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Nice job bro'. I'm not hijacking this thread, just posting a solution for a similar problem I had.

I had a similar problem. The blower worked at all speeds but the A/C compressor started to come on/off (light blinked) at 4th speed. Then started doing that at 3rd speed. When it started doing that at 2nd speed, I checked the wiring diagram and noticed that with the A/C button on and the blower at any speed, a ground signal is fed to the control unit (behind right button). What I did was to ran a supplemental ground to the signal fed to the control unit. Everything went back to normal, cold air at any blower speed. 6 months later and still working.

Hi
I am helping my son with his Tiburon. He has AC only on fan speed 2. On setting 3, the AC compressor cuts in and out while the AC LED flickers . On setting 4, the AC light goes out and he just gets humid air blowing in.
I am trying to understand your fix. If I am reading correctly, you are saying that you added (soldered?) a wire from terminal 87 (pin #1?) in the temperature dial connector (for selecting cold vs. hot) to the wire leading to terminal 86? Is that correct? Also, did that prevent the car from blowing heated air when needed? Thanks for additional explanation and help!
 

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I am helping my son with his Tiburon. He has AC only on fan speed 2. On setting 3, the AC compressor cuts in and out while the AC LED flickers . On setting 4, the AC light goes out and he just gets humid air blowing in.
What I suggest is getting a new AC control unit, and then never turn the fan higher than 1. I did that several years ago, and mine is still working.
 

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What I suggest is getting a new AC control unit, and then never turn the fan higher than 1. I did that several years ago, and mine is still working.
I just started looking for a new AC control unit, just because I was curious how much they are now. I bought my last one a little over 10 years ago for under $50. New ones are now going for $300 or more, and even used ones are around $150. Wow.

However, it has been over 10 years that I replaced mine, and by never turning the fan higher than "2" (and usually keeping it on "1"), my switch has not melted again in all that time. So I definitely think my "fix" (buy a new climate control module and don't turn it up past "1", or maximum "2" for short periods) has stood the test of time.
 

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What I suggest is getting a new AC control unit, and then never turn the fan higher than 1. I did that several years ago, and mine is still working.
Thanks for your reply. When you refer to a new AC control unit, are you referring to the all-in-one unit that has a circuit board in the housing with the air output selector (defrost, dash, floor, etc), fan speed controller, temperature selector, and AC/Recir/Defrost buttons? I have read other posts that say the problem is in the fan speed controller, but I have tried a new fan speed controller and swapped the blower motor resistor with the same issue. I'm not sure if your suggestion is the all-in-one unit or referring to the control circuit board that mounts behind all the switches?
 

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Thanks for your reply. When you refer to a new AC control unit, are you referring to the all-in-one unit that has a circuit board in the housing with the air output selector (defrost, dash, floor, etc), fan speed controller, temperature selector, and AC/Recir/Defrost buttons? I have read other posts that say the problem is in the fan speed controller, but I have tried a new fan speed controller and swapped the blower motor resistor with the same issue. I'm not sure if your suggestion is the all-in-one unit or referring to the control circuit board that mounts behind all the switches?
I am referring to the unit that has three knobs and three buttons on the front, and two (if I remember correctly) plugs on the back.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon 5 speed
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Nice job bro'. I'm not hijacking this thread, just posting a solution for a similar problem I had.

I had a similar problem. The blower worked at all speeds but the A/C compressor started to come on/off (light blinked) at 4th speed. Then started doing that at 3rd speed. When it started doing that at 2nd speed, I checked the wiring diagram and noticed that with the A/C button on and the blower at any speed, a ground signal is fed to the control unit (behind right button). What I did was to ran a supplemental ground to the signal fed to the control unit. Everything went back to normal, cold air at any blower speed. 6 months later and still working.

If I'm reading this correctly you just cut the wire from behind the controller in the dash and then ran another ground to it? My AC shuts off randomly and I have to turn the dial and then back again to get it to kick back on but it shuts off the AC not the blower, also I went to check to see if I had heat and my car does not blow heat so I need to figure out what's causing that too
 

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Had the same problem with the blower not running on high speed last summer. Took the wires out of the connector block and the female terminal on the black wire had been overheating and didn't fit snug on the terminal on the fan switch. Squeezed it to tighten the fit and the fan worked good all last summer.

It got warm enough to start using the AC again and after a few days the old problem came back. Checked the terminal ends and tightened them up, no luck, AC and Recirc switch lights would blink when switching from fan speed 3 to 4 and sometimes wouldn't come on at all. Sometimes the blower would run on high but no cooling, AC and Recirc switch lights wouldn't come on. This thing is really screwed up this time. I took the switch apart and cleaned it, no fix, tried another switch, no fix.

I took the wires out of the connector block again and plugged them directly on the fan switch. Turned the AC on and on high speed the black wire sometimes would get hot and the AC and Recirc lights blink and sometimes the blower would run on high and sometimes no high speed. Wiggle the wire and the symptoms always show up. The copper on the black wire crimp looked like it had gotten pretty hot more than once where the terminal end was crimped on it. I was ready to cut off the factory terminal ends and replace them with some better quality ones except the terminals I had on hand wouldn't fit in the factory connector block. I decided to try soldering the factory crimp connections. Got it done and plugged everything up and the fan works good now on all speeds, no hot wires and no blinking switch lights at all when going to high speed.
This is the right solution. That black wire was the issue in my car as well. For anyone else that wants to try this fix...to get the wires out of the connector block, you just need to insert a very small/thin flathead screwdriver into the back (same side as the wire) of the connector and push it in pretty hard. Leaving the screwdriver inserted, you should be able to pull the wire out.

I decided that instead of soldering the factory crimp connector, I just left that disconnected and got my own thicker gauge wire and ran it straight back to one of the big grounding screws (there are a couple easily accessible options) behind the panel. I had to do a little modification to my own crimp connector to get it to fit into the connector block, but now everything works great! Send me a message if you'd like photos of what I did or have any questions. Depending on the state of the blower switch, you may need to get a new one (easy to find on Amazon for about $20) in addition to fixing the overheating connector.
 

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2005 GS
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I just started looking for a new AC control unit, just because I was curious how much they are now. I bought my last one a little over 10 years ago for under $50. New ones are now going for $300 or more, and even used ones are around $150. Wow.

However, it has been over 10 years that I replaced mine, and by never turning the fan higher than "2" (and usually keeping it on "1"), my switch has not melted again in all that time. So I definitely think my "fix" (buy a new climate control module and don't turn it up past "1", or maximum "2" for short periods) has stood the test of time.
Thanks for the suggestion and pricing info. Yes, that is quite pricey. I was thinking that might be something to try (replacing the whole unit including the circuit board), but the temperature and direction vent controls were working, so it was just the fan/AC part.
 

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2005 GS
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Thank you! I did not know that you could just buy that part. (y)
I did try replacing just the blower switch, and the strange thing was that a used replacement blower switch worked for a day or two and then developed the same problem. Then a brand new Hyundai blower switch did the same thing! So, I went back to the other posts about the bad connections in the wiring harness and decided to pursue the loose/bad ground connection possibility. After once again disconnecting the plastic connection box to the blower switch, I was able to get some flux and then hot solder to drip down into the black ground wire connection (at the crimp area going into the connection box from the wiring harness) as well as tightening the wiring receptacle box female connections so the male blades were held securely. Problem finally solved!!
 
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