hit. No cap used either. It was comical, but we had to wire it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
40-50% of alternator? you say it puts out 95A correct?

"run a Kenwood 933W Class D amp (2x30 fuse rating). And 2 Kicker ZR240 Class AB amps (both @ 30x2 fuse rating)"

basically class D amp is 30A x 2 = 60.. and the two class AB amps are both 30Ax2 = 60... doesnt that add up to 180A?

anyways im lookin at JL 500/1 (50A) and a JL 300/4 (40A) .. 90A.. too much?
 

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teylix said:
40-50% of alternator? you say it puts out 95A correct?

"run a Kenwood 933W Class D amp (2x30 fuse rating). And 2 Kicker ZR240 Class AB amps (both @ 30x2 fuse rating)"

basically class D amp is 30A x 2 = 60.. and the two class AB amps are both 30Ax2 = 60... doesnt that add up to 180A?

anyways im lookin at JL 500/1 (50A) and a JL 300/4 (40A) .. 90A.. too much?
No. The amps do not pull the max fuse rating. My Kenwood amp has a 60A fuse. It also has a visual indicator on the head unit that tells me how my current its pulling. At full output, its around 40-50A, but remember, thats 40 or 50A peaks when the bass hits..not constant. My highs are connected to the Kicker amps, and highs dont need as much current. So lets say that at full volume, my amps pull 50-60A. Thats where the 20 farad cap comes in. The immediate current comes from the cap, then the cap constantly recharges from the battery. The cap is like a buffer for the alternator. This setup is working fine for me.
 

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You're going to be fine with the 500/1 and 300/4! Hell I run a 1000/1 and a 450/4, which is basically double your setup and my lights dim at full volume, but I don't drive everywhere with it like that. The driving volume I listen too, the lights do not dim a bit, and I only have 2 farads, I have a 10 farad bank, just haven't put it in yet!
 

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jasontib777 said:
It puts out 95A. You cant really go by the fuse ratings of the amps, cause the amp wont pull even close to that most of the time. You shouldnt exceed more than 40% or 50% of the alternator for your amps. A capacitor will help alot. The cap will be the first source of power that the amps pull from. As the cap discharges, it pulls from the alternator to recharge.

I run a Kenwood 933W Class D amp (2x30 fuse rating). And 2 Kicker ZR240 Class AB amps (both @ 30x2 fuse rating). Both Kickers are at 4 ohm stereo, therefore pulling half their potential wattage. I also have a Tsunami 20 farad cap. I have absolutely no power problems at all. The headlights do not dim whatsoever.
Make sure you use good wiring, and make a solid connection to ground. Also upgrade your negative battery cable. I replaced mine with dual 4 gauge grounds.
+1 But you don't want to overkill 30x6 may be a bit much
 
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