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Hi guys sorry i haven't posted yet i have had family over for the last month, I have started making a schematic of the wiring and parts needed but i will start off talking about what i have done.

So I have a 05 Tiburon Base model manual A/C Controls same problem as everyone else A/C lights blinks some times it works on one speed then not another,and ground wire from switch getting hot, and Melted switches. So i read all the previous posts and tried different ideas and trouble shooting.

First i purchased a brand new motor measured the ohms on the motor coil new motor was .4 Ohms, The Old Motor in the car also measured .4 ohms. Then I purchased a new Blower Motor Resistor compaired the ohm readings for each speed except for #4 because it doesnt run into the resistor all where good. The control switch was new it was the third one replaced by the dealer. So I began to think i have an 05 Sonata turns out that its a different switch and the wiring is alot thicker gauge. So the fuse for this system is 30 amps and the wiring in the tib is very thin and on top of that when you run multiple wires together in a harness the hotter and less effective the wiring becomes. So either the switches are not built to handle the load or the wiring gauge is to small.

So i took care of both at the same time, but i didnt want to cut or remove any factory wiring just incase Hyundai comes out with a recall ( Yeah Right!!) i could take my system out and it would be back to factory So What I did was make my own harness ALL 10 Gauge stranded wire and ALL Gold Plated Spade connectors which are crimped on then soldered. it is bassiclly the same system that hyundai has in ther schematic but instead each speed has its own relay to handle 30 amps and an all new grounding system. This moves the power to equipment that can handle the load and the blower switch now only switches on milliamps, I have had the setup running for about 1 month now and it has so far work great no head buildup and if a relay burns out down the line i rather spend a couple bucks on a realy rather a bunch of expensive blower switches. What would make it better whould be if i could get the original connector with crimps for the Blower Motor Resistor , Blower Motor ,and the Blower switch that way it would all snap in but i havent been able to find them online i dont have any part numbers, Most all The system is built out of the car then installed in about a half hour in the car.

So i will finish the schematic , take some pictures and post again very soon. Thank You guys
 

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Still hoping on pictures of this setup. I think from the sounds of it, all that was done is the wiring / harness were upgraded from thinner wire to a 10gauge bundle with new spade connectors. If so that should not be too difficult to do, and the only real PITA will be tracing the original wires back to the fuse box - or is there another connector there?
 

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Did yours continue to heat up? I replaced mine after witnessing every day the amount of heating up I thought the problem was fixed by replacing the console but apparently the wiring is the issue.
 

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I finally got everything taken apart, only to see that the switch was melted. The problem is that I could not open it to take it apart without breaking the melted side. As it is it came darn close. So instead I will spend the $90 to get a new one, and then I really have to look into building this new harness.
 

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How do I see the pictures?
Really old thread....... likely the picture links are lost for multiple reasons. The descriptions are probably good enough to get you through.
 

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In case anyone cares, it's been at least six years since I replaced the whole AC control unit (the thing with the three knobs) with a used one that wasn't melted. I haven't turned the fan up past 1 since then (okay, I did put it on 2 a couple of times when it was crazy hot, but only for a few minutes until the car cooled down), and there has been no sign of the switch melting again.

I do hope to do some work on the switch to give each speed its own relay, some day, so that I can safely turn the fan up to 4. Some day.

Until then, staying at 1 seems to prevent the melting.
 

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Okay this is on a 2003 tiburon if you are lucky like I was you probably recharged your ac. However your compressor is now shutting on and off. Well took me 30 minutes but my way of fixing this is you have to drain your freon. Yup drain it !!! So look for your cable poke it with a needle nose pliers and have your car on with ac at max and start draining it didn't do anything to me just don't breath it in. It's like removing air from your tire to the correct psi. Ok question how do you know when it's enough? Welll your compressor will stop turning on and off and stay on!!!!! Worked for me. This is my experience that I dealt with so if it help glad I could help
 

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I made some 'adjustments' to the wiring on this schematic.

The melted plastic is caused by high resistance connections on relatively high amperage switches. The full amperage of the fan motor is ran through the blower switch, which heats up the contacts inside the switch, and then that heat melts the plastic.

What I've envisioned is moving the high amperage connections to dedicated relays. 4 30-amp relays are needed, one for each speed.

To install these relays would involve cutting the wiring harness that goes to the blower switch. Another cut would need to be made at the "Blower Motor Relay"(referenced in Image 91 of the Service Manual) for the coil supply voltage for the relays.

I'll be doing this mod, as I said, after the clutch is fixed. A more in-depth guide will be uploaded afterward.

EDIT:
I updated my design with a better ground location, and suggested wire size for 12V @ 30amp.
It should be worth mentioning that my mod will not fix an already-melted blower switch. This mod is to ensure that the new switch won't melt, too. (AND IT WILL)
 

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Excellent. I have already bought switches for this purpose, myself: I bought them two years ago (how time flies!). My main problem is that I don't know where I should put them.
If you're talking about the relays - I'd consider placing them near the blower motor resistor, under the passenger dash. 4 of the wires that connect to the selector switch go directly to the blower motor resistor. These four wires would be cut and wired to the new relays. Anywhere along that path that's accessible but protected will be ideal, since even new relays can fail. You can't punch yourself if you need to replace a relay.

EDIT:
I would suggest getting a "relay box" - similar to this: https://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/288/288-h84988001.jpg
This would allow you to protect the relays, as well as replace them individually if the contacts in a relay burn out.

One new wire will need to be spliced into pin 3 of the existing blower relay connector, and ran to the new relays. Since the factory blower relay is next to the blower motor under the passenger side, near this location would be ideal.
 
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