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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1. I'm installing my SDS, but RIPP did not give directions on how to change injectors and plugs. Can this be done after the blower is already mounted or will I have to undo a bunch of work? I have the oil pan tapped and the blower brackets on as of now. Just wondering if I can wait until the end to change plugs and injectors?

2. What gap have you SDS guys been using for your plugs?

Thanks.
 

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shady said:
1. I'm installing my SDS, but RIPP did not give directions on how to change injectors and plugs. Can this be done after the blower is already mounted or will I have to undo a bunch of work? I have the oil pan tapped and the blower brackets on as of now. Just wondering if I can wait until the end to change plugs and injectors?

2. What gap have you SDS guys been using for your plugs?

Thanks.
Just hit me up on YM... :2_wink:
 

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pass dat....
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Well to change injectors and plugs you are going to have to pull off the upper intake manifold......
 

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Not to be an @$$ or anything but u dont know how to change plugs and ur installing a supercharger kit! U've got balls!!! I can diffinatly appriciate that. DZ might have told you this already... but ur gonna have to take off the Intake manifold(the aluminum box with 6 runners leading to the engine). You dont have to take it completly out, but it makes it a hell of a lot earier on urself. If you dont take it out, theres gonna be alot of fandangeling it. Oh yeah and you should get new gaskets too! (throttle body gasket and the one between the upper and lower intake manifold). If u haven't gotten the plugs yet disreguard if they say its a marine plug. the ones in the RIPP directions are correct; NGK copper something or other. For some reason ive had 2 places say it to me. Mabye because its colder then normal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Carrera1984 said:
Not to be an @$$ or anything but u dont know how to change plugs and ur installing a supercharger kit! U've got balls!!! I can diffinatly appriciate that. DZ might have told you this already... but ur gonna have to take off the Intake manifold(the aluminum box with 6 runners leading to the engine). You dont have to take it completly out, but it makes it a hell of a lot earier on urself. If you dont take it out, theres gonna be alot of fandangeling it. Oh yeah and you should get new gaskets too! (throttle body gasket and the one between the upper and lower intake manifold). If u haven't gotten the plugs yet disreguard if they say its a marine plug. the ones in the RIPP directions are correct; NGK copper something or other. For some reason ive had 2 places say it to me. Mabye because its colder then normal?
I'll try not to take that as an insult. When I bought the car I didn't even know how to drive stick. Since then I've done IHE, tuner, zt-2, stereo system, and now the blower, J&S, and alky injection. I learn as I go. My questions are probably littered with ignorance/stupidity but I'm just making sure on things, so the help is greatly appreciated. Please be patient with me, I'm into medicine the tiburon is a hobby. But, I am extremely jealous of all your guys' knowledge.

I will grab new gaskets. I'm thinking of getting a spacer for the intake manifold, thus I won't need a new OEM gasket.

As for the plugs. I have NGK Iridium IX's that are of the right temp range. Will these work if I gap them to RIPP's specs?
 

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I think its great that ur learning as u go.. I thought that this pretty much was ur first thing... so I was a little nervous for ya.

No, you need to get some NGK copper plugs. What most other plugs are, is the electode is copper and the rest of the outside is plated with the precious metal. In theory it's not good with all the high-temps and boost presure. The plating could split apart and well thats just not good for internals. The only reason that people use em is because they last longer, the iradium ones being the longest... and they also has the tighest metal splitting temps soposibly. As for the other then solid copper making a better spark.. yeah i think thats all hype. The standard solid coppers are the way to go, cheep(2.50ish per plug), no worring
about metals splitting, and produce the best spark for the year.

Its like a half-life(medical term right? :) )though. The coppers degrade quicker then the others. Ur sopose to change em once a year(depending on who u ask) under boost. Some will even say like 20,000 miles. I'd stick to a year or so though.

This is what RIPP and NT will recomend:
BKR5ES-11 (stock heat range) <-- DO NOT USE, this is the stock copper equivelant.
BKR6ES-11 (one step colder)<--usualy used by kit holders
BKR7ES-11 (two steps colder) <-- I use these and have had great luck on stock internals thus far.

Gap is .24-.25ish for s/c

Another thing is NGK is flopped with other brand spark plugs on the temp scale(how easy it is to disapate heat). U'll notice from above that the difference is the 5,6,7. 7 being the coldest. Other companys the scale is flopped. The hotter the plug the more crap cooks off of it as well. Thats why you don't want to go too cold of a plug.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate all the help. Oil pan is done along with the return line. I popped the intake manifold and valve covers off. Those are going to be powder coated tomorrow. I'll pick up the plugs on tuesday.

Now to the fuel injectors. Looks like I can loosen up the fuel rail, disconnect the wiring harness, and they should pop right out. Is there more to it than this?
 

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Mental Taste said:
BKR7ES-11 (two steps colder) <-----Worked best for me too...
That's what RIPP recommends... but I still argue that.:3_yes:

The stock gap on the BXR7ES-11 plugs is like .41 or something, and as Carrera said... they need to be regapped to around .25 or so. But technically, the stock gap on any plug should NOT be changed more than +/- .08 or so, or else it causes the electrodes to become unparallel to one another.

Anyway - I used NGK BXR7E plugs (same basic thing), which have a stock gap of .28 (I think). All I had to do was check the gap and install them at stock gap. They work great!!
 
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